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  #1  
Old 10-19-2011, 06:38 PM
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A Great Tutorial on String Changes from Dunlop!

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I wish I would've had high speed internet and video's like this when I started playing bass!

RESTRING: WITH GARY BRAWER - BASS GUITAR - YouTube
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  #2  
Old 10-19-2011, 07:57 PM
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The A string advice alone could be worth a set or two or strings to many bass players.

I'm not a fan of stretching the strings. Just keep tuning them up until they stay there.
  #3  
Old 10-19-2011, 10:00 PM
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Never had a problem with buzzing on my A string, but it's good to know what to do.

Also, it's just an aesthetic thing, but I like to have equal windings on all my tuner pegs. So if I ever had to fix my A like he suggests, all my strings would have to follow suit.

And I don't like to stretch my strings either. Bass or guitar.
  #4  
Old 10-19-2011, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by madbassplaya View Post
I wish I would've had high speed internet and video's like this when I started playing bass!

RESTRING: WITH GARY BRAWER - BASS GUITAR - YouTube
But just think of all the knowledege and valuable experience we've gained from screwing things up the first time.
  #5  
Old 10-20-2011, 09:29 AM
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I was surprised to see him hand wind the string, before he used the tuning peg... to me, it looks like a good way to introduce twist into the sting.
FIshheadjoe
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  #6  
Old 10-20-2011, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Fishheadjoe View Post
I was surprised to see him hand wind the string, before he used the tuning peg... to me, it looks like a good way to introduce twist into the sting.
FIshheadjoe
I've always done it that way without any problems. But, of course, now that I know that a potential problem can arise, I'll probably be having issues all the time!
  #7  
Old 10-20-2011, 02:00 PM
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I've always done it that way without any problems. But, of course, now that I know that a potential problem can arise, I'll probably be having issues all the time!
As long as its a hex core string, you shouldn't have a problem with it.
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  #8  
Old 10-20-2011, 02:11 PM
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As long as you have the string loose in the bridge hole the string will unwind any twists. Where people get into problems is when they wrap the strings around the tuner by hand, and don't allow it to untwist at the bridge.

At least 75% of the time when I get a used bass and put new strings on it 2 or more of the strings are twisted badly. Usually the lower strings.
  #9  
Old 10-20-2011, 02:16 PM
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As long as you have the string loose in the bridge hole the string will unwind any twists. Where people get into problems is when they wrap the strings around the tuner by hand, and don't allow it to untwist at the bridge.

At least 75% of the time when I get a used bass and put new strings on it 2 or more of the strings are twisted badly. Usually the lower strings.
That makes sense. Thanks for sharing that info bro!

I like the penciling the nut technique. I had never heard of that.
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  #10  
Old 10-20-2011, 02:31 PM
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Cool but I will add this, he has seemingly forgotten about setting the string break angles at the bridge. It's not something that's a usual necessity for guitarists, but on bass, it makes a big difference to the action/intonation/tuning stability/set-up. If you want the optimal set-up you can achieve on bass, setting that break angle over the saddles is pretty much an essential part of restringing.
  #11  
Old 10-20-2011, 02:39 PM
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I like the penciling the nut technique. I had never heard of that.
I remember that one from my violin days, so I figure it might also be well-known among doublers.
  #12  
Old 10-20-2011, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Skitch it! View Post
Cool but I will add this, he has seemingly forgotten about setting the string break angles at the bridge. It's not something that's a usual necessity for guitarists, but on bass, it makes a big difference to the action/intonation/tuning stability/set-up. If you want the optimal set-up you can achieve on bass, setting that break angle over the saddles is pretty much an essential part of restringing.
Yes, but this wasn't a set up video. Considering that you're installing the same brand and gauge on your bass you shouldn't have to do much of a set up if any.
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Old 10-20-2011, 03:05 PM
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Yes, but this wasn't a set up video. Considering that you're installing the same brand and gauge on your bass you shouldn't have to do much of a set up if any.
I've used the same gauge and brand for years and found there is always a little something to adjust between each set. But setting that break angle is a biggie, I'm not detracting from the rest of his tutorial, but I feel he is used to restringing/setting up guitars, not basses.
  #14  
Old 10-20-2011, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Skitch it! View Post
I've used the same gauge and brand for years and found there is always a little something to adjust between each set. But setting that break angle is a biggie, I'm not detracting from the rest of his tutorial, but I feel he is used to restringing/setting up guitars, not basses.
I guess it depends on what bridge type you have to.
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by madbassplaya View Post
I guess it depends on what bridge type you have to.
If your referring to basses, no. Setting that break angle makes a big big difference to set-up and play-ability, be it whatever bass, whatever bridge. Because of a bass strings rigidity, without setting that angle and seating the string properly they tend to curve over the saddle. As soon as you set that angle on each string after tuning up to pitch, you'll notice the action drops by around 2mm immediately after the string is seated properly. No curve, more tuning stability, better action, better everything.
  #16  
Old 10-21-2011, 11:35 AM
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By setting the break angle, do you mean physically bending the string? Similar to what he does before he sets the string in the tuning peg?

I've never done any adjustments at the bridge after just changing strings.
  #17  
Old 10-21-2011, 12:28 PM
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Skitch would you give us a run down on what you mean and how you do it properly. I almost always have to do some adjusting to my neck and bridge when I restring but I'm not sure about the specifics of what you call "break angle".
  #18  
Old 10-21-2011, 02:50 PM
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Yep, I should have explained it previously really but didn't think to.

When you restring, bring the new set up to tuned pitch/tension, play them for a minute or two and let them stretch in a little.

Re-tune them all up to pitch, then put your thumb on the E (or B on a 5, not that the order matters for this) string around a centimeter in front of the saddle and press the string directly down (toward the body) 2-3mm, just enough pressure to set that break/seating angle.

Repeat for all the other strings, thumb press etc. Re-tune them all to pitch and play/check it. You will notice the action has dropped around 2mm lower now that the curvature of the string over the saddle has been taken out, and the strings are seated properly with that angle.

Set everything up from there - preferred action/intonation/neck adjustment/whatever. You get a much truer representation of how well your bass can set up from that point ime/imo.

My 2 cents anyway, it's something that was explained in a set-up clinic back in the '90s, makes quite a difference though.
  #19  
Old 10-21-2011, 03:07 PM
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My 2 cents anyway, it's something that was explained in a set-up clinic back in the '90s, makes quite a difference though.
I see what you're saying. I thought you meant adjusting your bridge saddle height to adjust your breaking angle.
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  #20  
Old 10-22-2011, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Skitch it! View Post
Yep, I should have explained it previously really but didn't think to.

When you restring, bring the new set up to tuned pitch/tension, play them for a minute or two and let them stretch in a little.

Re-tune them all up to pitch, then put your thumb on the E (or B on a 5, not that the order matters for this) string around a centimeter in front of the saddle and press the string directly down (toward the body) 2-3mm, just enough pressure to set that break/seating angle.

Repeat for all the other strings, thumb press etc. Re-tune them all to pitch and play/check it. You will notice the action has dropped around 2mm lower now that the curvature of the string over the saddle has been taken out, and the strings are seated properly with that angle.

Set everything up from there - preferred action/intonation/neck adjustment/whatever. You get a much truer representation of how well your bass can set up from that point ime/imo.

My 2 cents anyway, it's something that was explained in a set-up clinic back in the '90s, makes quite a difference though.
Thanks, much appreciated.
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