How to properly install Dr Hi-Beams??

beelzelboss · #1 04-19-2009, 05:45 PM

I am about to put new strings on my bass guitar, an Ibanez srx 400. Putting DR Hi-Beams but as soon as i open the package a little **** falls out that says crip before cut. I have to idea what this means as I usually have my guitar teacher re string my guitar. Any ideas?

Thanks

~craig

greenboy · #2 04-19-2009, 05:51 PM

Have mom show you how to tie your own shoes now that you are bigger? ; }

They are pretty much like any string. Cut 'em off long enough to get a few wraps around the tuning post. Crimping pretty much happens using any decent sidecutter tool. Look at the FAQ just above for more detail.

Back when I first wanted to play an instrument, poor old schmoes put strings on. Now specialists install them. Amazing ; }

beelzelboss · #3 04-19-2009, 06:02 PM

haha, yea you got the right idea with mom..... faq above? I'm totally missing what you are talking about.
The only other thing that i can think of to ask is how many inches should i cut it past the tuning peg? I was always told three wraps (and never got to do it because the teacher never knew) on here but i have no idea are many inches that is. How far to you guys cut it?

UncleFluffy · #4 04-19-2009, 06:05 PM

thesteve · #5 04-19-2009, 06:06 PM

This is how I restring all of my instruments (bass, electric guitar, acoustic guitar, whatever). This might not be the best method, but it works for me.

I pull the string tight though the tuning peg, then place my thumb down on the nut and pull the string (with my thumb) towards the bridge the distance of one fret. I do this for every string and this typically gets me one and a half to three wraps around the peg depending on the string itself. I did this same method when I had hi-beams on my bass and I never had any issues.

beelzelboss · #6 04-19-2009, 06:14 PM

thesteve thats an interesting concept. Trying to imagine it and it sounds pretty good, except that my A string the tuning peg is like at least 5 inches from the nut so that could turn out to be a problem. But i have a feeling I'm missing exactly what your saying. How many inches would it be thats my only problem of trying to figure it out! Thanks for all the feedback so far!

Oh btw found what you were talking about in the faq, kinda feel a little silly but that still didn't tell exactly what i needed.

greenboy · #7 04-19-2009, 06:20 PM

4 inches, typically.

Rocky McDougall · #8 04-19-2009, 06:49 PM

Much better to cut it too long than too short. As you wind the string you want it to go in downward spiral so that the string exits as low as possible off the tuning post. Please don't end up with string ends sticking up like weeds growing out of you headstock, only guitar players do that.

megadan · #9 04-19-2009, 07:08 PM

I think what you're asking is specifically about crimping DR Hi-beams.

I eyeball an inch or two past the post, CRIMP (bend at a 90 degree angle with pliers), and THEN cut off the length I need.

This is the proper procedure for DR's, IIRC.
See this thread as well: DR Round cores - Crimping question

fearceol · #10 04-20-2009, 05:12 AM

I have wondered about this bending/crimping also. Some people are saying "bend, then cut past same bend". So how do you get it through a small hole with this bend

Another aside on DR's : I decided to try a set of sunbeams recently after reading all the good reviews about them. I have only used Daddarios up to this. Another problem I had with these was where the thin part meets the thick part. I ended up having to wrap the thick part around the post. Not an ideal situation. I posted here asking if anyone else had experienced this. Lots of people had. My point is, DR's are regarded as the ultimate in roundwounds. While it's not a major problem, I think this should not happen so frequently with "the handmade string". Never experienced this with the "inferior" Daddarios. Also, does this confusion regarding crimping arise with other brands of string?

Just my 2 cents worth.

DWBass · #11 04-20-2009, 05:43 AM

I usually take off the old string and measure the length and cut off the new string at the same length! I do try to make sure I can wrap the string end around the tuning peg a couple times. I don't want to have too much or too little string end.

lamarjones · #12 04-20-2009, 05:56 AM

Ok, so I have done this for years, but I'd like to know what the potential downside of what I am doing is.

