drop A tuning advice.

AerodyneBassist · #1 08-09-2011, 09:01 PM

I play in a progressive, technical group. And my guitarists use 7 strings, so its just the standard tuning with a lower a string. but, i have trouble with my tone because all i have are standard strings.

any suggestions on strings?
ive never had to deal with drop tunings messing with my strings before but again, ive never dropped this low.

any tips would help!

thanks

genericusername · #2 08-09-2011, 09:08 PM

I'm guessing you own a 4-string. If I was playing with 7-string wielding guitarists, I'd buy a 5-string, and tune down a full step. That'd bring you to A. In any case, look for a set of 5-string bass string sets, that would work, but it mightn't fit the nut.

AerodyneBassist · #3 08-09-2011, 09:44 PM

yes i own a 4.

im looking to buy a 5 soon though.
but until then, ill give that a shot. any specific brand or type? because i have no clue what the difference is between (for instance) slinky, or super slinky.

mikepcann · #4 08-09-2011, 09:46 PM

buy a 5 string set and use the B-E-A-D strings.. and tune the B down... one option.....some times tapered B strings can help with the B string. maybe a bit heavier gagues to help with the down tuning of the B string. possibly .135 for the B?

hope that helps.

knuckle_head · #5 08-09-2011, 11:10 PM

A .135 at B has 36.1 pounds of tension - the .105 at E that should accompany it has 40.3 pounds of tension. A .145 at A has 32.9 pounds of tension.

If you want your A to be what a B is at .135 you will want a .150 which would give you roughly 36.7 pounds of tension.

My drop A sets are .150 .102 .076 .057.

If you are interested in a set that matches the tension a .105 has at E my .158 .106 .079 .059 set may serve you well.

diechris · #6 08-09-2011, 11:11 PM

I use a Spector Euro4lx35 and tune to A. a .135 or .130 works fine. You can use thicker gauge strings... or have a longer scale length (35").

IMO I would rather use a lighter string and longer scale.. reason being, the tone seems to suffer and get a bit "boomy" with larger gauge strings.. at least that is what my experience was.

knuckle_head · #7 08-09-2011, 11:14 PM

One inch in scale length will get you only two more pounds of tension - a thicker string than a .135 is called for IMO, and is cheaper than a new bass.

Expect to need to do a full setup with a new nut.

diechris · #8 08-09-2011, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knuckle_head

One inch in scale length will get you only two more pounds of tension - a thicker string than a .135 is called for IMO, and is cheaper than a new bass.

Expect to need to do a full setup with a new nut.

true. but something about a thicker gauge string may have the right tension but the tone suffers more then a string with less tension.

this is an opinion of course

AerodyneBassist · #9 08-09-2011, 11:59 PM

alright. thanks for the help, ill see what i can do about getting a 5 and working from there.

knuckle_head · #10 08-10-2011, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by diechris

true. but something about a thicker gauge string may have the right tension but the tone suffers more then a string with less tension.

this is an opinion of course

There are ways to make thick strings that maintain their tone - trust me.

FWIW a 5 string won't alter what you'll have to do to get to A well.

FunkMetalBass · #11 08-10-2011, 09:44 AM

I agree with knucklehead about the .150 or .158 (if you like 'em heavy, his .166 string is a wonderful low A-string).

diechris · #12 08-10-2011, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knuckle_head

There are ways to make thick strings that maintain their tone - trust me.

FWIW a 5 string won't alter what you'll have to do to get to A well.

I am all ears! ...as long as I dont have to re-learn how I "play" I would love to have a good balance between tension and tone

knuckle_head · #13 08-10-2011, 10:58 AM

The biggest impediment to tone in thick strings is their inflexibility - this is caused by either too-thick a core, too many wraps, or both. My string designs minimize both.

I know, too, that there are preferences all over the map for what tensions are comfortable to individual players. Most sets get tighter in tension as they get thinner - nothing wrong with that. There is a growing preference for even tensions on all strings - I advocate this notion as it 'fixes' a number of things that IMO aren't quite right with traditional string sets.

I offer gauges that let you adjust tensions to your preferences, in roughly 3 pound increments. My sets are suggestions - a place to start. The .135 you use for A may be absolutely perfect for you and I wouldn't dare talk you out of it. By all of this I am only suggesting that there is another way to get there, and you can do it with fewer compromises. As always - it's your choice.

