Flats/Tapewounds on Headless Bass?

[loopee]

I'd like to put either flats or tapewounds on my custom headless bass. This bass has a ash/maple chambered body with ebony board and an Aguilar preamp. I find it a little too bright with rounds. But this bass uses regular strings and I don't know what would happen to the strings when I cut them down to size. Will they fray? The tapewounds probably will but what about the flats?

[Meatrus]

Which bit of the string would you be cutting, the main string or the tapered section? If not the tapered section could you not buy shorter scale strings? Then you may just need to trim the tapered/silked bit.

Alternatively if your bass can take double ballend strings also, Status hotwire strings have both flats and tapes.

[TheMutt]

As long as you cut them correctly and not on the actual windings, the strings shouldn't fray. As stated, if you need them cut down to the windings, get some short scale strings.

[loopee]

well, I have short scale strings (rounds) on it now and I had to cut them below the windings (silk).....otherwise, it would look rather ridiculous to leave them uncut.....I cannot use the double ball end strings - only regular strings......I've had this bass 6 years but the last time I put strings on it the E started unwinding and I went through 2 sets before I got one that didn't.....so if the rounds can unwind, can flats and tapewounds unwind too?

what do you mean by cutting them correctly? I would be cutting the actual string so I'm not sure if you mean on an angle or cutting them 90 degrees.....?

[7flat5]

It would probably help if we could see a pic of the clamping mechanism you have to use. I would think that, generally, if you clamp before you cut it would hold, but if the clamp is such that that doesn't work, it can be pretty tough. If you cut before you clamp, and have to clamp 1/2" or so from the cut, you are going to have the same problem as you did with the roundwound. There's no real difference with flatwounds.

[RustyAxe]

Even if you didn't have to cut 'em (don't, unless you're handy with a soldering gun) most makers don't recommend them for any string through body bridges. They tend to split the winding at those sharp bends.

[loopee]

I can't seem to post a pic but this bass has the ABM bridge system on it. Just little clamps that hold the string in at the neck. I (always) cut the strings after it's clamped yet I have 2 E's that unravelled. I've had that bass 6 years and it had never done that until the last time I put strings on it and I went thru 2 sets (kind of expensive). So I don't want that to happen to flats or tapewounds.

Soldering gun? Do you mean that after I've cut the string (once it's clamped in) that I should use my soldering gun to close it up so it doesn't unwind? Can that be done on flats and tapewounds too? I've never thought of using that but it's a good idea. Though I'd have to leave the strings protruding a bit from the neck but at least they won't cut my hand or others with some solder at the end......

I'm not using the string thru, I've heard of that problem.......

Thanks guys, if you have any more ideas let me know......

[Meatrus]

I think a soldering gun may be too powerful, (you may end up burning something) a moderately powered soldering iron would be best if you are going to go that route. It may end up messy after a few string changes unless you are good at removing old solder.

My personal choice would be to fit a different string holding thingy, and use double ballend strings, or find a more reliable mechanism of using single ballend. As it sounds like the one you have is, to use a technical term....crap .

[loopee]

OK, first of all let me just say this.......a soldering iron was not "my idea"....I was just trying to understand what RustyAxe was saying.......

Secondly, why would I have to remove the solder? The solder, as I understand it, would be put at the end of the string so it wouldn't fray......hello????? Not soldering the string to the neckpiece.....!!!!!! Are you crazy?

Thirdly, ABM bridges are not CRAP......It just happens that the mechanism holding the string in (with time) got too sharp and cut into the string and I possibly tightened it a little too much which also cut into the string, so I sanded it down and it's working fine now....

Fourth, I'm not worried about the ABM neck piece.....I'm worried about cutting the string and having the string unravel........there is nothing wrong with my bass

Fifth, I don't like double ball end strings........


It's the STRING UNRAVELLING AFTER CUTTING IT that I'm worried about.......got it?

Meatrus, please don't "crap" on other peoples very expensive and extremely great instruments.....it's extremely insulting......

[Meatrus]

Originally Posted by loopee

OK, first of all let me just say this.......a soldering iron was not "my idea"....I was just trying to understand what RustyAxe was saying.......

Secondly, why would I have to remove the solder? The solder, as I understand it, would be put at the end of the string so it wouldn't fray......hello????? Not soldering the string to the neckpiece.....!!!!!! Are you crazy?

Thirdly, ABM bridges are not CRAP......It just happens that the mechanism holding the string in (with time) got too sharp and cut into the string and I possibly tightened it a little too much which also cut into the string, so I sanded it down and it's working fine now....

Fourth, I'm not worried about the ABM neck piece.....I'm worried about cutting the string and having the string unravel........there is nothing wrong with my bass

Fifth, I don't like double ball end strings........


It's the STRING UNRAVELLING AFTER CUTTING IT that I'm worried about.......got it?

Meatrus, please don't "crap" on other peoples very expensive and extremely great instruments.....it's extremely insulting......

You have serious problems if this is how you act when someone tries to help you .

There was a misunderstanding on where you would be using the solder, which I'm sorry for, though I was fully aware that it wasn't your idea (or mine). Having said that I cant see adding solder to the end of the strings helping much with the problem of your inability to re string your bass.

