What gauges for tighter B?

SuperSnake2012 · #1 08-10-2007, 10:46 PM

I have a set of Elixers on my bass now, I believe they are .40 - .125. The strings don't feel like they have enough tension... what gauges would be optimal for tighter B? I have a 34" scale bass tuned to BEADG.

MarkMyWordsXx · #2 08-10-2007, 10:52 PM

just get heavy guage strings, assuming you have mediums on it now

Ben Clarke · #3 08-10-2007, 10:57 PM

I swear by DR Marcus Miller Fat Beams on my StingRay5. The B is .135

Light gauge strings have never done it for me when looking for a tight, modern sound. I usually don't play anything like Marcus or try to cop his tone, but those and the Hi-Beams deliver the goods.

meev992 · #4 08-10-2007, 11:03 PM

.130, or .135

but all things being equal, the setup on a bass can have a pronounced effect on how a bass feels.

ibz · #5 08-10-2007, 11:50 PM

I've found set with anything from .128's to .135's that have tight B's.

ibz · #6 08-10-2007, 11:51 PM

Also depends on the string make and design.

Lorenzini · #7 08-10-2007, 11:58 PM

Agreed. Anything over .125 is going to be good. .130 is my pref.

meev992 · #8 08-11-2007, 12:26 PM

It just seems like people, in general, throw around the "sloppy B" thing too much. Sure, I have encountered it once, but beyond that, with decent set of strings and a decent bass, a good tight B is achievable.

its either that, or people are being too critical. I mean, it's tuned to B for goodness sake, don't expect it to feel like a G

rsautrey · #9 08-11-2007, 12:48 PM

"I swear by DR Marcus Miller Fat Beams on my StingRay5. The B is .135"

I thought the biggest DR Fat Beam B string available was a .130. At least that is what is on their website.

DocBop · #10 08-11-2007, 01:47 PM

There are many factor in getting a good B-string. I've discovered the stiffer the neck the better the B-string feels and sounds . Then scale length, string angles across the bridge/nut, and brand of strings. Some of those you have no control over it is instrument design. For strings I use same gauge but find D'Addario's have the highest tension for me.

lemur821 · #11 08-11-2007, 03:04 PM

I've found that going lighter on the other strings and giving the bass a more responsive setup makes more difference to me than the actual size of the B.

meev992 · #12 08-11-2007, 04:18 PM

I figure, the thicker my strings, the less concerned I am about my penis size

hohohohhahahhaha oh boy

JAUQO III-X · #13 08-11-2007, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by meev992

but all things being equal, the setup on a bass can have a pronounced effect on how a bass feels.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ibz

Also depends on the string make and design.

I agree and I use a 110 gauge B string on 34" scale basses.

meev992 · #14 08-11-2007, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JAUQO III-X

I agree and I use a 110 gauge B string on 34" scale basses.

REALLY??

what magical strings are u using?

I use a .110 E string (fender 9120)

either that, or you have one heck of a bass

Ben Clarke · #15 08-11-2007, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsautrey

"I swear by DR Marcus Miller Fat Beams on my StingRay5. The B is .135"

I thought the biggest DR Fat Beam B string available was a .130. At least that is what is on their website.

Yep. I stand corrected. When you only change them every 18 months or so, memory can fail...

JAUQO III-X · #16 08-11-2007, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by meev992

REALLY??

what magical strings are u using?

I use a .110 E string (fender 9120)

either that, or you have one heck of a bass

SIT (and my E string is a .80).

DavePlaysBass · #17 08-11-2007, 09:48 PM

Here are some things that have helped me out on a 34" scale G&L and Sadowsky.

1) Make sure the B is not too low. This will choke it and make it buzzy. For a 125 or 130 I typically have around 1/8" of clearance (maybe a little less) from the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of the string when the first fret is fretted. If you switch from a taper to a non taper (or vica versa), lots of saddle adjustment is needed to get things in the correct ball park. Also tapers pull the saddle forward for intonation quite a bit.

2) Moving the right hand closer to the bridge can help out some passages sound cleaner.

3) A lighter touch usually helps a lot.

4) Set the intonation at the 3rd and 7th Frets.

5) LaBella 128 Tapers are great Bs (Hard Rockin' Steel). