Go Back   TalkBass Forums > Bass Guitar Forums > Bass Guitar Forums > Strings [BG]
Register Rules/FAQ/CUP Members List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read



Supporting Membership
Thank You

Latest Supporting Member
Donate to Upgrade Today

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 12-18-2006, 08:23 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Oklahoma City
Send a message via AIM to ericmonster_tm
Question on changing strings.

Sign in to disble this ad
I'm still a bit of a novice when it comes to changing strings. I'm not quite sure what I'm doing wrong.

Pardon my ignorance if there's something here that Im not doing right.

I previously had an early 90's Dean Edge bass. The first time I changed the strings, I got hellacious fret buzz at the first fret.

So i took it in to get set-up. The guy adjusted the action and the pick-ups and set the action pretty high.

So it worked, until it was time to change strings again. This time the buzzing was worse. So we adjsuted it. We thought maybe the truss rod needed adjsuting. So I took it in to get set-up again. By now the intonation is a bit jarred. Depending on the weather or how tight the strings are depends on how well it is intonated.

So this past weekend I got a very nice G&L. The action is really low, plays like a dream, intonation is great. No more odd looks as who is playing a wrong note at practice.

The bass had the original strings on it. SO I changed the strings.

Sure enough. Fret Buzz at the first fret.

So it doesnt seem to be the bass. I dont have the tools to adjust the action. I dont think i could get it in and out of the shop in time for the next practice.

Am I getting strings that are too thick?

Does anyone know what strings originally come on G&L's?
  #2  
Old 12-18-2006, 08:27 PM
greenboy's Avatar
http://greenboy.us/forum/

greenboy designs: fEARful, bassic, dually, crazy88 etc
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: remote mountain cabin Montana
Supporting Member
Well, here's why it's good to learn to do your own setups. Here's a good link for that: http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass...tupmanual.html

Anyway, different sets and gauges and types of strings vary both in their TENSION, and flexibility, and depending on one's touch and setup either one or both can affect how easy it is to get string buzz.
__________________
<-- greenboy ---<<<<
fEARful™ website

fEARful™ forum
  #3  
Old 12-18-2006, 08:34 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Oklahoma City
Send a message via AIM to ericmonster_tm
Quote:
Originally Posted by greenboy View Post
Well, here's why it's good to learn to do your own setups. Here's a good link for that: http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass...tupmanual.html

Anyway, different sets and gauges and types of strings vary both in their TENSION, and flexibility, and depending on one's touch and setup either one or both can affect how easy it is to get string buzz.

I use DR High-Beams. Mediums. 45/105.
  #4  
Old 12-18-2006, 08:41 PM
greenboy's Avatar
http://greenboy.us/forum/

greenboy designs: fEARful, bassic, dually, crazy88 etc
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: remote mountain cabin Montana
Supporting Member
Medium High Beams have a fair amount of tension (that's based on gauge more than anything else), but also have MORE FLEXIBILITY (because of the round core wire) than say, Low Beams or most other hex-core roundwounds. So, being more flexible, they require either a combination of higher bridge barrels and/or more relief, or playing with a lighter touch.
__________________
<-- greenboy ---<<<<
fEARful™ website

fEARful™ forum
  #5  
Old 12-19-2006, 10:30 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
You have to pay attention to how you wrap the string around the post so that the next turn gets pushed under the previous one etc. I think you might not be getting enough "string break angle" past the nut on the headstock side.
  #6  
Old 12-19-2006, 11:01 AM
MonetBass's Avatar
My favorite songs were never heard on the radio
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Tulsa, OK
Supporting Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taurus View Post
You have to pay attention to how you wrap the string around the post so that the next turn gets pushed under the previous one etc. I think you might not be getting enough "string break angle" past the nut on the headstock side.
Excellent point, Taurus. Hadn't thought of that, so good catch.
  #7  
Old 12-28-2006, 05:20 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Oklahoma City
Send a message via AIM to ericmonster_tm
Just an update on this thread.

I tracked down the orignal SIT strings that came on on bass. I would have to mail order them.

So the next best thing was the Fender 7250ML.

To answer the above posts. They are wrapped find.