I fit the ball in the bridge, stretch it over the post, I cut about a plier's handle's length past the post, then I stick the new end in the hole in the post and bend/crimp it there, then wrap. So I cut, then crimp.

So apparently I have been signaling for the apocalypse all these years?

KJung · #13 04-20-2009, 06:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beelzelboss

I am about to put new strings on my bass guitar, an Ibanez srx 400. Putting DR Hi-Beams but as soon as i open the package a little **** falls out that says crip before cut. I have to idea what this means as I usually have my guitar teacher re string my guitar. Any ideas?

Thanks

~craig

I use these strings regularly. Given they are a bit different from most strings, due to the round core, they recommend the crimping. Basically, all this requires is putting a 'bend' in the string where it will go into the hole in the tuning peg PRIOR to cutting the string. This is to reduce the relatively low chance that the winding might come loose when cut (again, due to the relatively unusual round core design).

So, no big deal. I haven't had any issues, and have gone through dozens and dozens and dozens of 24-125 sets over the years.

KJung · #14 04-20-2009, 06:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beelzelboss

haha, yea you got the right idea with mom..... faq above? I'm totally missing what you are talking about.
The only other thing that i can think of to ask is how many inches should i cut it past the tuning peg? I was always told three wraps (and never got to do it because the teacher never knew) on here but i have no idea are many inches that is. How far to you guys cut it?

A lot depends on the diameter of the tuning peg.

A 'safe' amount is about 4" longer than the given tuning peg the string will go into for the G, D and A string, and about 3" for the E and B string (if you have a 5 string), since the wire is so much thicker. That should result in 3+ or so wraps on a typical tuning peg if you have about 3/4" of an inch of wire below the crimp.

thesteve · #15 04-20-2009, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beelzelboss

thesteve thats an interesting concept. Trying to imagine it and it sounds pretty good, except that my A string the tuning peg is like at least 5 inches from the nut so that could turn out to be a problem. But i have a feeling I'm missing exactly what your saying. How many inches would it be thats my only problem of trying to figure it out! Thanks for all the feedback so far!

Oh btw found what you were talking about in the faq, kinda feel a little silly but that still didn't tell exactly what i needed.

I don't have my bass here to measure, but my guess would be that I typically have 1.5 to 2.5" of slack. I realize that's a big ballpark figure and probably not that helpful.

bearshimmy · #16 04-20-2009, 10:15 AM

here's what I would do in your situation

put them through the bridge and bring them up the neck, see how much string is left over and cut a little bit off and try to string it, if there's too much left cut a little bit more, in little incriments until you can wrap the string around the peg 2 or 3 times without it looking uneven.

Here's how you cut them, bend the string to a 90 degree angle, then cut the string ABOVE the angle, that is, don't cut the angle off, the whole purpose of doing the angle thing is so that the string does not unwind on you when you cut it.

Jim Nazium · #17 05-05-2009, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rocky McDougall

Please don't end up with string ends sticking up like weeds growing out of you headstock, only guitar players do that.

But then where do you put your cigarette?

xshawnxearthx · #18 05-05-2009, 07:48 PM

never done the crimp thing. i usually run the string through the post and back to the first fret. that is where i cut, and i've never had a problem with their strings.

MysticMichael · #19 05-05-2009, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lamarjones

I fit the ball in the bridge, stretch it over the post, I cut about a plier's handle's length past the post, then I stick the new end in the hole in the post and bend/crimp it there, then wrap. So I cut, then crimp.

That'll be no problem with any string that has a hexagonal core. The edges of the core dig into the underside of the outer wrap just enough to stabilize it so it won't unwrap - at least not during the brief time that you're re-stringing.

Only potential problem is with strings that have a round core...in which case: measure, bend the string, cut just above the bend, then wind as usual.

Simple, no?

MM