DR Lo Riders are the Devil!

[dragoon419]

I was putting on a new pair of DR Lo Riders I had bought today, and the little bastards stapped on me! Luckly I escaped unharmed, but those darn strings can't take anything. They have almost no tesion what-so-ever! There's more tension from of Ernie Ball Supers than in these.

Maybe it was my fault that they snapped, I probably tightened them too much. But that's not the point. The point is, that these strings, which were heavy guage, didn't even make my neck bend at all! They may be the "stiffest strings" but they're also the weakest strings I've ever seen.

Please give me any feedback that either supports my point. Or try to convince me that Lo Riders are the best strings ever.

[agreatheight]

Dude, I have no idea what you did to those strings but I have been playing DR Low Riders 45 - 105 for 15 years and have NEVER broken a string.

[StoutXXX]

Might just be user error like you suggested. Other then that they are the exact opposite of slinky in my book.

[KJung]

Originally Posted by dragoon419

I was putting on a new pair of DR Lo Riders I had bought today, and the little bastards stapped on me! Luckly I escaped unharmed, but those darn strings can't take anything. They have almost no tesion what-so-ever! There's more tension from of Ernie Ball Supers than in these.

Maybe it was my fault that they snapped, I probably tightened them too much. But that's not the point. The point is, that these strings, which were heavy guage, didn't even make my neck bend at all! They may be the "stiffest strings" but they're also the weakest strings I've ever seen.

Please give me any feedback that either supports my point. Or try to convince me that Lo Riders are the best strings ever.

What are you talking about. You 'probably' tightened them too much' What does that mean. I've been playing for 30 years and have never broken a string. I use Hi Beams... from what I understand they are lower tension than the Low Riders and I find then fast, clean and wonderfully articulate... and the last forever.

If you tighten any string significantly above pitch... well... it's going to snap?

[Freaky Fender]

Maybe you got a bum set. Did you keep winding when there was no tension? The core was probably being stretched.

[Ron Now]

I used nothing but lo riders for about 6 years changing every couple months on multiple basses I only had one problem ever (I got a faulty string with a broken core, out the package) Other than that I never had a complaint with them. I assume I would still not have any complaints if I hadn't switched to flatwounds.

[seansbrew]

Try another set, this time plug in your tuner.

[tzadik]

I broke them all time....A strings....until I got sick of shelling out the $ and filed the burr off of my saddle. Highly recommended.

And please....don't blame the strings! Get a tuner!

[dragoon419]

Originally Posted by Freaky Fender

Maybe you got a bum set. Did you keep winding when there was no tension? The core was probably being stretched.

I think your right. I'll get 2 more sets and try one if the other fails.

btw, ty Freaky Fender. I think you've eased my troubled mind.

[dragoon419]

Oh, and thanks for all of the quick responses!!!

[HMZ]

I’ve used them for years and never had a problem. As far as tension their much stiffer then Erie Ball’s.

[BassmanStu]

I bought two sets of DR strings recently. One was taper, the other was not. I think the taper set was called "Long Neck" actually.
Now, those strings are clearly of the devil.
They sounded great up to about the 12th fret, at which point every note sounded like it had some crazy phaser effect. I thought I was having intonation problems suddenly. I decided to remove them and put on the Lo-Rider set, then I was back in business. The Lo-Riders sound and feel great, with no bizarre intonation/crazy phaser issues. It was tough to get that B string through the bridge (of my Spector Euro 5), but that's my only complaint.

[seansbrew]

Originally Posted by BassmanStu

I bought two sets of DR strings recently. One was taper, the other was not. I think the taper set was called "Long Neck" actually.
Now, those strings are clearly of the devil.
They sounded great up to about the 12th fret, at which point every note sounded like it had some crazy phaser effect. I thought I was having intonation problems suddenly. I decided to remove them and put on the Lo-Rider set, then I was back in business. The Lo-Riders sound and feel great, with no bizarre intonation/crazy phaser issues. It was tough to get that B string through the bridge (of my Spector Euro 5), but that's my only complaint.

There have been countless debates about this type of thing. I myself have had a similar experience with taper strings. I prefer to use full mass over the bridge.

[Zharlon]

I have tried many popular brand strings over the years and I can honestly say the DR "Low riders" are so far out in front in terms of tension,quality,etc..etc..

Recently I put some High beams on a bass I just picked up....the store here didn't have low riders......the High beams are....eh...so..so....

Definetely I would examine the bridge and nut VERY closely......I haven't broken a string in ten years!!!




K

[mark roberts]

Originally Posted by dragoon419

I think your right. I'll get 2 more sets and try one if the other fails.

btw, ty Freaky Fender. I think you've eased my troubled mind.

DR provides installation tips with every set of strings. I recommend you follow them. It's excellent advice and applicable to ALL strings (regardless of maker).

Don't install strings unless you have some pliers that can bend the string at 90 degrees (before cutting) and leaving a 3/4" tail for insertion into the machine head and some cutters that are capable of a clean cut at one shot.

Also, another post talked about a burr in the saddle...worth checking out.

Success to you.

[Deep]

Been using DR's for over 10 yrs without ever breaking a string.

Not to change the subject, but as far as the Long-Necks having that phasing issue.......the taperwound portion of the Long-Necks are longer than other tapered brands, so the tapered section sits over the rear p/up a bit possibly causing that phasing effect. These strings are really made to go thru the body where they fit perfectly on string-thru body basses. That's why they have an extra long taper. Also....if you have a Lakland 5 string bass and want to use DR's with a tapered B string...order a 4 string set and tell them you want the tapered B for the Lakland....the'll give you a Long-Neck B string that fits perfect on Laklands.

[Disco_Gee]

I've used DR's (various types) for the last 5 years and the only time I ever snapped one was while popping. It was an old string and due for a change. I have no idea how you managed to snap one tuning it, unless you over tuned it WAY too much.

[srxplayer]

Could be a defect or you did something wrong. I have used DR strings, and I can attest that they were well built and long lasting strings.

[Kaspar Vadsholt]

With regards to that "phasing issue" of the long necks, I have a theory:
I think it might have something to do with the tapered strings getting nearer the pole pieces of the p.u's, thus creating a strong pull, that makes the string go out of tune above the 12th fret.
I've never used that particular string, but have had intonation problems with various flatwounds. In those cases it helped a lot, when I lowered the pups. Just a thought....

[ehque]

its just the non-simplistic vibration of a string of non-constant mass-per-unit-length.

ie. the taper reduces mass at one end of the string, changing its vibration characteristics and pitch, i believe.