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  #1  
Old 01-09-2010, 03:50 PM
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DR Highbeam tension

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Is there a reference table somewhere that give the tension per string for DR bass strings?

And while Im asking the masses here,,,, would a nickel string have more tension than a stainless steel string?

Thanks in advance for your time.
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  #2  
Old 01-09-2010, 04:07 PM
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That's kinda like asking if a blue car will be faster than a red car

But since DR HiBeams are round core, they will have less tension than a regular hex core string. DR Sunbeams are the nickel version of these.
  #3  
Old 01-09-2010, 04:41 PM
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I have a bass with a neck that Im having trouble getting straight. Its strung with DR Highbeams .40 .60.80.100.

Im thinking of trying D'addario XL 220's, .40 .60 .75 .95.

D'Addario post's the tension in lbs. per string on their website, but DR does not.

I like XL series D'addario's as well as the DR's. I'd just like to know if the tension is different or about the same in lbs pull on the neck.

I know that TI Jazz rounds are the least tension, but I really dont want to pay $ the big bucks if I can get by with something else just to see if changing the strings is going to help my problem.
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Old 01-09-2010, 04:56 PM
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Are you looking for more tension or less tension? D'add XL's have more tension than high beams because they are hex core, assuming you use the same gauge.
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Old 01-09-2010, 05:06 PM
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Ok, good information, roundcore strings have less tension than hexcore strings, got it.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that I'm looking for nickel roundwounds that have less tension than DR Highbeams guaged .40 .60 .80 .100
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  #6  
Old 01-09-2010, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by lowendblues View Post
Ok, good information, roundcore strings have less tension than hexcore strings, got it.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that I'm looking for nickel roundwounds that have less tension than DR Highbeams guaged .40 .60 .80 .100
Highbeams arent too bad tension wise, and I doubt the fact they are steel makes much of a difference, if you feel it may you could try Sunbeams.
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Old 01-09-2010, 05:21 PM
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I guess I should explain, I picked up a P- bass lyte really cheap locally thinking of flipping it, but as it turns out Im really digging this bass.

I'm a setup freak, and I cant quite get the neck to adjust flat enough to get the set up where Im really comfortable.

Just one of those aggravating details that separate a good bass from a great bass.
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  #8  
Old 01-09-2010, 05:31 PM
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Well, they do make Highbeams in an "LLR40", same gauges as the XL220. They're really, really low tension. If you can't get the bow out with those, you have a serious truss rod issue - maybe it needs washer or two under the allen screw?
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Old 01-09-2010, 05:39 PM
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I'll try the washer. That thought slipped my mind.

Thanks for all the input.
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Old 01-09-2010, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowendblues View Post
Ok, good information, roundcore strings have less tension than hexcore strings, got it.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that I'm looking for nickel roundwounds that have less tension than DR Highbeams guaged .40 .60 .80 .100
DR Sunbeams are the answer. Or DR ExtraLifes if you want something mellower, coated, and available in colors
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Old 01-09-2010, 06:11 PM
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Thanks guys. I appreciate all the input.

I've never tried Sunbeams, I just ordered 2 sets.
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  #12  
Old 01-09-2010, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by lowendblues View Post
I guess I should explain, I picked up a P- bass lyte really cheap locally thinking of flipping it, but as it turns out Im really digging this bass.

I'm a setup freak, and I cant quite get the neck to adjust flat enough to get the set up where Im really comfortable.

Just one of those aggravating details that separate a good bass from a great bass.
I see where you are coming from now, I'm in the same position with my modding bass (a Squier).

Unfortunately I have already put two (thick) washers in, but it didnt do much good (not to discourage you, it may work for you). I also have light gauge flats on it, tuned half a step down. But its still no good, I guess the neck must be just a problem one. Now the only thing left is to get a new neck, which could be a blessing, as I will end up with a nicer neck (hopefully a MIA!)

My advise to you, to hopefully save your neck would be to go for as light a gauge as possible.
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  #13  
Old 01-09-2010, 06:33 PM
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Really its not that bad. I just demand a really low action. Anyone else might think it plays just fine. I've been playing for about 33 years and I know what I like, and dont like to compromise on how my basses play.
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  #14  
Old 01-10-2010, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by lowendblues View Post
Really its not that bad. I just demand a really low action. Anyone else might think it plays just fine. I've been playing for about 33 years and I know what I like, and dont like to compromise on how my basses play.
I understand, I can be a bit like that. The reason I suggested a very light gauge, is that your neck will move again eventually due to weather changes etc. And then you wont be able to alter it. So it would be best to have as little tension already pulling on it, so the changes are more minimal.

If it does get to this stage while you still own it, the washer method may well help. Also something which fixed one of mine was to have a friend (or use a clamp to) bend the neck into a back bow, with the truss rod nut un done about half way, then while its bent tighten the nut. That will hold it in the back bow, then the tension of the strings will alleviate the back bow, if it doesent, you can then un do the nut a bit, buying yourself a little bit of adjustment.

Hope this may be of some help in the future, and sorry if you already knew it.
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  #15  
Old 01-10-2010, 01:06 PM
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I dont think its that drastic to clamp it up. I'll try the strings and see what that produces.

Thanks for all the input, much appreciated.
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