"Fat-Beams" Marcus Miller Signature Series. Worth it?

Migsds · #1 05-24-2011, 11:59 PM

Hi everyone,

I am currently using a yamaha RBX 375. I quite like the tone of it but have found that my current strings(standard) are a little bit to deep all-round and are very sensitive and dont pick up certain things so well. I play a wide variety of music including jazz and funk and rock. I recently started getting into finger tapping(similar to victor wooten) and harmonics.

It got recommended to me to change strings either to the
"Fat-Beams" Marcus Miller Signature Series.
or
DR Low Rider strings.

I have never really needed to change strings until now. Are any of these two worth it?

**woolysock** · #2 05-25-2011, 12:27 AM

c2thej2theizzo · #3 05-25-2011, 01:19 AM

I will only put Fat Beams on my Warwick. They just have that "just right" sound to me. just the right amount of attack , a little less punch than GHS Boomers but still deep and not wimpy and mid-heavey like DAddario, and most other cheaper medium gauge strings. But if you think your strings are too boomy now you may want to try DR High Beams first. these are good for high fret work.

KsPiNeSh · #4 05-25-2011, 02:43 AM

FatBeams were on one of my old Spectors and I wil say that they sounded *great*. Really brought out the growl of the Spector with a very balanced, thick overall sound. Loved 'em, and will probably throw them on my other basses at some point just for fun.

J-O · #5 05-25-2011, 09:40 AM

Fatbeams are my favorite DR strings. They sound fantastic, last a long time, and seem to be slightly stiffer than the high beams. The low riders are much higher tension and stiffness. Both are great strings, it just depends in what type of tone/ feel you are after.

tylerwylie · #6 05-25-2011, 09:41 AM

Lo Rider's tension isn't much different, but they are a lot stiffer. I've gone between Lo Riders and Hi/Fat Beams on a many basses and the neck stayed straight the whole time.

Bollenator · #7 05-25-2011, 09:52 AM

Just had my bass setup with Fat Beams and I'm in awe. I already loved my bass, even though the previous setup (I now discover) wasn't very well done, but after this setup and getting these spectacular new strings on it, I'm going to have a hard time putting this bass down. Super excited!

tylerwylie · #8 05-25-2011, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bollenator

Just had my bass setup with Fat Beams and I'm in awe. I already loved my bass, even though the previous setup (I now discover) wasn't very well done, but after this setup and getting these spectacular new strings on it, I'm going to have a hard time putting this bass down. Super excited!

You know I've had people setup my bass and they could never get it done the way I wanted... so I bought a set of allen wrenches and some wire cutters and now realize it's so easy.

Bollenator · #9 05-25-2011, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tylerwylie

You know I've had people setup my bass and they could never get it done the way I wanted... so I bought a set of allen wrenches and some wire cutters and now realize it's so easy.

I'm getting really close to that place myself - this latest setup was done by Mike Lull and he definitely knows what he's doing, but he's also not the cheapest (by any stretch). Plus, it's just a good thing to know how to do, like changing the oil in your car (which I also pay other people to do

).

tylerwylie · #10 05-25-2011, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bollenator

I'm getting really close to that place myself - this latest setup was done by Mike Lull and he definitely knows what he's doing, but he's also not the cheapest (by any stretch). Plus, it's just a good thing to know how to do, like changing the oil in your car (which I also pay other people to do

).

I use a few trick's since I don't have a machinist ruler or a radius gauges, I have this coin that works as a token at a car wash down the street, and to make sure the radius is setup properly I find the last fret that the coin slides under without touching a string and then use cardboard cards to measure and match the understring radius of all the strings.

Knowing that, and that most bridge saddles are set by 'thread per inch' an even amount of turns on each saddle raises and lowers by the same amount it becomes easy to adjust the action universally. And playing Music Man basses makes trust rod adjustment as easy as finding anything that'll stick in that hole and not bend(that's what she said!).

keiththebassist · #11 05-25-2011, 10:44 AM

I have played lowriders for some time and really love the crispness and Hi-fi shimmer that I get, even in the lows. I mix it up with fingerstyle, pick style, slapping, tapping and strumming and I gotta say those strings sounds damn good with any style. I think it may be due to the hexagonal core of the string that gives it the sharpness to the tone. Probably not the best for that really classic tubey bass sound which I think is rich but not quite so hi-fi. Just tried some Sfarzo SFT's which are really nice for the price (20$) but just don't quite get that hi-fi richness that the DR's give me. Just try a set out, if ya don't like em keep experimenting.

