How heavy do i need to go as bass guitar picker?

RBX4 · #1 09-25-2011, 10:34 PM

Frustrated.. So tired of not getting the right tension :-(

grendle · #2 09-25-2011, 10:56 PM

What are you tuning to? You may want to go heavier or lighter on your picks to get the feel you want. I use 45-105 and don't have any issues.

RBX4 · #3 09-25-2011, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grendle

What are you tuning to? You may want to go heavier or lighter on your picks to get the feel you want. I use 45-105 and don't have any issues.

Dunlop big stubbys.. My problem is my bass on drop d ( the low e string ) and my other bass on e flat..

grendle · #4 09-25-2011, 11:16 PM

What are you getting that you don't like?

knuckle_head · #5 09-25-2011, 11:33 PM

What gauges were you using before dropping? Was the tension okay with those gauges and was your technique the same as it is now?

PBnJBassist · #6 09-25-2011, 11:49 PM

I've seen your other thread in your search for the highest tension possible, so my advice is to take the road less traveled and tune up to standard, use a heavy set and a drop-tune pedal. Who knows, you might even like it.

seanm · #7 09-26-2011, 12:05 AM

For the Eb, can you tune standard and use drop Eb? You should be able to use almost any standard set for drop D. A .110 *can* help, but shouldn't be necessary.

madbassplaya · #8 09-26-2011, 12:08 AM

Also, has your bass been set up professionally? Are you using good technique?

PBnJBassist · #9 09-26-2011, 01:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seanm

For the Eb, can you tune standard and use drop Eb? You should be able to use almost any standard set for drop D. A .110 *can* help, but shouldn't be necessary.

The OP has another thread where he uses a .118 for drop "D" and it's still too floppy for his tastes. A Drop tuning pedal may be going a bit overboard, but using a low "B" and tuning it up might still be a bit loose for this guy's flavor. I say go with heavy Rotosounds custom set and call it a day, either that or have a custom built neck that can handle extreme tension. From what I've read from the OP's other thread, he wants the strings to vibrate with as little movement as possible. Since he's a "heavy picker" I would suggest using felt picks and EQ the amp to give it as much mids & treble as possible and drought the action dangerously low to knock in some clanking frets to give you whatever you might have lost changing pick material. It's just a suggestion though.

I, myself, adore heavy gauges and tight tension, but this is the first I've seen such a need for actual bridge cables. Either way, rock on and I hope you (the OP) find the strings you're searching for.

**251** · #10 09-26-2011, 06:44 AM

build a string set with the tension you want;
http://circlekstrings.com/CKSIMAGES/...nsionChart.pdf

Contact them for advice via their website;
Circle K Strings - Before You Buy

or PM knucklehead on this board.

tylerwylie · #11 09-26-2011, 07:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PBnJBassist

I, myself, adore heavy gauges and tight tension, but this is the first I've seen such a need for actual bridge cables. Either way, rock on and I hope you (the OP) find the strings you're searching for.

Couldn't stop laughing.

superqwertyboy · #12 09-26-2011, 08:24 AM

a 35" scale will tighten up the strings. Depending on how "experimental" you want to go, you could try getting a box of washers from a hardware store (that are just large enough that the string will pass through, but not the ball) and make little stacks. try maybe 7-10, put them over the string before you put it through the bridge. this will lengthen the overall length of the string, raising the tension required for a given note.

Keep in mind that you will ruin the finish on your experiment bass, but once tuned... you can glue/JB weld/brase them together and grind them to fit.

knuckle_head · #13 09-26-2011, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superqwertyboy

a 35" scale will tighten up the strings. Depending on how "experimental" you want to go, you could try getting a box of washers from a hardware store (that are just large enough that the string will pass through, but not the ball) and make little stacks. try maybe 7-10, put them over the string before you put it through the bridge. this will lengthen the overall length of the string, raising the tension required for a given note.

Keep in mind that you will ruin the finish on your experiment bass, but once tuned... you can glue/JB weld/brase them together and grind them to fit.

This doesn't change the tension of the string. It only pushes the ball end further away from the saddle. The length of string between the nut and saddle will remain the same and so will the string's tension unless he tunes to a higher pitch.

A 35" scale length will help but he can get there with the bass he has I bet.

rockstarbassist · #14 09-26-2011, 08:51 AM

You need a new bass tech. This is like your 3rd+ thread on this same issue, at least. Drop D is not very difficult even with a standard .105, much less a custom .118 which on my NS-5 can do drop C, drop B, drop Bb basically on the "same" setup. I prefer the .124 but this has actually worked ok. It's not a string or tension issue at this point. Your bass be broken.

madbassplaya · #15 09-26-2011, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knuckle_head

This doesn't change the tension of the string. It only pushes the ball end further away from the saddle. The length of string between the nut and saddle will remain the same and so will the string's tension unless he tunes to a higher pitch.

A 35" scale length will help but he can get there with the bass he has I bet.

Agreed. That trick has never worked and Gary Willis is dead wrong for publishing such lies in his book.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockstarbassist

You need a new bass tech. This is like your 3rd+ thread on this same issue, at least. Drop D is not very difficult even with a standard .105, much less a custom .118 which on my NS-5 can do drop C, drop B, drop Bb basically on the "same" setup. I prefer the .124 but this has actually worked ok. It's not a string or tension issue at this point. Your bass be broken.

Agreed. Take it in to a pro. I've played in Drop C with standard .105's without problems.

As stated before, it's a set up or technique issue.

RBX4 · #16 09-26-2011, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madbassplaya

Also, has your bass been set up professionally? Are you using good technique?

I suppose my technique is good, I pick like Jason newsted, and I never had this problem with tension till I sold my sterlings for fender jazzes.. I believe I just need to go heavier on the strings to satisfy myself

RBX4 · #17 09-26-2011, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seanm

For the Eb, can you tune standard and use drop Eb? You should be able to use almost any standard set for drop D. A .110 *can* help, but shouldn't be necessary.

Those strings I used for e flat on my sb14 that I sold for a jazz bass but the jazz bass seems to want heavier strings :-(

RBX4 · #18 09-26-2011, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knuckle_head

What gauges were you using before dropping? Was the tension okay with those gauges and was your technique the same as it is now?

With my sterlings I had no problem with tension.. Now that I sold them off for fender jazzes these basses don't agree with average tension. Honestly I don't get it.

RBX4 · #19 09-26-2011, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grendle

What are you getting that you don't like?

Fret buzz.. That the bass doesn't agree with that gauge of strings

knuckle_head · #20 09-26-2011, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RBX4

With my sterlings I had no problem with tension.. Now that I sold them off for fender jazzes these basses don't agree with average tension. Honestly I don't get it.

MMs have a more stalwart neck as compared to a Jazz IME - do you do your setups or does someone else?

The Fenders are up to it - you aren't asking for something they are incapable of - but if you're going from standard gauges/tension/tuning to what you prefer there will need to be some serious tweaking done to the bass.