Is 0.60 an alright gauge for a g string??

boglej2 · #1 09-26-2008, 10:23 AM

jus chanigng my strings now, asked for a heavier g than normal, got a .60 g, bt it seems very tight on the necK?

Roland777 · #2 09-26-2008, 10:32 AM

Unless that - for some alien reason - is specifically what you asked for, I can't think of anyone in their right mind who would use a .060 for a G on a standard scale bass.

4-string · #3 09-26-2008, 10:34 AM

.60 is a D-string in my book.

Just Thumpin' · #4 09-26-2008, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boglej2

jus chanigng my strings now, asked for a heavier g than normal, got a .60 g, bt it seems very tight on the necK?

That is a HUGE g-string. I use a .40 (as part of a 40-60-80-100 set)! I have seen some as high as .50, but 60? No way...

boglej2 · #5 09-26-2008, 11:30 AM

right i knew the people that worked in music shops in dublin weren't the smartest bt thats a joke, i want a heavy string so i'll be able to get more from my g string, low output on stingrays an all that, what would be damaging about having this gauge on my bass?

JanusZarate · #6 09-26-2008, 12:00 PM

.60 = excessive for G string. I'd recommend NOT using it.

It does put more tension on the neck than is necessary. I wouldn't go as far as to call it irreversibly damaging, but more importantly, it's NOT going to be a friendly string to play on.

Change it!

And regarding the "weak G" problem of your Stingray... I hear this quite a bit, but there's a lot you can do beyond getting a single, extra-heavy string. Adjust the pickup height to favor the "G" side instead of the "E" side (you could either raise the G side OR lower the E side). You may also need to look into getting a fresh setup done on your bass - the G string might be set higher than it should be, and pickup height can't really alleviate that.

I've learned to set up my own Stingray, and I haven't had the "weak G string" issue that some people complain about.

Joe Gress · #7 09-26-2008, 12:12 PM

.60? Holy crap dude!

That's a bit much. Unless you plan on tuning down a step or two, that would definitely put to much tension on the neck and cause it to warp after a while.

As for the weak output, like boo said, raise the pickups.

Funny thing is, I had to lower my MM style pickups because they were way to powerful for the playing I'm used to.

ibnzneksrul · #8 09-26-2008, 01:16 PM

I'm surprised it didn't break just tuning it up to a G.

mjolnir · #9 09-26-2008, 01:25 PM

Uy... Try .50 before you go sticking another one of those D strings in the G slot again...

**cheezewiz** · #10 09-26-2008, 01:34 PM

I concur with the rest. .60 is way too heavy for a G. I prefer a .40 and never use higher than a .45.

Alvaro Martín Gómez A. · #11 09-26-2008, 01:55 PM

.45 is the standard G string for me. A .60 is a light gauge D string.

gr8fulhiker · #12 09-26-2008, 02:05 PM

Way to big, it'll chafe somethin' fierce.

GeoffByrne · #13 09-26-2008, 02:34 PM

At least you spelled 'gauge' correctly!!

Slax · #14 09-26-2008, 02:38 PM

I'm using .45's on my basses for the G string. I used to use .50s for extra stiffness... .60 seems a bit much though.

I'd say, if you're looking for a high gauge G string, try going from lower and then to higher until you're comfortable.

FenderP · #15 09-26-2008, 04:50 PM

It's not excessive at all. Two of my basses are strung .75 - .100 - .115 - .135, and most of my basses are strung .50 - .75 - .95 - .110. So for me, .60 on G is no big deal and I'd welcome it.

JanusZarate · #16 09-26-2008, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FenderP

It's not excessive at all. Two of my basses are strung .75 - .100 - .115 - .135, and most of my basses are strung .50 - .75 - .95 - .110. So for me, .60 on G is no big deal and I'd welcome it.

At those gauges, you MUST be either drop-tuning significantly or have a 4-string set up for BEAD tuning.

Some basses are optimized for BEAD tunings, and will take the lower strings of a 5-string set easily. The necks are reinforced differently for best results. On a typical neck, it's a bad idea to use those same strings for EADG tuning. When you drop-tune, the gauge is offsetting the low tension so the strings aren't too floppy. If you use BEAD strings and tune to BEAD, then there really isn't a problem (not a big one, anyway). But those same strings for EADG? That'd be nuts.

The important things to note are the circumstances. We don't know if he's drop-tuning his G-string (and he probably isn't). If he's not, it's not good for the neck. Plus, it will have a terribly different feel than the others, if the others are a more "normal" gauge.

FenderP · #17 09-26-2008, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MysticBoo

At those gauges, you MUST be either drop-tuning significantly or have a 4-string set up for BEAD tuning.

...

The important things to note are the circumstances. We don't know if he's drop-tuning his G-string (and he probably isn't). If he's not, it's not good for the neck. Plus, it will have a terribly different feel than the others, if the others are a more "normal" gauge.

Nope. Mine are all strung E to G.

Only one of my six basses (custom - Rob Allen Deep 4) was reinforced on the neck (it's one of the .75 - .135 ones). I use the thick strings AND high action on all of my basses with NO adverse effects on my neck. The pic is the action on my P. It's been that way since '88, and currently the bridge is raised even higher with metal plates to get that action.

The Rob Allen Solid 4 handles it with ease ... so I don't know what people's problems are with thick strings, high action, and necks.

JanusZarate · #18 09-26-2008, 05:11 PM

Higher action, too? Interesting.

IMO, that'd be a very difficult bass for me to play. If the neck can take it (which it should), that's cool, but I couldn't play with that kind of tension or action.

I couldn't imagine it being too easy to switch to a lower gauge now, though. Nut aside, that's a lot of truss rod adjustment!

FenderP · #19 09-26-2008, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MysticBoo

Higher action, too? Interesting.

IMO, that'd be a very difficult bass for me to play. If the neck can take it (which it should), that's cool, but I couldn't play with that kind of tension or action.

I couldn't imagine it being too easy to switch to a lower gauge now, though. Nut aside, that's a lot of truss rod adjustment!

I can't - and never have been able to - stand basses with low action or tension. The higher, the better. Over the years my action has gone up, not down. To each his or her own though. Below is a pic of my raised P bridge. The Solid 4 gets that height and tension without needing to raise the bridge. The Deep 4's bridge was raised a bit. The Takamine TB10 is a different beast and handled the .75 - .135 just fine.

My only bass with semi-low action is the MUstang, and that bridge was raised as well (not as much as the P).

My new (well old) '76 fretless P will look like the regular P when all is said and done.

They've never really tweaked any truss rod on any of my basses, to be honest. It just works.

I may wind up stringing my P ultimately with .75 - .95 - .110 - .125 (the RS77 thick flat which is technically supposed to be a B).

newbold · #20 09-28-2008, 01:21 AM

hey boglej2 - are your strings tapewounds?

if they're tapewounds then forget what these guys say.

If they're tapewounds then don't ever ask their advice because they don't have the right answer for you and will most likely leave out the most obvious piece of the puzzle.

But if they're not tapewounds...then get a set of .45's or .50's for your bass cause that's a D string.