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  #1  
Old 01-25-2010, 01:04 PM
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Long-scale 5-string advice

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This is for a MTD Kingston Heir-5.
  • 35" scale
  • Modern & classic rock, symphonic metal
  • Finger player exclusively - some slap & pop
  • No B string with a thin beginning (fat through and through)

Thanks!!!
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  #2  
Old 01-25-2010, 01:06 PM
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Does "No B string with a thin beginning" mean tapered at the bridge?
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Old 01-25-2010, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CapnSev View Post
Does "No B string with a thin beginning" mean tapered at the bridge?
YES.

It's awful when you forget the expression and you need to use kiddie language to explain what you mean!
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Old 01-25-2010, 02:39 PM
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I guess most rounds would work then, just be aware of what brands have a tapered B, and even then you usually have an option.

Personally, as far as rounds go, I'm a fan of plain ol' Ernie Ball Slinkys. Smooth feel and sound, they're cheap, and no tapered B.
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Old 01-25-2010, 02:53 PM
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Tapered B strings are preferred by many because (and I've seen this), many UN-tapered Bs willl arc over the saddle instead of leaving the saddle in a straight line toward the nut. It's hard to get a thick "power line" to make a sharp turn .

I've also seen this at the nut, if the string angle across the nut is too severe. This makes for a B that won't intonate well (saddle issue) and/or high action at the lower frets (nut issue. I tend to prefer Bs between .125 and .135 that are not too stiff and tapered. But I know DR makes both varieties and also has stiffer and slinkier varieties at the same gauges. I think Hi Beams are fully wound at the ball end.
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Old 01-25-2010, 02:58 PM
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DR Nickel Low Riders, Elixir NanoWebs, D'Addario EXL170-5SL come to mind.
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  #7  
Old 01-25-2010, 03:09 PM
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Well, Smogg, I ordered a set of these, as I am a fan of D'Addario strings and also listened to a few sound files:

http://www.guitarcenter.com/D-Addari...45-i1123132.gc

I can always try something else.

Thanks for the recommendations.
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Old 01-25-2010, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEDI BASS View Post
Tapered B strings are preferred by many because (and I've seen this), many UN-tapered Bs willl arc over the saddle instead of leaving the saddle in a straight line toward the nut. It's hard to get a thick "power line" to make a sharp turn .
Well, one can lower the saddle to avoid this. I would expect that what you describe is more common with strings that go through the body, as there is a 90 degree turn.

My bridge is more Fender type and the kink is minimal.

My personal issue with tapered Bs that only get fat about half an inch is they give a bizarre "not full" tone, and usually one plays on the B string at the 5th and up (unless you play metal in which case the open B sees a lot of use).

My luthier, who I trust also recommends against tapered Bs.
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Old 01-25-2010, 04:04 PM
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I am a huge supporter of the tapered B. It allows for an easy setup and intonates much better IME.
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Old 01-25-2010, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickInMesa View Post
Well, Smogg, I ordered a set of these, as I am a fan of D'Addario strings and also listened to a few sound files:

http://www.guitarcenter.com/D-Addari...45-i1123132.gc

I can always try something else.

Thanks for the recommendations.
I have to use SL's (Super Longs) as regular long scale come up a bit short on my bass.
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  #11  
Old 01-25-2010, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickInMesa View Post
Well, one can lower the saddle to avoid this. I would expect that what you describe is more common with strings that go through the body, as there is a 90 degree turn.

My bridge is more Fender type and the kink is minimal.

My personal issue with tapered Bs that only get fat about half an inch is they give a bizarre "not full" tone, and usually one plays on the B string at the 5th and up (unless you play metal in which case the open B sees a lot of use).

My luthier, who I trust also recommends against tapered Bs.
I don't string non-tapered Bs thru the body. And, when I have switched to non-tapers (D'addarios for instance), I DO lower the saddle (you have too unless you like high action), but w/ proper intonation, the saddle always seems to be fairly close to the ball end of the string, increasing the break angle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CapnSev View Post
I am a huge supporter of the tapered B. It allows for an easy setup and intonates much better IME.
I agree on both points and Dan Lakin and Michael Tobias agree too .
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Old 01-26-2010, 08:49 AM
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I find certain tapered Bs to be much better, especially from 5th fret up. But not all tapered strings are created equal. I can't imagine anyone calling labella hard rockin steels or pedulla stainless "not full". They are fat and growly on the low B from open to the 12th fret. Best B string made IMHO. I've also played tapered Bs, in particular DRs, that were no different from the untapered version.
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Old 01-26-2010, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pickles View Post
I find certain tapered Bs to be much better, especially from 5th fret up. But not all tapered strings are created equal. I can't imagine anyone calling labella hard rockin steels or pedulla stainless "not full". They are fat and growly on the low B from open to the 12th fret. Best B string made IMHO. I've also played tapered Bs, in particular DRs, that were no different from the untapered version.
By "up" you mean higher pitch, right?

In this case, that is exactly the opposite that I have found.

Although it is expected that a same note sounds differently between strings, in this case the difference is so important that it is as if I was playing a P-bass on the B string and a J-bass on the others.

It may be sort of cool and useful for some, but not for me, I expect a bit of consistency.
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Old 01-26-2010, 09:12 AM
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Yes, up means higher in pitch. The Pedulla Stainless set is all tapered but the G string. Its the most even 5 string set I've ever played. You can play the B with a pick and it sounds amazing, the E sounds exactly the same.
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Old 01-26-2010, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickInMesa View Post
By "up" you mean higher pitch, right?

In this case, that is exactly the opposite that I have found.

Although it is expected that a same note sounds differently between strings, in this case the difference is so important that it is as if I was playing a P-bass on the B string and a J-bass on the others.

It may be sort of cool and useful for some, but not for me, I expect a bit of consistency.
I think that may be just an intonation problem. On my P5, I can play the same notes on the E or the B string, and they come out the same to the ears, and on the tuner.

I second what Pickles said on the Labellas and Pedullas too. Both of those sets intonate great and sound really even from string to string. The B is pretty tight sounding too.
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