Migsds · #12 05-26-2011, 03:28 AM

Thanks guys for all the responses. I think i will definately go for maybe the higher tension string. I have really been playing around with Harmonics and my current strings really dont pick it up well as they are deeper. im not to worried about price though but i really dont want to waste the money. Now just to decide before Saturday

Mete · #13 05-26-2011, 03:34 AM

I used the Marcus Millers they were damn good strings but they lost their tone in a short time. but yeah to hear that sound from your guitar totally worth the price

LimaGuy · #14 05-26-2011, 06:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Migsds

Hi everyone,

I am currently using a yamaha RBX 375. I quite like the tone of it but have found that my current strings(standard) are a little bit to deep all-round and are very sensitive and dont pick up certain things so well. I play a wide variety of music including jazz and funk and rock. I recently started getting into finger tapping(similar to victor wooten) and harmonics.

It got recommended to me to change strings either to the
"Fat-Beams" Marcus Miller Signature Series.
or
DR Low Rider strings.

I have never really needed to change strings until now. Are any of these two worth it?

I have Low Riders on one of my Spector Euro's and I just put Fat Beams on my other Spector Euro. Both are really nicely balanced. The Fat Beams are more flexable and the Lo-riders are stiffer. But if you are into harmonics and finger tapping I would go with the Lo-Riders. In my opinion harmonics just jump right off of them.

tylerwylie · #15 07-24-2011, 02:06 AM

Well. I used to use primarily Circle K's, and when/if they release a stainless steel set I'll probably come back... but Fat Beams are officially my favorite string. Just amazing strings!

negative theory · #16 07-24-2011, 07:49 PM

Fat Beams are the only strings that I use on my 55-01. They're just perfect on that bass.

Nightvision · #17 07-25-2011, 09:34 PM

I think Fat Beams will become my favourite strings and I tried all the strings from DR.
They're just perfect, sounds great, very easy to play, more than Lo-Rider IMO.
Sounds awesome on my G&L L2000.

asberrys · #18 07-25-2011, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LimaGuy

I have Low Riders on one of my Spector Euro's and I just put Fat Beams on my other Spector Euro. Both are really nicely balanced. The Fat Beams are more flexable and the Lo-riders are stiffer. But if you are into harmonics and finger tapping I would go with the Lo-Riders. In my opinion harmonics just jump right off of them.

Are you sure? I had heard that round-core strings were better for harmonics.
Does anyone know if the low-riders(hex core) are better for harmonics than the -Beams series for DR which are round core.?

pbass888 · #19 07-27-2011, 03:01 PM

Fatbeams sound great and very long-lasting and balanced .
One can get em cheap on the web say low 20's!
recommended for jazz and fusion. Nice fat low e and clean g strings.

FunkMetalBass · #20 07-27-2011, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by asberrys

Are you sure? I had heard that round-core strings were better for harmonics.
Does anyone know if the low-riders(hex core) are better for harmonics than the -Beams series for DR which are round core.?

It would completely depend on the harmonics you and string gauges.

Harmonics of standing waves are created by introducing a new node (point of no movement) into the vibration. If you play a 12th fret harmonic, the string is, for the most part, not vibrating above the 12th fret. A 5th fret harmonic causes this same phenomenon above the 5th, 12th, and 24th fret. If you've ever noticed that a 4th fret harmonic doesn't ring out well when you solo the neck pickup, it's because there's a node over the pickup (about 6.7" away from the bridge). The string type doesn't matter - physics is in the way if harmonic nodes are placed over the pickup.

The gauge of the string can negate the core size. More string flexibility (usually due to less tension) = more string vibrational amplitude = louder volume. Strings with round cores have less mass then hex cores and thus less tension. So, equal gauges will have different tension between hex cores and round cores. In this case, yes, the round core will help you with the harmonics.