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05-03-2006, 09:25 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Dallas, TX | | Frayed silk wrappings annoy me
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It's my fault really for wanting to try the same set of strings on different basses that it gets frayed.
Has anyone found an easy way to quickly remove it or 'groom' it so it looks clean?
Once removed, I know the exposed string ends could damage the tuning posts, so wonder what you guys thinks could be used to neatly wrap the string end. Or better yet, what could be used to wrap up the tuning post in order to protect it from the exposed ends?
Maybe it doesn't matter. Comments, anyone?
[Yes, I've already did a search for this topic] | 
05-03-2006, 10:42 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Philadelphia, PA | | | There are strings that are made without the silk, so I wouldn't know whether or not it would cause damage. Most of my basses have strings with no silk. | 
05-03-2006, 11:51 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Madison, NJ | | | I use D'Addario XL's and Prosteels. No silks there. No harm, no foul.
But no, I haven't found a way to remove them.
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05-03-2006, 12:39 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Millcreek Township, UT | | | My first thought was to use a lighter, but that might not be the best idea.
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05-03-2006, 08:07 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Dallas, TX | | | Using a razor I guess would be the best way to remove it.
What about keeping it from fraying in the first place. Anyone tried elmer's glue with success? Or can you guys think of something like liquid nylon (is there such a thing?) where you dip the end into it then when it dries, it forms a coating that's flexible but doesn't rub off too easily? | 
05-03-2006, 08:23 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Urbana, IL | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by jazzmonk Using a razor I guess would be the best way to remove it.
What about keeping it from fraying in the first place. Anyone tried elmer's glue with success? Or can you guys think of something like liquid nylon (is there such a thing?) where you dip the end into it then when it dries, it forms a coating that's flexible but doesn't rub off too easily? | Why not use rubber cement?
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05-04-2006, 03:15 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Suffolk, Virginia | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by Atoz My first thought was to use a lighter, but that might not be the best idea. | Lighters work fine, just do "quick strokes" with the lighter so you don't screw up the string. | 
05-06-2006, 07:12 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2005 Location: Johnson City, TN | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by Trevorus Why not use rubber cement? | I've got some "electrician's tape in a can" that is fairly thin and definitely flexible. It should be similar to rubber cement but not as thick and stringy. Think I'll try it out. | 
05-06-2006, 10:49 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Dallas, TX | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by ldervish I've got some "electrician's tape in a can" that is fairly thin and definitely flexible. It should be similar to rubber cement but not as thick and stringy. Think I'll try it out. | Try it man! We can all benefit from your experiment.
This thread ( String treatment experiment) caught my attention. Maybe the "wax-based teflon bicycle chain lube" is worth a try. I'm going to see if I can find something like it at the bicycle store. | 
05-09-2006, 11:07 PM
| | | Hey there... if you can find heat shrink tubing in your area (the kind that shrinks on heat, eg from a hot air gun or a lighter, used to cover solder joints on wires), that may be worth a try. Just have to get a large enough diameter...
Edit: I mean large enough diameter for use on the string ends, not the tuning post, though that might be possible as well if you have 'split-post' tuning posts like Fender's etc. just shrink tubing on both 'halves' of the post and its 'protected' 
Last edited by squidospyder : 05-09-2006 at 11:14 PM.
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