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07-11-2007, 10:32 PM
| | | | How to shorten bass string?
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I have only been playing for about a month now and recently my c string snapped on me because i accidently tuned it too tight.
i have a Yamaha RBX 170 and i bought a DR "Long Neck" to replace the broken string. i followed the instructions online on how to install the string, which was pretty much easy...but the "fat" part of the string snapped once again...(sorry for my noobie terms)
Next, i went online to see what strings everyone else was buying and noticed that everyone that bought the yamaha rbx 170 bought D'Addario XL Nickel Wound Medium Gaude Long Scale also. So i went to the store and bought it, but i realized that the "fat" part went past the tuner like the DR string i bought before...
I don't want to snap another string anymore, so is there a way to shorten the "fat" part of the string or do i just have to buy shorter strings?
Thanks in advance  | 
07-11-2007, 11:18 PM
| | Registered User Endorsing: Ampeg | | Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Apopka, FL | | | You might want to read up on how to string a bass and make sure you're doing it right. There's a thousand websites that tell you how. Even if you roll up the fat part a little, it shouldn't break. | 
07-11-2007, 11:25 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2007 Location: Catford, London | | | In a nutshell, no you can't shorten it in the way I read you...
Question... You say your "C" string broke ?? - I ask because the norm is E A D G with E being the heaviest, it would help if you could post the gauge of the offending string (e.g. .105")as that may help.
There shouldn't be any problems with an E out of a set of Daddies, as they're intended for a 34" scale bass & that's what you've got. That said, there's only one way to find out!
Might be worth taking the bass into the shop & explaining the problem - if the staff are worth their salt they should see this as a good customer service confidence building thing - plus if it goes bang it ain't your fault!
The only time I had this problem was fitting a very cheap set of "Alice" strings (seriously) to a 32" scale Aria TSB-400 - at £12 ($24) for 3 sets they seemed worth a gamble, two busted E strings later, they weren't such a good deal. The remaining set fitted quite happily into my 34" Aria RSB Special though & are still going strong.
I currently favour Hartke nickels for my three 4-stringers & have had no troubles. Prior to using these I'd found Ernie Ball Hybrid Slinkys to do the business with no grief at all.
Pete. | 
07-12-2007, 07:56 AM
| | Registered User Owner/designer; SGD Lutherie | | Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Montclair, NJ, USA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by giantseabass i have a Yamaha RBX 170 and i bought a DR "Long Neck" to replace the broken string. i followed the instructions online on how to install the string, which was pretty much easy...but the "fat" part of the string snapped once again...(sorry for my noobie terms)
Next, i went online to see what strings everyone else was buying and noticed that everyone that bought the yamaha rbx 170 bought D'Addario XL Nickel Wound Medium Gaude Long Scale also. So i went to the store and bought it, but i realized that the "fat" part went past the tuner like the DR string i bought before...
I don't want to snap another string anymore, so is there a way to shorten the "fat" part of the string or do i just have to buy shorter strings?
Thanks in advance  | I looked up that bass, and it seems to be a normal long scale bass. So it's not the strings. There is no C string on the bass, and if you are trying to tune one of the strings up to C, that might be the problem!
If the thinnest string is 1, and the fattest string is 4, which string is it?
The "fat" wrapped part often wraps around the tuner, and that's not a problem.
I think you are either putting the strings on wrong, and/or tuning them to the wrong pitch.
Please give us some more info so we can help. | 
07-12-2007, 02:15 PM
| | | | thx for the replies guys and sry i meant to say the E string. So are you guys sure that wrapping the fat part would be ok cuz the fat part passes around an inch after the tuner and i dont really want to risk breaking it again. | 
07-12-2007, 02:35 PM
| | Registered User Owner/designer; SGD Lutherie | | Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Montclair, NJ, USA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by giantseabass thx for the replies guys and sry i meant to say the E string. So are you guys sure that wrapping the fat part would be ok cuz the fat part passes around an inch after the tuner and i dont really want to risk breaking it again. | That's very strange that it would do that. An inch is probably too long to wrap around the tuner. It shouldn't be wrapping that far.
