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01-25-2010, 01:04 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Mesa, Arizona | | | Long-scale 5-string advice
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This is for a MTD Kingston Heir-5. - 35" scale
- Modern & classic rock, symphonic metal
- Finger player exclusively - some slap & pop
- No B string with a thin beginning (fat through and through)
Thanks!!!
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Bassists who drive a Volvo club #1
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01-25-2010, 01:06 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Coeur d'Alene | | | Does "No B string with a thin beginning" mean tapered at the bridge?
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01-25-2010, 01:11 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Mesa, Arizona | | Quote:
Originally Posted by CapnSev Does "No B string with a thin beginning" mean tapered at the bridge? | YES.
It's awful when you forget the expression and you need to use kiddie language to explain what you mean!
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Bassists who drive a Volvo club #1
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01-25-2010, 02:39 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Coeur d'Alene | | | I guess most rounds would work then, just be aware of what brands have a tapered B, and even then you usually have an option.
Personally, as far as rounds go, I'm a fan of plain ol' Ernie Ball Slinkys. Smooth feel and sound, they're cheap, and no tapered B.
__________________ "Resentments are the rocket fuel that lives in the tip of my sabre." | 
01-25-2010, 02:53 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Knoxville, TN | | Tapered B strings are preferred by many because (and I've seen this), many UN-tapered Bs willl arc over the saddle instead of leaving the saddle in a straight line toward the nut. It's hard to get a thick "power line" to make a sharp turn  .
I've also seen this at the nut, if the string angle across the nut is too severe. This makes for a B that won't intonate well (saddle issue) and/or high action at the lower frets (nut issue. I tend to prefer Bs between .125 and .135 that are not too stiff and tapered. But I know DR makes both varieties and also has stiffer and slinkier varieties at the same gauges. I think Hi Beams are fully wound at the ball end.
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01-25-2010, 02:58 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Florida | | | DR Nickel Low Riders, Elixir NanoWebs, D'Addario EXL170-5SL come to mind.
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01-25-2010, 03:09 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Mesa, Arizona | | Well, Smogg, I ordered a set of these, as I am a fan of D'Addario strings and also listened to a few sound files: http://www.guitarcenter.com/D-Addari...45-i1123132.gc
I can always try something else.
Thanks for the recommendations.
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Bassists who drive a Volvo club #1
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01-25-2010, 03:28 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Mesa, Arizona | | Quote:
Originally Posted by JEDI BASS Tapered B strings are preferred by many because (and I've seen this), many UN-tapered Bs willl arc over the saddle instead of leaving the saddle in a straight line toward the nut. It's hard to get a thick "power line" to make a sharp turn  . | Well, one can lower the saddle to avoid this. I would expect that what you describe is more common with strings that go through the body, as there is a 90 degree turn.
My bridge is more Fender type and the kink is minimal.
My personal issue with tapered Bs that only get fat about half an inch is they give a bizarre "not full" tone, and usually one plays on the B string at the 5th and up (unless you play metal in which case the open B sees a lot of use).
My luthier, who I trust also recommends against tapered Bs.
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Bassists who drive a Volvo club #1
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01-25-2010, 04:04 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Coeur d'Alene | | | I am a huge supporter of the tapered B. It allows for an easy setup and intonates much better IME.
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01-25-2010, 04:16 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Florida | | Quote:
Originally Posted by NickInMesa | I have to use SL's (Super Longs) as regular long scale come up a bit short on my bass.
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01-25-2010, 04:20 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Knoxville, TN | | Quote:
Originally Posted by NickInMesa Well, one can lower the saddle to avoid this. I would expect that what you describe is more common with strings that go through the body, as there is a 90 degree turn.
My bridge is more Fender type and the kink is minimal.
My personal issue with tapered Bs that only get fat about half an inch is they give a bizarre "not full" tone, and usually one plays on the B string at the 5th and up (unless you play metal in which case the open B sees a lot of use).
My luthier, who I trust also recommends against tapered Bs. | I don't string non-tapered Bs thru the body. And, when I have switched to non-tapers (D'addarios for instance), I DO lower the saddle (you have too unless you like high action), but w/ proper intonation, the saddle always seems to be fairly close to the ball end of the string, increasing the break angle. Quote:
Originally Posted by CapnSev I am a huge supporter of the tapered B. It allows for an easy setup and intonates much better IME. | I agree on both points  and Dan Lakin and Michael Tobias agree too   .
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Originally Posted by MarkusBass JJ's a smart guy! |
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01-26-2010, 08:49 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Ventura, CA | | | I find certain tapered Bs to be much better, especially from 5th fret up. But not all tapered strings are created equal. I can't imagine anyone calling labella hard rockin steels or pedulla stainless "not full". They are fat and growly on the low B from open to the 12th fret. Best B string made IMHO. I've also played tapered Bs, in particular DRs, that were no different from the untapered version. | 
01-26-2010, 09:00 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Mesa, Arizona | | Quote:
Originally Posted by pickles I find certain tapered Bs to be much better, especially from 5th fret up. But not all tapered strings are created equal. I can't imagine anyone calling labella hard rockin steels or pedulla stainless "not full". They are fat and growly on the low B from open to the 12th fret. Best B string made IMHO. I've also played tapered Bs, in particular DRs, that were no different from the untapered version. | By "up" you mean higher pitch, right?
In this case, that is exactly the opposite that I have found.
Although it is expected that a same note sounds differently between strings, in this case the difference is so important that it is as if I was playing a P-bass on the B string and a J-bass on the others.
It may be sort of cool and useful for some, but not for me, I expect a bit of consistency.
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Bassists who drive a Volvo club #1
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01-26-2010, 09:12 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Ventura, CA | | | Yes, up means higher in pitch. The Pedulla Stainless set is all tapered but the G string. Its the most even 5 string set I've ever played. You can play the B with a pick and it sounds amazing, the E sounds exactly the same. | 
01-26-2010, 10:07 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Coeur d'Alene | | Quote:
Originally Posted by NickInMesa By "up" you mean higher pitch, right?
In this case, that is exactly the opposite that I have found.
Although it is expected that a same note sounds differently between strings, in this case the difference is so important that it is as if I was playing a P-bass on the B string and a J-bass on the others.
It may be sort of cool and useful for some, but not for me, I expect a bit of consistency. | I think that may be just an intonation problem. On my P5, I can play the same notes on the E or the B string, and they come out the same to the ears, and on the tuner.
I second what Pickles said on the Labellas and Pedullas too. Both of those sets intonate great and sound really even from string to string. The B is pretty tight sounding too.
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