Dumb Question about Warwick Corvette 5

BigRedFenderJ5 · #1 05-24-2011, 08:14 PM

Need some help here. I just recently bought one of these and i'm changing the strings. I have always used DR Lo-Riders. My problem is that the lo-riders will not fit through the bridge on the Warwick Corvette std. Does anyone know what gauge that i need or where i can find that information?

Thanks for the help

dave64o · #2 05-24-2011, 09:06 PM

I have an FNA Jazzman, which is a Corvette style body, and had the same issue. I remember searching for info here and on the Warwick forums and found a few approaches.

Apparently there are some conditions that will allow Warwick to send you a new stop tail piece and/or bridge that's designed "better" so it doesn't have that problem.

I think I also rememebr seeing that the Warwick Yellow's would fit (original strings for that model).

But what seemed to be acknowledged as the most common solution is filing down the just as hair to allow the strings to easily fit. Seeing the Warwick forums say that's the most common way people deal with it and that apparently so many Warwicks out there that have been filed in this way that it doesn't affect the bass's value.

I put on Sunbeams and the luthier I went to when I first got the bass did his own research and agreed that the easiest way to deal with it was to file the stop tail piece. He showed me what he would do and I OK'd it. When I saw it after it was done, it was very hard to see how much he took off, but the B string fit now. I wasn't crazy about it at first, but the amount to be taken off was so minor I decided it wasn't a big enough deal to worry about so I did it. Several months later I never think about it. I just enjoy the bass.

If you want to try solving it with strings then you could try the Longnecks. I was tempted to do that but I already had these Sunbeams so I did what I did. YMMV

escaraBAJO · #3 05-24-2011, 09:16 PM

Had the same problem. I own a corvette proline 5.
First I used to press the string with pliers so it was narrower.

Now I just buy tapper wound strings. They ARE narrower at the bridge. And resonate better in my opinion.

Don't like the idea of filing the bridge.

darkstorm · #4 05-24-2011, 09:37 PM

This is a long standing mfg defect problem with those german warwcks for well over a decade now. Warwicks own responce to people enquiring about this is to tell the person to go get themself a metal file and widen the bridge slots so other strings will fit. I find this laughable and just plain bad bussiness on warwicks part. Because some of their own string sets wont fit either untill you buy said metal file and widen the bridge slots.

BigRedFenderJ5 · #5 05-25-2011, 04:55 AM

Thanks for your responses. I certainly appreciate your help.

defiend · #6 05-25-2011, 05:32 AM

my corvette (rockbass), with a one piece bridge, has a max of 125 on the B-string. a bit annoying. might be the same on yours, not sure what it looks like

KsPiNeSh · #7 05-25-2011, 06:40 AM

You can also grab a pair of pliers and flatten the ball end a bit so that it will fit into the slot. I've done both (filed the tailpiece and flattened) with great success.

joels84944 · #8 05-25-2011, 07:20 AM

On warwicks site the 5 strings heaviest gauge is 135. hope this helps

robertusf · #9 05-29-2011, 11:02 AM

Sadowsky strings with tapered b worked great for me. Warwick strings have the taper, but I didn't care for them.

One Bad Monkey · #10 05-30-2011, 07:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by escaraBAJO

Had the same problem. I own a corvette proline 5.
First I used to press the string with pliers so it was narrower.

Now I just buy tapper wound strings. They ARE narrower at the bridge. And resonate better in my opinion.

Don't like the idea of filing the bridge.

I have gone this route as well. I agree that having taper wound or contact core strings seems to help the lower ones vibrate more (the first time I hit the B string with my GHS Super Steel Contact Cores on my Streamer, I felt the body of the bass shake. Not prior). I've even gone so far as to order new bridge saddles that have smaller grooves (i.e. the ones made for C, G and D strings) and use those for the contact core E and B.

Vlad5 · #11 05-30-2011, 01:06 PM

I have a Thumb 5'er, and use .135's (DR Drop Down Tuning). I previously used the Low Riders too, .130, and loved em. Since I am a big fan of super-fat bass strings, and absolutely refuse to file my bridge (cannot be undone!), I use pliers to flatten the ball end of the strings.

With the .130's, I only had to flatten the B string, with the .135's, I had to flatten both the E and B, and it was a BITCH to get those suckers in there! Hurts to use pliers, I recommend a vise if you have one handy. It does work, and doesn't mess up the strings any (as far as I can tell).

If you can order a new bridge from Warwick with wider slots for a reasonable price, that would be the other way to go. Then you would have a narrow bridge AND a wide bridge to choose from. Though that may not be very cost effective.

If you do file your bridge, and I do not recommend you do, be sure to go at it in very small increments and only remove as much material as needed for the string. File in one direction, away from the ball slot, little by little. Some .135's are almost as fat as the ball at that end, so care is required so the ball still seats without slipping out.

Good luck!