You aren't using extra long strings, are you? You should be getting a set for 34" scale. D'Addario calls them "long scale". You want long, and not "super long".
What is the exact model number of string you have? | 
07-12-2007, 02:52 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | | A practical answer is - you can use any longer string on a bass and cut it down - cut it at least 2" past the tuner so you can bend the end 90 degrees, push it down the tuner post and still get a few wraps around the post. (And remember, if in doubt cut long - you can always cut it shorter, but not longer.)
In fact, plenty of people do this with 34" scale strings on 30" basses. As long as the string holds up, there's no REAL reason you can't do this. You may be wrapping the 'fat" part of the string around the tuner, but who cares??
Last edited by Pilgrim : 07-12-2007 at 03:20 PM.
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07-12-2007, 03:41 PM
| | | | Well i just installed the E string and right now its in C tuning. The wind is already pretty tight and if i wind up anymore im afraid its going to snap the string like last time.The fat part has almost twisted at least once, i dont know if i should continue winding. | 
07-12-2007, 07:40 PM
| | Registered User Owner/designer; SGD Lutherie | | Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Montclair, NJ, USA | | | How many wraps are you giving it? I like to pass the string past the post about 1.5 to 2 inches, and then I cut it off there. I poke that down in the hole if it has one, and start winding so that the string remains down near he headstock. It's also important not to let the wraps overlap if you can help it. Usually I get about three turns before it's up to pitch.
You still didn't say what exact string you are using. I'm wondering if you have a super long scale string. Regular long scale shouldn't wrap the main winding around the post. | 
07-12-2007, 09:16 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | | If you're trying to tune to C ABOVE E, no wonder it wants to snap. if you're turning to C below E using an E string, seems like it shouldn't snap the string. | 
07-12-2007, 09:24 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2007 Location: Atlanta, Georgia | | | Might be a silly question but...
If you are using an electronic tuner, do you have it set to the "bass" mode? I.E. NOT tuning with a normal guitar tuner? A low E on a guitar is only .046. The Daddies that I use have the E at .105 for comparison. This will CERTAINLY snap a string or two.
Ox.
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07-12-2007, 09:24 PM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilgrim If you're trying to tune to C ABOVE E, no wonder it wants to snap. if you're turning to C below E using an E string, seems like it shouldn't snap the string. |
why would you tune up 4 and 1/2 steps when C is 2 steps down from E?
since you dont know, the way to do it is to buy heavy guage strings and to tune down.
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07-12-2007, 10:43 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Philadelphia, PA | | | This might seem like a dumb question but are you putting the silk part of the string into the tuner and winding from there or are you sticking the actual string itself into the tuner and winding.
It seems by the "fat" part you might be talking about the actual string? | 
07-13-2007, 04:33 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Singapore | | | no, to me what i think he is doing is not cutting the string at all and winding the entire string onto the tuner. that can put a lot of pressure onto a string. cut the string 2 inches after the tuner and wind that.
I wind "fat parts" of string onto my tuner and all of my strings last at least a year. And then they break at the bridge.
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07-13-2007, 08:37 AM
| | Registered User Owner/designer; SGD Lutherie | | Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Montclair, NJ, USA | | | I was thinking that too.. that's why I asked how much winding is going on the tuner.
It also seems like he's using strings that are too long. The "fat part" shouldn't wrap on the tuner, even with the silk part wrapped on first. If it does, the string is too long.
I think he bought 36" strings by mistake, but he hasn't told us what he bought... which is why I kept asking.
But he's only been playing for a month.. I see basses with the strings put on wrong by bass players that have been playing years!
Your strings shouldn't break at the bridge. That used to happen to me when I used Badass bridges.. the slots got rough. | 
07-13-2007, 10:47 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Connecticut | | My E string broke at the bridge once, but I haven't changed the strings in a year so it was due.
This scenario is pretty interesting. D'addario has the medium gauge E string (.105) tuned to E @ 40lbs. of tension. If giantseabass tuned it HIGHER to C, then it would be over 70lbs of tension.
That's pretty damn tight.
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