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08-07-2010, 10:42 PM
| | | | making a 34' b work
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I don't have a 5-string (a 35' is on order), but I discovered a little something possibly useful. I didn't like the floppiness of my E once I got mroe and more into fingerstyle/jazz. I wanted to add tension and not have to have a string gauge choice that sounded foreign to my other strings so I took the little rings from the head of my old strings and cut them off; I then slid them down the e-string to the head and then strung my E with the little spacers between the E's head and the bridge.
The extra active (under tension) length of string really seemed to do the trick.
Anyone know if this could tighten up a b-string enough to make it work better on a 34'? Or is it more symptomatic of wavelength vs. string length (and proportional thickness required)? kind of seems to work crudely like a string-through design |
08-07-2010, 10:56 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Tifton,Georgia | | | Honestly I have no idea what you're trying to describe.
Pictures?
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08-07-2010, 10:59 PM
|  | Remember 12/21/2012! ...it's my birthday! | | Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Cheviot, OH | | A 34 foot B!?!?! 35 foot B on order?!?!?! 
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08-07-2010, 11:05 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: WI, USA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by NKUSigEp A 34 foot B!?!?! 35 foot B on order?!?!?! | Beat me to it ... |
08-07-2010, 11:18 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2002 Location: SoCal | | Quote:
Originally Posted by NKUSigEp A 34 foot B!?!?! 35 foot B on order?!?!?! | That was going to be my only contribution to this thread. Damn you sir.
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08-07-2010, 11:25 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Ecuador (South America) | | | You meant you slipped the ball end of an old string, through the string working as a spacer before the bridge so the string is longer?
that adds no tension. the only thing that matters there is tunning and nut to saddle length
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08-08-2010, 02:35 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Cincinnati | | | Have you checked the flux capaciter adjustment? |
08-08-2010, 02:43 AM
|  | My Forte is my forte | | Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: La Jolla, CA | | | rofl |
08-08-2010, 04:23 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2009 Location: San Antonio Texas | | You're adding instability and friction where you really don't want it.
I'll give you points for trying, but it isn't a good idea.
Maybe put the low B string in the A or D position for even more added length? 
This also makes your bass unplayable by the drummer's friend who wants to sit-in.
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08-08-2010, 05:11 AM
| | Registered User
Owner: Buzzard's Bass Shop | | Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Bradenton, Florida | | | Rotosound strings generally have the higher tension required for a 34" B. |
08-08-2010, 06:00 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2007 Location: Philadelphia, PA | | | |
08-08-2010, 06:14 AM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Burlington N.C. | | Picture please  |
08-08-2010, 06:30 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Nova Scotia | | | If there is a bar type retainer above the nut, you can crank down the bar to increase the break angle over the nut and introduce a slight angle between the bar and the tuner.
This worked for me on my Millennium BXP5.
This seems to add a little extra tension at the price of greater tuning instability, mine tends to go a little sharp after a period of time, not enough to notice during a gig, but I have to retune the B every time I pick it up.
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I kinda wish that there was some other kinds of basses besides Ps and Js so we would have something different to talk about. -Nobody
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08-08-2010, 06:34 AM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by kcole4001 If there is a bar type retainer above the nut, you can crank down the bar to increase the break angle over the nut and introduce a slight angle between the bar and the tuner.
This worked for me on my Millennium BXP5.
This seems to add a little extra tension at the price of greater tuning instability, mine tends to go a little sharp after a period of time, not enough to notice during a gig, but I have to retune the B every time I pick it up. | Tension is impacted only between the nut and bridge. If you have a poorly designed headstock or an incorrectly cut nut, then this technique could improve the 'witness point' contact at the nut an possibly increase sustain and the fundamental note response. However, for most instruments, it won't have any impact, and for all instruments, it won't impact tension, which is defined by the ratios among scale length, frequency (note), and string gauge (same with 'through body' at the other end of the instrument). String design also comes into play, since some strings of the same gauge can feel stiffer or floppier, depending on the design of the core and windings.
Per many other threads, there is no reason that a well constructed 34" instrument can't have a fabulous B string without having to do anything 'fancy' to get there  |
08-08-2010, 07:36 AM
| | | | Another easy way to get better tension on a 34" B is to just buy bigger strings. I love my .150 set from Circle K.
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08-08-2010, 08:12 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Nova Scotia | | Quote:
Originally Posted by KJung Tension is impacted only between the nut and bridge. If you have a poorly designed headstock or an incorrectly cut nut, then this technique could improve the 'witness point' contact at the nut an possibly increase sustain and the fundamental note response. However, for most instruments, it won't have any impact, and for all instruments, it won't impact tension, which is defined by the ratios among scale length, frequency (note), and string gauge (same with 'through body' at the other end of the instrument). String design also comes into play, since some strings of the same gauge can feel stiffer or floppier, depending on the design of the core and windings.
Per many other threads, there is no reason that a well constructed 34" instrument can't have a fabulous B string without having to do anything 'fancy' to get there | I suppose you're right, now that I look at it closer.
What I was thinking of as increased tension, is actually more of a mechanical solution, in the case of my 5er.
Since the distance between the nut and B tuner is short, and the angle is relatively sharp (like a shallow V) what I'm actually getting is a higher action over the first fret, which helps the B from rattling against the frets with a decent low action.
The string only wants to bend to a certain angle, and the sharp crossing at the nut adds a little extra height over the first few frets.
Since the only other solution for this guage of string (.135) would involve raising the saddle higher and giving a higher action over the whole neck, this seems to work better.
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I kinda wish that there was some other kinds of basses besides Ps and Js so we would have something different to talk about. -Nobody
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08-08-2010, 08:18 AM
| | | | why don't you just get the next highest gauge string?
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08-08-2010, 08:28 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Australia | | Quote:
Originally Posted by jtc_hunter Another easy way to get better tension on a 34" B is to just buy bigger strings. I love my .150 set from Circle K. | Quote:
Originally Posted by wetzelman1 why don't you just get the next highest gauge string? | +1
And OP, still got no idea....  maybe a better explanation?
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08-08-2010, 08:43 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Nova Scotia | | Quote:
Originally Posted by wetzelman1 why don't you just get the next highest gauge string? | In my case, I live in a relatively small town, so there's very limited string selection here, and these strings were the ones I bought when I got the bass to replace the originals.
I may actually be the only 5 string player in town, I haven't seen anyone else use one for about 4 years, one guy had a Jazz V, but sold that.
I'll have to order my next set to get something heavier.
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I kinda wish that there was some other kinds of basses besides Ps and Js so we would have something different to talk about. -Nobody
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08-08-2010, 08:44 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: USA | | | Gary Willis mentions something like you described in his book "101 Bass Tips." His process involves using a plastic spacer (a small tube) between the string ball and the bridge. I tried it with a piece of steel tube. I recall having to lower the string after I did it. I eventually ditched it though since the tube sticking was sort of a pain. and eye sore.
Last edited by raymondl3 : 11-22-2010 at 09:10 AM.
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