Lo-Rider ss or Hi-Beam ss on my musicman?

[triggervision]

I will be downtuned (4-string). What will be the differences? Tension, sound, etc.? Any advice would help as I am a "poor college kid" and don't really have the dough to "try" stuff out and not be satisfied. Thanks guys.

[meev992]

Depends how downtuned.

Go with Power slinkys, might as well keep the brand consistent (between bass and string).

[triggervision]

half step down and also half step down drop d (C# G# C# F#)

[GabeN]

I'd go with the lowriders then. The Lowriders and Hi-beams are pretty much identical tone-wise or so I've heard. The only difference is tension. I run hi-beams on a d-tuned warwick and they can be a little floppy some times but they sound great and never go really dead.

[Magneto]

Originally Posted by GabeN

I'd go with the lowriders then. The Lowriders and Hi-beams are pretty much identical tone-wise or so I've heard. The only difference is tension. I run hi-beams on a d-tuned warwick and they can be a little floppy some times but they sound great and never go really dead.

I agree.. I love Hi Beams, but when the band started downtuning 1/2 step, tension problems arose. I accidently tried a set of low riders when GC sold me the wrong set and I was at a gig before I even caught the mistake.. The low riders sounded quite nice, and yes, had a bit more tension to them.

I'm thinking about experimenting with some hi beam heavy gauges.. They might be just right..

Mag...

[steamthief]

Try some Fat Beams, they sound great!

[triggervision]

I will be getting the heavy gauge whatever set I get (110 90 70 50) Would you guys still recommend the Lo-riders? Or go with the high beams?

[dbcandle]

The lo-riders have a hex-core, the hi-beams have a round core. The hex-core is "stiffer" so it gives more of the fundamental (low EQ).

Not sure how they do in drop-down tuning, though...

[lowendgenerator]

I use DR Lo-Riders on my basses. I use .115, .085, .065, .045 and tune CGCF. The tension is perfect, and the tone is even between the strings. I used a .125 for a while, but the fundemental overtones of a .125 tuned a step up were very different from the rest of the strings tuned down a step, not to mention the difference in tension.

I ordered a dozen .115 Lo Riders for 8 bucks a piece from the local store, way cheaper than any online place was able to quote me.

[GabeN]

Originally Posted by dbcandle

The lo-riders have a hex-core, the hi-beams have a round core. The hex-core is "stiffer" so it gives more of the fundamental (low EQ).

Not sure how they do in drop-down tuning, though...

Actually I got a set today and was surprised to find out that the lo-riders are hex core too. It says so on the back of the box.

Well, if you're going to get 110's then I'd try the hi-beams first. I prefer the hi-beams overall but if you just have to have extra tension then the lo-riders are good. I just stuck a set on my warwick and they sound pretty darn good although switching from light-guage hi-beams makes it seem like the bass is much harder to play.

[Michael Jewels]

I have Lo-Riders on my SR4, and love their sound and stiffer feel.

They're very articulte for finger style, which is the only way I play. I never tried mine downtuned.

Mike

[Ampeg SVT]

I have the hi beam heavy gauges on my Ripper, it is very tight for downtuning even to B but the strings went dead very fast on the ripper, but whatever the ripper isnt a great bass imo

[rochishin]

I'm using the lo-riders for the first time on my musicman and they sound wonderful. Very warm(relatively) compared to hi-beams. Up until now I was a die hard hi-beam fan. I think nickel is known for being a warmer metal as compared to its stainless counterpart(afaik). To me it does sound better. The tension is definitely higher but not by much i don't think. It would for sure help with lower tunings. A lot of slappers like the hi-beams because they're easier to "pop" without having to fight for it. Sound-wise, to me, the lo-riders seem to be a bit "fuller" and less panky(?) compared to hi-beams.

Just my opinion.

[rochishin]

Fwiw, the lo-riders seem to have tamed my musicman, in a good way.

[king_biscuit]

To my ears, nickel wound rounds sound better on Musicman basses than steels. I like Daddario XLs. Between the two on your list, however, I'd take Lowriders, which are pretty soft but have better tension than Hi Beems.

[rummy]

Originally Posted by king_biscuit

To my ears, nickel wound rounds sound better on Musicman basses than steels. I like Daddario XLs. Between the two on your list, however, I'd take Lowriders, which are pretty soft but have better tension than Hi Beems.

+1. I liked the nickel low riders on my SR4 as well as the Slinkies.

[MysticMichael]

I just installed a set of SS Lo-Riders medium-light gauge on my Carvin LB70, and a set of Fat Beams medium-lights on my LB70F (fretless). The SS Lo-Riders are great! Exactly the tone I was hoping for: crisp and modern, but full-bodied and without the "clankiness" usually associated with stainless steel strings. Nice tight tension too. An excellent string for fretted bass.

For me, the jury is still out on the Fat Beams. I'm looking for a lot of brightness in the strings I use on my fretless, to overcome some of its inherent dullness and to yield a certain amount of sparkle and zing in the upper midrange. So I may yet try a set of Hi-Beams before I settle on a permanent choice.

I once tried a set of nickel Lo-Riders, but for whatever reason, wasn't as impressed as I'd hoped to be. Nothing inferior about them. They just didn't seem to stand out particularly...

MM

[73jbass]

I have a set of heavy gauge Hi Beams on a Sterling tuned to D standard. Works fine.

[JGR]

lo-riders are my first choice on my MM. they have a more pronounced midrange and smooth top which helps balance out the aggressiveness of the MM. hi-beams sounds way to clanky on a MM in my experience.

JR

[T-MOST]

Low riders are super stiff! that should work out well for detuning.