Recommend me a set of flats....

Silas Martinez · #1 02-08-2009, 12:21 PM

Short version:
I need a set of long scale flats, with a tapered end E. Is there such a thing?

Full detail....

So, I've got an 08 am standard P. I love it, of course. But I'm having a bit of a string dilemma. I want to find the 'right' set of flats for it. Right now, I've got a set of chromes (only ones I could easily find locally).

Of course, one of the issues which has been covered a bit here regarding chromes is the slightly short length - I have to top-load the E string, as I have silk over the fretboard when I string through with it. So I need a string long enough to string through body.

The other issue is regarding the bridge, and setting action. Again on the E (and only the E), my bridge saddle bottoms out, and I still don't have the action where I want it. Maybe this is ultimately a setup question (let me know if it is, I'll ask specifically about a fix over there if so), but it seems that a tapered flat E string would allow me to get my action where I want before the saddle bottoms out. Is there another option? Is a tapered E going to lose some of thump quality, my main motivation for wanting flats?

I think tapered E, because the fender roundwounds that came with it had a taper E, and they let me set the action in a comfy place.

George Furlanet · #2 02-08-2009, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by khaspir

Short version:
I need a set of long scale flats, with a tapered end E. Is there such a thing?

Full detail....

So, I've got an 08 am standard P. I love it, of course. But I'm having a bit of a string dilemma. I want to find the 'right' set of flats for it. Right now, I've got a set of chromes (only ones I could easily find locally).

Of course, one of the issues which has been covered a bit here regarding chromes is the slightly short length - I have to top-load the E string, as I have silk over the fretboard when I string through with it. So I need a string long enough to string through body.

The other issue is regarding the bridge, and setting action. Again on the E (and only the E), my bridge saddle bottoms out, and I still don't have the action where I want it. Maybe this is ultimately a setup question (let me know if it is, I'll ask specifically about a fix over there if so), but it seems that a tapered flat E string would allow me to get my action where I want before the saddle bottoms out. Is there another option? Is a tapered E going to lose some of thump quality, my main motivation for wanting flats?

I think tapered E, because the fender roundwounds that came with it had a taper E, and they let me set the action in a comfy place.

Try La Bella Flatwounds, my preference light gauge. I'm not sure if the E is taperwound. They also have Black Nylon Tape Wounds which are a little brighter. I'm sure most brands will work, you will just have to experiment with the brand/gauge that sounds and works the best for you.
As for the action, you will need to shim the neck so that the headstock tilts downwards, giving you more adjustment height at the saddles. Use a "tapered shim', using a wood veneer, which is the entire size of the neck pocket rather than a strip of shim material across the bottom of the neck pocket. This will prevent the neck from bending up at the last fret, a common problem with shimmed bolt on necks. The thickness of the shim is fairly thin, probably 1mm to zero mm taper. If you are unable to make one, see a competent repair person that can.
The tapered shim also makes for better neck-to-body contact for better vibration transmission from neck to body.
George Furlanetto
fbass.com

Silas Martinez · #3 02-08-2009, 01:08 PM

So, shim the neck. I can do that. It probably should have occurred to me sooner.. I had to do that on another bass a few years back. I guess I just didn't think about it with a new bass.

I've heard a lot of good things about La Bellas, I'll check some out. I like higher tension, though, so I'm thinking perhaps a heavier gauge may be good (?). There are plenty of options for bright - when I want bright, I'd probably use a different bass (jazz or jag, likely). This is for thump - old school, R&B feel. Think Jamerson (not that I'm on the same level, just respect the tone).

Hmm. I see this notice at just strings, checking out the la bellas:

Quote:

Important note: La Bella flatwound strings are not suitable for use on instruments that require through-body stringing.
Does that mean I should just plan on top loading them?

Lastly ... is JustStrings.com the best source online for strings? Some other place I should check?

JustDavid · #4 02-08-2009, 01:15 PM

I'd check neck relief before embarking on shimming.

Which length Chromes did you find too short? Long or Extra Long?

Silas Martinez · #5 02-08-2009, 01:20 PM

The chromes were just the longs. The local music shop didn't stock extra longs (my understanding is that extras are long enough).

Neck relief is minimal - perhaps a business card or less between string and 12th fret, when the string is fretted at top and bottom. I can't imagine that tightening the truss beyond this would have any point beyond introducing some nasty buzz and possibly backbow.

JustDavid · #6 02-08-2009, 03:41 PM

Extra Longs should do it. D'Addario's website has info on how to measure up your bass' string size.

Longs might be fine. If it's only a bit of silk past the nut it could be trimmed off. You DON'T want to have any reduced windings on the fret side of the nut.

Neck relief sounds too low now. Shim time. George details the proper method. I've just put a chunk of cut-down card stock in the neck pocket closest to the bridge.