If its any consolation I had (and still have) no idea what bass you have, or any idea of its price. I never called it crap, just the way it is strung sounds it if your having this amount of trouble.

Though really, so what if I did insult the bass? (which I didn't) I really cant understand this getting offended about having your instrument criticized. Would you have preferred it if I insulted you rather than a piece of metal for not being able to manage putting a new set of strings on? Your post lead me to believe its at fault......not you, or that was the case until you started acting like a child.

Sorry my advice wasn't to your liking, but you had no reason to act like you did, especially when I was doing my best to help. Here's some more free advice...learn how to use your bass, so you don't have to come here getting upset.

[7flat5]

Originally Posted by loopee

It just happens that the mechanism holding the string in (with time) got too sharp and cut into the string and I possibly tightened it a little too much which also cut into the string, so I sanded it down and it's working fine now...

So, this was the problem? I love the look of those ABM headless sets, and the string flexibility (no double-ball Steiny strings) is its main strength, so I'm interested in how this came down. Did you install flats? Everybody (mostly) happy?

[loopee]

Meatrus - you are the one with the problem - this is the only reply you will get from me - I will not join you in the BS - YOU need to grow up -

By the way, this bass is a custom "oneofakind" bass, so it doesn't matter whether you see a photo of it or not.....you can always google ABM bridges if you are interested......

There is a law on TB - you don't insult other TBer's equipment - and calling it crap is an insult - if you had any idea what ABM headless systems are you would not have said it - besides, every piece of equipment needs to be looked at and adjusted every once in a while and I've had this bass 6 years before anything needed adjustment so I certainly wouldn't call it crap

By the way, I've been playing bass and guitar for over 45 years - I could fix my own equipment before you're parents were born and I know how to change strings.....
See? You still have it wrong!!!!! What I was asking was whether a string would unravel once it has been cut...............

I will not reply to any more or your replies so don't even bother

[loopee]

well, this was just a small problem and it has been fixed. I still don't know whether a flatwound will unravel once it is cut so I guess I'll just have to try it......I have some older flats on another bass so sometime down the line (in a month or two) I will install them on my headless and then I'll find out firsthand. I'll make sure to finish this thread with an answer.....though I'm pretty sure the tapewounds would unravel so I won't try those....

Originally Posted by 7flat5

So, this was the problem? I love the look of those ABM headless sets, and the string flexibility (no double-ball Steiny strings) is its main strength, so I'm interested in how this came down. Did you install flats? Everybody (mostly) happy?

[A440Hz]

OK, so the idea of soldering roundwounds has been mentioned. I would guess that you could solder flatwounds, too.

I would probably find the cut point, mark it with a Sharpie, then move the string away from the bass and soldier a bit right at the cut point, then (of course) cut beyond the solder.

But the other thing that occurred to me is that tapewounds are nylon, and nylon rope is frequently "whipped" (sealed) with heat. You might could use a soldering iron, but alternately, a small torch. I have both a propane torch for plumbing, but also a frou-frou kitchen torch for creme brulee. The metrosexual torch uses butane. That might be something that works. Or, a lighter. That's a cheaper option. But makes a lousy creme brulee.

[Meatrus]

Originally Posted by loopee

Meatrus - you are the one with the problem - this is the only reply you will get from me - I will not join you in the BS - YOU need to grow up -

By the way, this bass is a custom "oneofakind" bass, so it doesn't matter whether you see a photo of it or not.....you can always google ABM bridges if you are interested......

There is a law on TB - you don't insult other TBer's equipment - and calling it crap is an insult - if you had any idea what ABM headless systems are you would not have said it - besides, every piece of equipment needs to be looked at and adjusted every once in a while and I've had this bass 6 years before anything needed adjustment so I certainly wouldn't call it crap

By the way, I've been playing bass and guitar for over 45 years - I could fix my own equipment before you're parents were born and I know how to change strings.....
See? You still have it wrong!!!!! What I was asking was whether a string would unravel once it has been cut...............

I will not reply to any more or your replies so don't even bother

Ok, I wont expect an answer to how you acted or to this post. The world is full of people like you, fortunately for me I have never managed to meet one quite so insane on here before, and really hope not to meet another.

All I can say is I never meant you to take it the way you have managed to turn it into (I HONESTLY never meant to offend you, hence the smiley, and joking way of saying it). But needles to say I'm left very confused and more than a little shocked by this experience .

[loopee]

well, I never thought of soldering strings before this but I guess you could look at it as a fraying shoelace. You are quite right, a lighter would probably do the trick. Metrosexual frou frou torch for creme brulee, LOL.....I just love it......

Originally Posted by A440Hz

OK, so the idea of soldering roundwounds has been mentioned. I would guess that you could solder flatwounds, too.

I would probably find the cut point, mark it with a Sharpie, then move the string away from the bass and soldier a bit right at the cut point, then (of course) cut beyond the solder.

But the other thing that occurred to me is that tapewounds are nylon, and nylon rope is frequently "whipped" (sealed) with heat. You might could use a soldering iron, but alternately, a small torch. I have both a propane torch for plumbing, but also a frou-frou kitchen torch for creme brulee. The metrosexual torch uses butane. That might be something that works. Or, a lighter. That's a cheaper option. But makes a lousy creme brulee.