Anyone match specifc string brands/types to specific basses?

[JGR]

I'm finding that it's best to match specific strings/brands to certain basses to optimize tone on an individual basis, rather than putting the same string on everything. Seems obvious, but I never paid that much attention in the past...

For instance, I like GHS 50-115 Boomers on my Hamer Cruise 2-teks because these basses have a lot of clarity and a zingly high end. The big bottom, nice mids, and shy top of the GHS seem to really balance/compliment these basses.

For my Ric, I tried DR High Beams and hated them as they were too scooped sounding and the Ric is already somewhat compressed. I just put a set of SS Low Riders on which work really well - they have much more present mids which was what I was looking for.

I have a USA Schecter Model T with P-J config, and I've been looking for more definition, grind, and brightness, so I'm about to pop on a set of Rotosound 66's on her.

Lastly, I just picked up a new MM Stingray 30th anniversay. Love this bass, but this is my only active instrument, and I would like to tame some of the high end zing from the aggressive electronics - thinking about the GHS Boomers or some other nickel plated steel string for this. Any suggestions?

Please share your thoughts and experiences!

Cheers,

JR

[Phalex]

I like GHS boomers 45-105 on my Ric for the same reason you like them on your Hamer. The Ric gets plenty of highs and the boomers seem to mellow the tone out very nicely.

[Modern Growl]

rotosound swing 66 45-105 on everything!

[BassoP]

I kind of mix it up. I've got flats on my P, Rotos on my fretted 6, Smiths on my fretless 6. Probably try some DRs in the near future.

[Jerry Ziarko]

Absolutely!! IMHO, I feel that there is a perfect string combination for every bass that gets me the tone that "I" want to hear. My favorite strings of all time (TI Super Alloys) kill on my Cirrus, but sound very average on my Roscoe. The same basses with different body, neck, and fretboard woods may have the exact opposite result however. I have used many different brands, and types throughout the years. I can usually tell if a certain string isn't giving me what I want, which direction to go in to get closer to what I feel is lacking. It might take a few tries to get it to the point where I can establish a good base line. I have owned basses that drove me crazy trying to find the perfect match., but once I hear it, that brand will stay on that bass until it is no longer mine.

[Brad Maestas]

Yeah, I used to experiment a lot with my strings (brand, model, guage, core shape, materials) and I eventually noticed something funny.
Wouldn't you know, I liked strings made by the same company that made the bass!
Oddly enough, my favorite strings for my Ken Smith ended up being Ken Smith taper-cores. Favorite strings for my Fodera.....Foderas!
And yes, I put Sadowskys on my Sadowskys.

The Smith and the Fodera, I feel, are dialed in. I use medium-light guage, stainless steel for those. I'm still learning the Sadowsky strings though and I can't decide which ones I like better, nickel or stainless. Both are pretty fabulous.
I used to change up the strings on my other basses but now it's pretty set.
Pyramid flats on the Hofner, LaBella nylon flats on the Rob Allen and D'Addario XL's on the Fenders.

It wasn't always like this. I went through a "Boomers" phase, a LaBella Hard-Rockin' Steel phase, a D'Addario XL phase, all looking for the right combination of life and tone. Now I'm pretty content with having each respective maker's strings on their basses. However I still refuse to put Fender strings on my Fenders (bad experiences)!

OTOH, I'm still searching for my favorite set for my classical guitar.
That might take a while!

[matito]

i think ernie balls work well with fenders

my jazz bass and strat both work great with ernies