going from rounds to flats...

[meatwad]

Hey all! I bought a new AM Std Precision the other day, and it has the stock "Fender® USA Super Bass 8250M, NPS, (.045, .065, .085, .110TW Gauges)" still on it for now. My goal is to switch to flats without having to adjust the trussrod. What gauge D'Addario Chromes would be closest in tension to the factory strings? Perhaps any other brand you may recommend from experience?

Sorry if this has been covered before, searching turned up nothing. Thanks!

[twspalm]

Got the same bass. Tried a few different strings but here's what I like:

D'Addario XL Chromes ECB82 Medium Gauge Long Scale

String 1 2 3 4
Gauge .050 .070 .085 .105
tension 55 60.2 50.2 41.5

[meatwad]

Originally Posted by twspalm

Got the same bass. Tried a few different strings but here's what I like:

D'Addario XL Chromes ECB82 Medium Gauge Long Scale

String 1 2 3 4
Gauge .050 .070 .085 .105
tension 55 60.2 50.2 41.5

So this set has similar tension to the factory strings?

[ixlramp]

Tension is determined by unit mass (unit weight), so choose a set of Chromes with similar unit mass. The unit mass of the Fender NPS is unknown but we could approximate it from D'Addario NPS. So using the daddario tension chart pdf ...

The best match string for string is Chromes 45 65 85 110 You could order single strings, this will get you closest in tension.

The Chromes sets are 45 65 80 100 or 50 70 85 105. since Chromes are slightly heavier at the same gauge the I get the feeling that the closest tension matching set would be 45 65 80 100, the tension may be a little lower. The 50-105 set will be tighter, the D and G much tighter. I recommend 45-100.

This is all assuming Fender NPS are close in mass to D'Addario XL nickels.

[Chrisk-K]

Check D'addario Web page and you'll find tension numbers for their strings.

[fontez5]

I'd recommend the Labella Jamerson flats for that baby, but they are pretty high tension strings. Not sure how they'd feel against the set you've got on there now but they've treated my P real nice-like in the last year that I've had them on. Super thumpy yet fun as heck to play.

I've got those on my P (760M is the model) and the 760FL on my G&L. The FL set is lower tension and also sound amazing, so you really can't go wrong with either. If you're used to lighter gauge rounds definitely try the 760FL first.

Cheers!

[meatwad]

Alright, so I ordered some Chromes with the .040 G string. I'm kinda hoping these actually will pull the neck into a bow just a tad, just enough to keep me from having to adjust the trussrod to get the buzz out of the 3rd fret G on the E string.

My only suggestion to Fender that could possibly improve on these basses at all would be to add a MusicMan-type adjustment nut for body-end trussrod tweaks.

Well, I'll post my findings as soon as they develope.

[Kael]

Originally Posted by meatwad

Alright, so I ordered some Chromes with the .040 G string. I'm kinda hoping these actually will pull the neck into a bow just a tad, just enough to keep me from having to adjust the trussrod to get the buzz out of the 3rd fret G on the E string.

Those will probably be closest to the tension you have now. Honestly though, you will still probably want to tweak the truss rod some. Flats in general have higher tension and I wouldn't be surprised if the light gauge chromes are a bit higher tension than what you have now. Basses will almost always need to be re-setup when switching to different strings.

[OldDog52]

Originally Posted by meatwad

Alright, so I ordered some Chromes with the .040 G string. I'm kinda hoping these actually will pull the neck into a bow just a tad, just enough to keep me from having to adjust the trussrod to get the buzz out of the 3rd fret G on the E string.

My only suggestion to Fender that could possibly improve on these basses at all would be to add a MusicMan-type adjustment nut for body-end trussrod tweaks.

Well, I'll post my findings as soon as they develope.

Regular Long Scale D'Addario Chromes did not fit my MIA P STD when strung thru-body. Silk on the nut. I had to get Super Long Scale Chromes, which fit ok thru-body but the E has all the silk around the tuning peg.

D'Addario Chromes ECB80SL are .040 .060 .075 .095. Super Light Gauge, Super Long Scale. I bet those are closer tension-wise to the Fender strings.

[meatwad]

Could the silk be trimmed on the string? Seems like Ive heard of folks doing that before...

[OldDog52]

Originally Posted by meatwad

Could the silk be trimmed on the string? Seems like Ive heard of folks doing that before...

That worked on A D G but not so much on the E. On the E the string started tapering down dead center on the nut. I was afraid it would damage the nut if left that way long term.

[klokker]

Originally Posted by meatwad

My only suggestion to Fender that could possibly improve on these basses at all would be to add a MusicMan-type adjustment nut for body-end trussrod tweaks.

What's the big deal about adjusting the truss rod? I have an American Standard P-bass and it couldn't be easier.

I mean you can handle this as you please, but with the tool that comes with it, its super easy. I'd just get the strings I like and make the necessary adjustments.

[prd004]

Just the strings you want to use, and adjust the truss, no problem!

[OldDog52]

Be careful not to chip the pickguard with the truss rod tool like I did the first time I used it. The tool got "stuck" and when I pulled it suddenly let go and hit the edge of the pickguard. (I now have a new mint PG instead of the original factory white. With black screws and knobs. )

[meatwad]

Interesting, you don't have to remove the neck anymore?

[Lazarus.Bird]

Remove the neck? You need to go read the Drozd bass setup guide. Adjusting your truss rod is like changing your oil. If you're interested in basses you should know how to do it, and once you learn how it's quite easy

[klokker]

Originally Posted by meatwad

Interesting, you don't have to remove the neck anymore?

Not at all. String height, intonation, and truss rod tools come with the bass. The specs are in the owners manual if you want to adjust it to what they think it should be, or do your own thing.

[meatwad]

I know that sounded like a dumba$$ question on my part, all apologies.

Thing is, I was once a devout follower of Fender, but, as a (then) budding young bassist, eventually got tired of the inconsistent quality of their (then) new stuff (think late eighties/early nineties), and was going through 70's CBS Jazzes like bubble gum. The last Precision I payed any attention to was my old '78, and I got rid of it over a decade ago because it was literally falling apart. Not to mention the '97 USA Roadhouse Strat with a bottomed out trussrod...

I went EBMM, and never looked back. At all. Not even for a second. But studio producers and engineers would sometimes ask, "where's the Fender?", and I got tired of tracking down a certain Precision with flats to get the job. I kept reading and hearing how 2008 was a magical turning point for FMIC, I liked what I saw, and loved how the new Precisions felt. So I bought one.

So, I am loving my new Precision! I'm just not entirely familiar with how Fender has evolved in recent years, but so far, it seems like they finally got their crap together.

I know, this is the "strings" section of the forum. Sorry if I got OT.

[meatwad]

Originally Posted by Lazarus.Bird

Remove the neck? You need to go read the Drozd bass setup guide. Adjusting your truss rod is like changing your oil. If you're interested in basses you should know how to do it, and once you learn how it's quite easy

BTW, I know how to set up all my instruments, including adjusting a trussrod. Just consider me an old dog at 37, with narrow-minded tunnel vision, who assumes nothing ever changes, especially the bad stuff.

[Lazarus.Bird]

Ah, gotcha! Rereading my post I realize it might have came off a bit harsh but that was not my intention. I'm too young to know there was ever actually a time that truss rod adjustments involved removing the neck :P