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Originally Posted by JackieStarr I tried the 65-128 set tuned to C. It looks like I will have to file my nut as the strings don't quite fit. Action is to high now so I will have to lower the saddles too. I think I will try a smaller gauge. This are too tight. I feel like Goldy Locks... |
Sounds like you've already tried something close to my next suggestion....
I myself play mainly 4 strings tuned B-E-A-D using the lowest 4 from a set of Ernie Ball regular slinky 5's at 130, 100, 80, and 65 (I know, this isn't the "tuned to C" answer you're looking for, but bear with me)
I do this on two basses, one of which is a J-parts-bass, so we're close to the same territory as your P-bass. (build and hardware wise) To make this happy and stable, took a truss rod adjustment, filing the nut to accomodate larger strings minor drilling at the bridge (to accomodate the B string in the E receptacle) more filing at the saddles, and action and intonation adjustments at the saddles. So, unless you're very lucky, your bass is gonna need a good setup job to play "right" with a heavier set of strings.
Why B instead of C ??? Well, it's the pitch the strings were designed for at 34", so the playing tension stays close to standard, thereby avoiding that floppy-string business you have when using a regular E string tuned to C, or the way-too-tight problem of a B tuned up to C. You still have the range necessary to play with your guitar guys tuned to C, you just have to transpose your fingerings a bit...
Anyway, my point is that I can play this instrument without changing strings, or re-tuning with bands tuned to C, drop D, or even...
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Originally Posted by JackieStarr tuned to E, the way god intended it to be |
Of course individual results will varyŽ
SM