I guess I should've mentioned that I tune to C. I believe I am in need of higher tension strings or strings in a light gauge.

This way when I tune to C they arent as "flappy."

My question is do G&L bases require an extra long string? I noticed on the SIT website that the it says the XL gauge says "Fits G&L."

If I go to flats, should I get an extra long gauge?
  #8  
Old 12-28-2006, 05:32 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericmonster_tm View Post
I guess I should've mentioned that I tune to C. I believe I am in need of higher tension strings or strings in a light gauge.

All things being equal, light strings are floppier.

You want heavy strings for tuning down.
  #9  
Old 12-31-2006, 08:50 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ireland
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericmonster_tm View Post



.



My question is do G&L bases require an extra long string? I noticed on the SIT website that the it says the XL gauge says "Fits G&L."
I have a G+L 2000 Tribute and have been using D'addario EXL's long scale. I think Extra Long scale is for "string through body" guitars.

Last edited by fearceol : 12-31-2006 at 08:53 AM.
  #10  
Old 12-31-2006, 12:08 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Alabama
Sounds like some of the problem may lie with the nut. Lighter strings wound tighter probably sit deeper into the nut, and this could cause some buzz at the first fret. It may be possible to raise the nut a tiny bit to cure this problem without doing anything more drastic.
  #11  
Old 01-01-2007, 06:25 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: New City, NY
Send a message via AIM to TrooperFarva
If you tune to C, I say get the bottom 4 strings of a 5 string set. It's a lot more natural to tune a string up one half step instead of down 2 whole steps.

Or just get a 5 string bass.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by fdeck View Post
Of course I plug my little amp into a power system known in the industry as THAT OUTLET OVER THERE. :D
  #12  
Old 01-01-2007, 07:21 PM
guy n. cognito's Avatar
Secret Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Nashville, TN
GOLD Supporting Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrooperFarva View Post
Or just get a 5 string bass.

Big +1. If your downtuning to C, then you have no reason not to get a 5-string. Simply put, you are asking your bass to do something it's not meant to do. If you want to downtune your 4-string to C, then the tradeoff will be very high action.
__________________
Fender / EBMM / Lakland / Ampeg

www.theresistanceband.net
www.facebook.com/resistanceband
  #13  
Old 01-01-2007, 08:00 PM
bassman314's Avatar
I never worry. I'm fretless!
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bay Area, CA
Send a message via MSN to bassman314 Send a message via Skype™ to bassman314
Supporting Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by guy n. cognito View Post
Big +1. If your downtuning to C, then you have no reason not to get a 5-string. Simply put, you are asking your bass to do something it's not meant to do. If you want to downtune your 4-string to C, then the tradeoff will be very high action.
high action, and you'll need to liekly get a new nut and maybe new bridge saddles, depending on the tolerances..

5-string bass is the way to go for odd tunings.
__________________
-- Geoff
Bassist for Deer Park Avenue - Lakland Owner's Group #142 - Worship Bassist #95
  #14  
Old 01-01-2007, 08:22 PM
Registered User

Endorsing: Ampeg
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Apopka, FL
Quote:
Originally Posted by guy n. cognito View Post
Big +1. If your downtuning to C, then you have no reason not to get a 5-string. Simply put, you are asking your bass to do something it's not meant to do. If you want to downtune your 4-string to C, then the tradeoff will be very high action.
Not true at all. Downtuning a 4-string is as simple as adjusting the trussrod and putting on a thicker set of strings (reverse the order actually). Or not. Doug Pinnick from King's X downtunes with a normal set of lights. You get a little buzzing that way, but he doesn't seem to mind as buzzing is a part of his sound. Too many bassists downtune 4-strings and work with them fine to say that it's not supposed to work that way.

Oh, I almost forgot...if you put on a thicker set of strings, you may need to have your nut filed out.
__________________
Ampeg Portaflex Club #1
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Follow TalkBass on Twitter   Visit TalkBass on Facebook  

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:48 AM.




Copyright 2011 Talk Music Group Inc. All rights reserved.
Play guitar? Visit our new sister site TalkGuitar.com [beta]
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.12
Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.