Frets get really sharp around fifth fret

[OhHeyThere]

It was my first time restringing and I used some D'addario nickel wound medium gauge that, in their own, sound great. I guess I restringed it wrong because my frets get pretty sharp, especially the E string, around the fifth fret and on when the open string is tuned perfectly. It looks like some of the E and A strings and wrapped around themselves up at the headstock, and it looks like I left them pretty long. Are those the major problems? I know they are definitely not helping, but some other suggestions would be fantastic as well, just to be safe for my next restringing later this week. Thanks a lot.

[David1234]

This is called intonation, and nearly every electric bass has an adjustable bridge to allow you to compensate for how different strings give different intonation. You've re-stringed it fine, but haven't finished the job yet!

If the frets seem sharp, then they are! Which means that the bridge saddle under that string needs to be moved back further from the frets.

When I'm adjusting I use the 12th fret as my main reference point, since it's easy to do a quick comparison between the harmonic note there and the fretted note.

I write down how far each string seems to be out, then adjust the worst string til it's right, and count how many turns of a screw or millimetres of movement were required, then the other strings can be done quicker since their adjustments will usually be in proportion.

Every time you change string types (brand or gauge) you will need to check this.

[Dbassmon]

an electronic tuner will allow you to get this perfect.
Play the harmonic at the 12 fret, tune the bass based on that note. compare it to the fretted note at the 12th fret. If it is sharp, it means the distance from the 12th fret to the bridge saddle is too short, turn the screw clockwise (move the saddle away from the neck), re-tune for the 12 fret harmonic and retest. When you have it perfect, repeat for the remaining strings. Once you settle on a brand of strings, it should remain pretty much in tune from now on (for the most part)

[OhHeyThere]

Originally Posted by David1234

This is called intonation, and nearly every electric bass has an adjustable bridge to allow you to compensate for how different strings give different intonation. You've re-stringed it fine, but haven't finished the job yet!

If the frets seem sharp, then they are! Which means that the bridge saddle under that string needs to be moved back further from the frets.

When I'm adjusting I use the 12th fret as my main reference point, since it's easy to do a quick comparison between the harmonic note there and the fretted note.

I write down how far each string seems to be out, then adjust the worst string til it's right, and count how many turns of a screw or millimetres of movement were required, then the other strings can be done quicker since their adjustments will usually be in proportion.

Every time you change string types (brand or gauge) you will need to check this.

I appreciate the help, but I tried this and it didn't work .

[OhHeyThere]

Originally Posted by David1234

This is called intonation, and nearly every electric bass has an adjustable bridge to allow you to compensate for how different strings give different intonation. You've re-stringed it fine, but haven't finished the job yet!

If the frets seem sharp, then they are! Which means that the bridge saddle under that string needs to be moved back further from the frets.

When I'm adjusting I use the 12th fret as my main reference point, since it's easy to do a quick comparison between the harmonic note there and the fretted note.

I write down how far each string seems to be out, then adjust the worst string til it's right, and count how many turns of a screw or millimetres of movement were required, then the other strings can be done quicker since their adjustments will usually be in proportion.

Every time you change string types (brand or gauge) you will need to check this.

Scratch that last post, it worked for the D and G strings. The A string is almost there but not making it and the E string is still very sharp after adjusting it as much as I can. Is there anything else that could help them, or do those strings need to be replaced? Also, I would like to add in that I'm pretty sure the E string is done for, I did a terrible job since it was the first string I put on, and the A string has a lot wrapped around, but it looks perfectly fine.

[VinceS]

Originally Posted by OhHeyThere

Scratch that last post, it worked for the D and G strings. The A string is almost there but not making it and the E string is still very sharp after adjusting it as much as I can. Is there anything else that could help them, or do those strings need to be replaced? Also, I would like to add in that I'm pretty sure the E string is done for, I did a terrible job since it was the first string I put on, and the A string has a lot wrapped around, but it looks perfectly fine.

Try raising the height of the string that won't intonate properly.

[OhHeyThere]

Originally Posted by VinceS

Try raising the height of the string that won't intonate properly.

It's at the top of the screw already

[CapnSev]

Sounds like you need to visit the repairman. Let a professional do it.

[dan stanton]

You should have 2 adjustments on your bottom bridge. Lower the strings and use the "length" adjustment to intonate. The up and down adjustment adjusts the action, and the length adjustment adjusts the intonation.

[R. Laevinus]

Originally Posted by OhHeyThere

It's at the top of the screw already

Which screw? There are (generally) three for each string - one long one that runs parallel to the body, and two smaller ones that run more or less perpendicular.

The long one that goes through the saddle (ie the block under the string), moves it forward and back along the string's length. This is usually the screw you want to use to adjust intonation - the further back it is, the flatter the fretted note will be.

The two small screws run through the saddle and go down - they adjust how high the saddle is, thus raising or lowering the string. These are usually used to adjust to a player's preference, and also to combat fret buzz by raising the string.

If the saddle is as far back as it will go, and the fretted note is still too sharp, I'd suggest lowering the saddle a couple of millimeters and seeing if that helps matters. Or raising it, if the saddle is really low. Basically try to bring it back to an equilibrium.