Josh Pelican · #14 08-10-2011, 11:00 AM

Whenever you have a question regarding strings, go to Skip (knuckle_head). I use his strings on two basses at present and will be using them on many more in the future.

Dude is a genius.

diechris · #15 08-10-2011, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knuckle_head

The biggest impediment to tone in thick strings is their inflexibility - this is caused by either too-thick a core, too many wraps, or both. My string designs minimize both.

I know, too, that there are preferences all over the map for what tensions are comfortable to individual players. Most sets get tighter in tension as they get thinner - nothing wrong with that. There is a growing preference for even tensions on all strings - I advocate this notion as it 'fixes' a number of things that IMO aren't quite right with traditional string sets.

I offer gauges that let you adjust tensions to your preferences, in roughly 3 pound increments. My sets are suggestions - a place to start. The .135 you use for A may be absolutely perfect for you and I wouldn't dare talk you out of it. By all of this I am only suggesting that there is another way to get there, and you can do it with fewer compromises. As always - it's your choice.

Doing a good job talking me out of it lol

I don't know the details to it... but the best I can explain it would be...

If I was tuning a 34" in standard EADG tuning... I would prefer the E was a .100

I like a bit more play in a string.. the .135 has a bit more then I would like.. but the tone is closer to what I would want.. larger strings I've tried definitely had an "inflexibility" issue.

NKBassman · #16 08-10-2011, 11:30 AM

I'm definitely going to try Circle K for my next set of strings. Mind you, we play in C standard, not A...

I am using Rotosound Drop Zone strings right now, which I believe is a 135 on the lowest string. Tuned up to C it gets really tight, which is how I like it. I've developed a pretty heavy right had over the years, and as a result I can't stand floppy strings.

ixlramp · #17 08-10-2011, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AerodyneBassist

yes i own a 4.

im looking to buy a 5 soon though.
but until then, ill give that a shot. any specific brand or type? because i have no clue what the difference is between (for instance) slinky, or super slinky.

For drop A, AEAD, some people would use the BEAD strings from a 5 string set and drop the B to A. The problem is that B strings in traditional sets are usually at very low tension and dropping it makes it too floppy and the tone suffers.

I recommend a set, custom or otherwise, that is designed for drop A, having the lowest gauge increased to compensate for it being dropped to A. Circle K Strings 'drop tune' sets are designed to have equal tension on each string in the drop tuning. The choice of 4 string drop sets is here: vStandard Drop-tuned 4 Strings. To choose a set just select one with your preferred gauge for E.

Alternatively you could buy single strings of similar gauges in another brand, the low A needs to be at least a .145.

With either a 4 or 5 string you'll need to widen the nut slots, this can be done DIY but just be very careful not to deepen the slots, also make sure the slot floors retain their curved shape to centre the strings.

diechris · #18 08-10-2011, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ixlramp

For drop A, AEAD, some people would use the BEAD strings from a 5 string set and drop the B to A. The problem is that B strings in traditional sets are usually at very low tension and dropping it makes it too floppy and the tone suffers.

You need a set, custom or otherwise, that is designed for drop A, having the lowest gauge increased to compensate for it being dropped to A. Circle K Strings 'drop tune' sets are designed to have equal tension on each string in the drop tuning. The choice of 4 string drop sets is here: vStandard Drop-tuned 4 Strings. To choose a set just select one with your preferred gauge for E.

Alternatively you could buy single strings of similar gauges in another brand, the low A needs to be at least a .145.

With either a 4 or 5 string you'll need to widen the nut slots, this can be done DIY but just be very careful not to deepen the slots and make sure the slot floors retain their curved shape to centre the strings.

ixlramp · #19 08-10-2011, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by diechris

If I was tuning a 34" in standard EADG tuning... I would prefer the E was a .100

larger strings I've tried definitely had an "inflexibility" issue.

Are you tuned ADGC?

I found D'Addario .145s to be very flexy. Circle Ks are possibly even more flexible and seem to be the better string.

diechris · #20 08-10-2011, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ixlramp

Are you tuned ADGC?

I found D'Addario .145s to be very flexy. Circle Ks are possibly even more flexible and seem to be the better string.

Yes, currently on my 4 string its ADGC.

I have not tried the .145 from D'Addario.

All this talk about strings is going to make me go through another hundred bucks in strings again lol