La Bella Deep Talkin' Bass flatwound string through body

**bassman_al** · #1 03-11-2011, 04:45 AM

I know the Jamerson set is too large a gauge to safely string through the body, and I know that La Bella recommends that their strings not get strung through the body due to the sharp turning angle that the string makes at the bridge. But I am wondering how many of you out there have thrown caution to the wind and strung them through the body anyway, and what your result was.

I have one P-bass, a '97 MIA, and I love it. It has only one option for strings, and that is through the body. I have tried Fenders on it with no problems, and a set of La Bella standard gauge flats for a little while with no problem.

So please chime in with your La Bella sting through the body experience. Thanks!

Mrdak · #2 03-11-2011, 05:02 AM

The core WILL crack............ most likely, while you're removing the E or A string. I tried it twice. Both times with the same result. If the regular gauge didn't crack when you tried it, you were just lucky I guess.

I didn't know there was no option to string from the top on any P bass. I will say this..... I've never heard any difference either way.

**joinercape** · #3 03-11-2011, 05:03 AM

I used LaBella 760FL's through the body on an MIA Fender P bass for years with no problems whatsoever. I know a few other players around here who have used them also with no problems. The worst that can happen is a break, you replace it and play on.

**bassman_al** · #4 03-11-2011, 06:03 AM

True Joijnercape, but at the prices that a new set of La Bellas cost, I have to decide if its worth it to me... I guess I could buy an individual string if one breaks, but it seems that with all the choices out there, maybe I should focus on finding another flat that sounds good to me. The Fenders were ok. Not as nice sounding, but probably pretty close. Or I could get a different bridge...

Surly · #5 03-11-2011, 06:17 AM

They're different [core] from other flats, I'd say it's a bit of a risk. However, if others did it, I would do it to. They're most likely to break on installation.

**joinercape** · #6 03-11-2011, 07:37 AM

You could try the Sadowsky flats, that's what I use now, they are made by LaBella to Roger's specs, they are REALLY nice. All my bridges are top load only now, Hipshot B style. Not sure what Roger's thoughts on string through with his strings, though all his basses are top load only. Good luck. Another option is TI flats, they sound terrific and last forever, though they are much softer feeling, less tension. That bothers some folks. And they are a bunch more money.

jasper383 · #7 03-11-2011, 07:42 AM

I think it depends on the angle the string makes as it comes out of the body, then up to the saddles. Sharp angle--cracked core.

On my 08 MIA Precision, flats were no trouble at all, because that angle didn't look too sharp. But on my 51 Reissue P Bass, the angle is quite steep going up to the saddles, and I can see the gap in the flatwound windings down to the core of the string (a set of DR flats).

**bassman_al** · #8 03-14-2011, 10:45 AM

Drilled holes in the back of the bridge, converting it to a top load optional bridge. So now my top loaded Jamersons are sitting safely on this P-bass. Problem solved!

Muckaluck · #9 03-14-2011, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassman_al

Drilled holes in the back of the bridge, converting it to a top load optional bridge. So now my top loaded Jamersons are sitting safely on this P-bass. Problem solved!

Haha, nice! I was gonna say just get a new bridge... or drill a new bridge!!!

jbednarski · #10 03-14-2011, 11:05 AM

NEVER string through the body if possible. The bend in the string is too sharp and will affect your intonation among other things. This is a major cause of the E string "phasing" too. Learn by my mistakes. Google Roger Sadowsky's take on this.

**joinercape** · #11 03-14-2011, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassman_al

Drilled holes in the back of the bridge, converting it to a top load optional bridge. So now my top loaded Jamersons are sitting safely on this P-bass. Problem solved!

That's the way! Good for you!

MOSCOWBASS · #12 03-14-2011, 11:40 AM

I have deep talking flats, Jamerson set on my 76 P. Strung "normally", the E string is just long enough, before hitting the blue material at the machine head end. Unless there is an extral long version, I think they would be too short for thro' body stringing.

TomB · #13 03-14-2011, 12:43 PM

I strung 760FL's through my Am. Std. P-bass and the E-string broke immediately. ...expensive lesson in heeding mfg's warnings.

ljazz · #14 03-19-2011, 03:14 AM

I've even had problems with Chromes going through body on a MIA P. I avoid through body stringing with flats...... and I can't tell a big difference in tone...... so going through body just isn't worth it.

vin*tone · #15 05-26-2011, 07:47 AM

But..........Why are flatwounds and stringthoughs not a good match - when that's how basses were strung in the 60's?

JTE · #16 05-26-2011, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vin*tone

But..........Why are flatwounds and stringthoughs not a good match - when that's how basses were strung in the 60's?

Because LaBella doesn't want to be stuck with replacing strings that break. They may have changed their manufacturing process, or Fender may have changed the bridge in '57 because of string breakage. And some flats do work through-body. I have GHS Precision Flats on my Sting (throug-body only) and they work fine, as did TI flats and some putrid sounding Fender flats I tried for a month.

Having done a real side-by-side comparison where I eliminated every variable, I say there's no difference in either wind nor feel between STB or top-load. I strung two similar basses that have the option to string either way (two Lakland 4-94s) with alternating strings. One had the E and D top-loaded with the A and G through-body and the opposite one the other. When I restrung them I reversed the order. This compares the two methods with the exact same bridge, body, neck, set-up, pickups, nut, etc. There ain't no difference so use top-load if you have the choice. There's also a Fender bridge (I think from the American Deluxe) that's a direct replacement for the first American Standard (or maybe the American Series- I don't know when FMIC went back and forth on the names) bridge bur allows top-load and also apparently works well to replace the two-saddle bridge on the replicas of the pre-1957 basses.

John

**bassman_al** · #17 05-26-2011, 10:05 AM

Or just carefully drill holes in the back of your fender string through body only bridge like I did. Wasn't all that hard. Just go slow and make sure your new rear holes line up with your bridge string direction.

Worst case is that you will have to buy a new bridge, which you can get used here on TB for $30 or $40. New I think the Am Deluxe 3 screw model is $60 or so, or you could get the new Fender HMV which works for 3 screw models like my '97 P.

seanm · #18 05-26-2011, 12:09 PM

I have had good success with Chromes strung through the body on at least two basses: a G&L Tribute L2500 that I strung though the body to prevent bridge issues and a Musicmaster that was through body only. YMMV.

I have always heeded LaBella's advice and not strung their flats through the body.

BigLoopDuke · #19 05-29-2011, 09:15 AM

+1,000 on the chromes. Never had a problem with string through on my early 2000 pbass

Doctor Dirt · #20 05-29-2011, 09:27 AM

Ran the "Deep Talkin" through a 1999 USA/ J-Bass and had no problem at all. I wonder if the angle has been changed in the newer models. I just purchased a 2008 usa/P and it had the heavier optional bridge and I choose the tradional way to run through the top naturally. Just put the Fender bridge on that has the option, thats the cheap quick fix. Doc