Through body E too short?

[Mr. Sound]

I have read in other threads that Fender American Standards can have a problem with some E strings being too short, due to the string through body.
Does anyone have any insight ( my Jazz hasn't needed new ones yet!)

[Douger]

I have used at least 10 different brands on my Fender P (same scale as Jazz 34") and never had a short E string problem just order long scale bass strings you will even need to cut a little off, if you like the amount of wrapping around the tuning peg cut the new to same length, at least 2-wraps but not over lapping

[Douger]

PS> all string through

[JimmyM]

Most of the time it's not an issue, but once in a while it is.

[Douger]

For a Fender use long scale. Long is for basses 34" to 36" scale length. Be warned if you buy extra long or super long 36" to 38" scale length you will end up wrapping the thick part of the string around the post.

[billgwx]

Yes, I found this to be a problem with certain strings. Had to get the newer through-body version of LaBella 760FL's, and certain other brands began tapering off right at the nut (D'Addario Chromes & Nylon Tapewounds). I opted for a long term solution to this problem by installing a High-Mass Vintage bridge, which gives me the option of going through the bridge or the body.

[JimmyM]

D'addarios are being made a little longer now expressly because of that.

[Rip Topaz]

Originally Posted by JimmyM

D'addarios are being made a little longer now expressly because of that.

Yeah, they call them "Long Scale +".

[ddawson2012]

We increased our taper length by approx. 1/2" or more to help with this situation. The change occurred late in 2012 and was a rolling production change thru our product line.

[SLaPiNFuNK]

Originally Posted by Mr. Sound

I have read in other threads that Fender American Standards can have a problem with some E strings being too short, due to the string through body.
Does anyone have any insight ( my Jazz hasn't needed new ones yet!)

Every string manufacturer has a different winding length. You need to know exactly how your instrument measures from the ball end to just past the nut. You can not purchased strings based on listed "scale length" but have to purchase by "winding length."

Many strings sold as "long scale" even though your instrument is "long scale" are going to be too short for your instrument.

[Mr. Sound]

Originally Posted by ddawson2012

We increased our taper length by approx. 1/2" or more to help with this situation. The change occurred late in 2012 and was a rolling production change thru our product line.

Thanks Don,
Exactly what I needed to hear!:

Do I need to look for the "+" sign or are all the long scales a little longer?

[SLaPiNFuNK]

Originally Posted by Mr. Sound

Thanks Don,
Exactly what I needed to hear!:

Do I need to look for the "+" sign or are all the long scales a little longer?

New inventory of "long scales" now have the longer length. There is no indication on the package.

Although I have noticed that some XL Nickels are coming in new packaging now! The new lengths are found in the older style packaging.

It is best to purchase through a dealer that knows about these things...

[Mike M.]

Yes, the "winding length" is what you've got to watch out for. One thing I found out on my Fender American Standard jazz bass in regards to winding length....when you install the E string THRU THE BODY you are displacing the string by approximatley .900 further back towards the bridge vs top loading it.

I'll try to explain this. If you want to know how the end of the winding length will "fit" at the tuner and nut when going thru the body....take the new E string and install it thru the back of the bridge as if top loading....but don't wind it around the tuner. Make note of where the winding length ends at the nut end of the string. Grab the ball end of the string and pull it back approximatley .900 (as if you were removing the string) and look where the winding length is at the nut. This will tell you what you need to know right away as to whether of not you have enough winding length for the string to work when going thru the body. I've saved myself a bit of grief by doing this.

The same applies to E strings that are tapered at the ball end. When I bought my American Standard Jazz, the factory installed Fender strings had a tapered E (thru the body) and it was a perfect fit. Because they worked so well I bought a new set of Fender strings...9250's as listed on Fenders website....only to find out they had changed the strings. The tapered end was shorter, so when I tried intalling the E thru the body it didn't work. This is when I started taking measurements and found the .900 differance when going thru the body vs top loading.

I sure hope this makes sense to all of you.

[Mr. Sound]

Originally Posted by Mike M.

Yes, the "winding length" is what you've got to watch out for. One thing I found out on my Fender American Standard jazz bass in regards to winding length....when you install the E string THRU THE BODY you are displacing the string by approximatley .900 further back towards the bridge vs top loading it.

I'll try to explain this. If you want to know how the end of the winding length will "fit" at the tuner and nut when going thru the body....take the new E string and install it thru the back of the bridge as if top loading....but don't wind it around the tuner. Make note of where the winding length ends at the nut end of the string. Grab the ball end of the string and pull it back approximatley .900 (as if you were removing the string) and look where the winding length is at the nut. This will tell you what you need to know right away as to whether of not you have enough winding length for the string to work when going thru the body. I've saved myself a bit of grief by doing this.

The same applies to E strings that are tapered at the ball end. When I bought my American Standard Jazz, the factory installed Fender strings had a tapered E (thru the body) and it was a perfect fit. Because they worked so well I bought a new set of Fender strings...9250's as listed on Fenders website....only to find out they had changed the strings. The tapered end was shorter, so when I tried intalling the E thru the body it didn't work. This is when I started taking measurements and found the .900 differance when going thru the body vs top loading.

I sure hope this makes sense to all of you.

Excellent suggesteion Mike (i take it .900 is inches~23mm?)

[Mike M.]

Originally Posted by Mr. Sound

Excellent suggesteion Mike (i take it .900 is inches~23mm?)

I believe that's what it translates to. (Don't have a calculator handy!)

.900 is in inches. By doing this it should get you pretty close. I have bought some strings where I had every intention of going thru the body, but by doing the ".900 back" thing I mentioned I came to find that the winding length (where the string at the nut end tapers) was too short. The taper wound up on the fingerboard side of the nut and not the tuner side.

Keep in mind I've only tried the .900 bit with the E and B strings as those seem to be most problematic when going thru the body as far as the winding length is concerned.

But when I tried DR Sunbeams (that are on my American Standard 4 string Jazz) I HAD to install the E string thru the body. When I went thru the bridge the winding length far exceed beyond the E tuning peg. I didn't want to risk winding all that fat portion of the string around the peg and having it break. So like I said, I first top loaded it, moved the string back .900 and I could see that I had a lot more of the thinner portion of the string to wrap around the peg with no worry of breaking it.

Again, hope this makes sense.

[SLaPiNFuNK]

Every instrument is different so best to measure by placing a mark just past the nut, removing the string and measuring.

Some instruments add more or less than others.