.50-.110 for Standard to Drop C#?

lastminute · #1 05-23-2010, 11:56 PM

Hey.....I'm currently playing with some guys who have a weird habit of sticking to either standard tuning, or Drop C#. I have only one 4-string G&L L2000 bass, don't plan on buying another one.

So would say, DR Lo-Riders, .50-.110 Heavy Gauge be a good compromise between the two tunings, provided I did proper setup for both?

knuckle_head · #2 05-24-2010, 08:42 AM

The kicker with switching is you need to compromise on only one string - the balance of your set needn't, but you are forced to compromise there too.

So you are switching between D# and C#, yes? Look for a set with a .112 or .118 on bottom. This size is good for D standard and compromising a half step either way is your best compromise.

odin70 · #3 05-24-2010, 08:45 AM

Roto 55-110 flats should do the trick due to their high tension. If you are into flats of course..

NateS · #4 05-24-2010, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knuckle_head

So you are switching between D# and C#, yes?

i think he meant standard, EADG

knuckle_head · #5 05-24-2010, 07:14 PM

That will be a differential of between 12 and 16 pounds of tension on the low string alone between E and C# - that's asking alot

BassMick · #6 05-24-2010, 10:15 PM

I kinda have the same dilemma, I want to use ernie ball 55-110 gauge round wound. For me thou the tunning will be Eb to C#, don't have the money to buy another bass too.

Is that a good choice to use for eb and C#?

knuckle_head · #7 05-25-2010, 12:40 AM

You will be better served with a .115 or so.

Your best bet is to aim for/intonate to D. Half out both ways is better than way out one way.

donut · #8 05-25-2010, 12:43 AM

If you don't mind losing a high note, have you tried tuning to D# (so you can easily drop the lowest string, something like a D-Tuner would help with switching quickly) and then using a capo on the first fret for standard? You might find after a while that you don't need it.

mcapote · #9 05-25-2010, 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by odin70

Roto 55-110 flats should do the trick due to their high tension. If you are into flats of course..

works for me and steve harris

BassMick · #10 05-25-2010, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knuckle_head

You will be better served with a .115 or so.

Your best bet is to aim for/intonate to D. Half out both ways is better than way out one way.

Thank you, I found the gauge, but they are nickel plated steel, do those type of strings wreck the frets?

wetzelman1 · #11 05-25-2010, 11:24 AM

I actually played in drop C and used an ernie ball 105, with a setup, it was perfect. Unfortunately, I now have to drop down to A and I hate huge strings.

SwamiRob · #12 05-25-2010, 11:32 AM

Really? That must of been very floppy sounding, kinda desirable sometimes but that must be alot. I think my 110 nickle rotos sound like a bit of a mess when I do drop D nevermind anything lower.

Double Agent · #13 05-25-2010, 11:39 AM

Remember, it's not just the GAUGE that needs to be accounted for. I've played .105 E strings that were fine for C# and I've played .105 E strings that were too loose for me when tuned to E. String composition plays a HUGE role in overall string tension.

Are you planning to switch your setup every time you change tunings? Because that would get to be a bit of a pain, don't you think? Your other alternative is to set the bass up for Drop-C# and live with the higher action you would get when tuned to standard. I've used DR Lo-Riders and Fender 7250s for drop C# tuning, both in .045-.105 gauge, and both were tight enough for me with a proper setup. Of course, when I go back to standard tuning, I don't like the lack of playability as the action gets high pretty quickly. I would seriously consider getting a cheap bass for the tuning you use least and have it set up properly for that tuning. I think you will be much happier in the long run than having to adjust your setup every time you change tunings.

knuckle_head · #14 05-25-2010, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BassMick

Thank you, I found the gauge, but they are nickel plated steel, do those type of strings wreck the frets?

No more than any other strings save maybe flats.

rockstarbassist · #15 05-25-2010, 02:15 PM

I go between Eb/Db or C# (whatev you call it) all the time on my NS2 w/ .105 Hi Beams and have zip issues.

Only reason I used this set of .105's tho is b/c I had them lying around. I keep that bass usually in Eb so I like a .110 set. Anything bigger doesn't really like the brass nut on that bass.

SwamiRob · #16 05-26-2010, 02:27 PM

I know gauge isn't everything, but I've never come across a roundwound I'd deem tense enough for that tuning in that gauge. DR Lo Riders are about the tensest round I've come across and I wouldn't use them for C#, then again a slightly floppy sound is a big part of alot of tones for alot people that use these low tunings. Was checking out Paul Gray's sound after seeing the news about him and his setup sounded very loose but it sounded really cool.

rockstarbassist · #17 05-26-2010, 02:30 PM

Hi Beams feel tighter to me than the Lo Riders, which I played for about the last 5-6 years before switching. No flop at all here on any of my axes.

DR's new DT (Down Tune) strings are interesting and next time I set up my drop C bass I'm giving those a whirl.

knuckle_head · #18 05-26-2010, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockstarbassist

DR's new DT (Down Tune) strings are interesting and next time I set up my drop C bass I'm giving those a whirl.

A favor before you do that - refer to D'Addario's or my tension chart before you drop your money down.

You will find that their DDTs are balanced for dropping the entire set rather than just the lowest string.

rockstarbassist · #19 05-26-2010, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knuckle_head

A favor before you do that - refer to D'Addario's or my tension chart before you drop your money down.

You will find that their DDTs are balanced for dropping the entire set rather than just the lowest string.

Yeah my drop C bass is CGCF, so 2 steps on the E string and one on the rest. Is that still cool?

(and actually I'm going to give your new stuff a whirl here soon, I promise!

I just already had a few packs of DR's and EB's lying around)

Double Agent · #20 05-26-2010, 02:44 PM

I intensely dislike floppy strings. When I tune to drop-C#, it isn't to play metal. One bar band that I sit in with on occasion tunes down 1/2-step, so naturally any song we play that would be in drop-D is actually in drop-C#. One such song is "Cuts Like a Knife" by Bryan Adams. Not nu-metal by any stretch, right? I use my MIM P/J whenever I play with them which is loaded with Fender 7250 nickel rounds, .045-.105. The bass it set up with medium action and there is no floppiness in the strings at all when I am tuned to drop-C#. Now if I was doing this with DR Hi Beams or EBMM Slinkys, I don't know if it would go over as well.

Again, floppiness is my enemy, but it isn't a problem for me with the appropriate strings and setup. My other two basses are strung with DR Nickel Lo-Riders and Ernie Ball Group II flats, which both have very high amounts of tension. It still isn't a problem for me to use a .105 tuned to C# and it isn't floppy at all IMO. Part of it may be the way the player attacks the strings as well. My natural playing style was pretty aggressive for a long time, but over the last few years, I've learned to reign it in a bit and only play aggressively when it's called for. Perhaps this has made it easier for me to play lower tension strings than usual.