As per your tuning peg issues, that could potentially be a problem, and I would suggest you rectify it before you do anything else. It's really not a big deal to unwind the strings, cut off a length, and rewind them. When you do, make sure that the winds don't overlap, that they spiral DOWN the post, and that they don't go past the curved part of the post. It may take a couple of tries to get it right, so be patient and don't cut off too much at a time - you can always cut a string, but you can't make it longer!

I wouldn't worry about having ruined your string in tuning it, though - unless you tied it in knots and/or went saltwater fishing with it, it should be fine.

Intonation and stringing guides can be found all over the internet. I'd suggest reading over a few if you're new at this - there's no shame in it!

Lastly - what kind of bass are you playing? Knowing this may help us help you.

[Jaco who?]

Originally Posted by R. Laevinus

As per your tuning peg issues, that could potentially be a problem, and I would suggest you rectify it before you do anything else. It's really not a big deal to unwind the strings, cut off a length, and rewind them. When you do, make sure that the winds don't overlap, that they spiral DOWN the post, and that they don't go past the curved part of the post. It may take a couple of tries to get it right, so be patient and don't cut off too much at a time - you can always cut a string, but you can't make it longer!

I wouldn't worry about having ruined your string in tuning it, though - unless you tied it in knots and/or went saltwater fishing with it, it should be fine.

Yes, do that, and also get the saddle height on all strings to match the radius of the fretboard, then go back and intonate the saddles.

[Thunder Pulse]

You should change the title of your thread to "Notes get really sharp around fifth fret."

I clicked on the thread thinking it was going to be about the edges of the frets feeling sharp on the fingerboard, but it's clearly not about that.

[OhHeyThere]

Originally Posted by R. Laevinus

Which screw? There are (generally) three for each string - one long one that runs parallel to the body, and two smaller ones that run more or less perpendicular.

The long one that goes through the saddle (ie the block under the string), moves it forward and back along the string's length. This is usually the screw you want to use to adjust intonation - the further back it is, the flatter the fretted note will be.

The two small screws run through the saddle and go down - they adjust how high the saddle is, thus raising or lowering the string. These are usually used to adjust to a player's preference, and also to combat fret buzz by raising the string.

If the saddle is as far back as it will go, and the fretted note is still too sharp, I'd suggest lowering the saddle a couple of millimeters and seeing if that helps matters. Or raising it, if the saddle is really low. Basically try to bring it back to an equilibrium.

As per your tuning peg issues, that could potentially be a problem, and I would suggest you rectify it before you do anything else. It's really not a big deal to unwind the strings, cut off a length, and rewind them. When you do, make sure that the winds don't overlap, that they spiral DOWN the post, and that they don't go past the curved part of the post. It may take a couple of tries to get it right, so be patient and don't cut off too much at a time - you can always cut a string, but you can't make it longer!

I wouldn't worry about having ruined your string in tuning it, though - unless you tied it in knots and/or went saltwater fishing with it, it should be fine.

Intonation and stringing guides can be found all over the internet. I'd suggest reading over a few if you're new at this - there's no shame in it!

Lastly - what kind of bass are you playing? Knowing this may help us help you.

The tuning seems to stay in fine, surprisingly. It's a pretty garbage bass, a 140 dollar Dean Edge. After 5 years of viola I just wanted a cheap instrument to begin on. Anyway, I lowered the action, which I should have done in the first place, and all of the strings are perfect in pitch now except the low E, which is still a tad sharp and at the end of the little slots for moving the saddle back and forth.

[walterw]

Originally Posted by OhHeyThere

Anyway, I lowered the action, which I should have done in the first place, and all of the strings are perfect in pitch now except the low E, which is still a tad sharp and at the end of the little slots for moving the saddle back and forth.

now we're getting somewhere!

push down on that E string where it first meets the saddle and the nut, so that there's no curving up towards the middle. you want the strings to be dead straight along their vibrating length, instead of ramping up from each end.

[steveksux]

Originally Posted by walterw

now we're getting somewhere!

push down on that E string where it first meets the saddle and the nut, so that there's no curving up towards the middle. you want the strings to be dead straight along their vibrating length, instead of ramping up from each end.

+2.

Do it at the nut and the bridge. This IMO is a huge part of "new strings stretching". I don't believe they stretch, what they do is bend at both ends (nut and bridge) to eventually form a straight line down the neck. If you do a sloppy job of winding, they can also slip a bit.

I do this, and new strings do not go out of tune for me. They're good right out of the box.

Randy

[OhHeyThere]

Originally Posted by steveksux

+2.

Do it at the nut and the bridge. This IMO is a huge part of "new strings stretching". I don't believe they stretch, what they do is bend at both ends (nut and bridge) to eventually form a straight line down the neck. If you do a sloppy job of winding, they can also slip a bit.

I do this, and new strings do not go out of tune for me. They're good right out of the box.

Randy

They have already been on for a couple of days and are fully stretched, they were never really positioned wrongly on the nut or saddle. Also, they aren't going out of tune, it's the intonation as the other great members of this site have helped me discover.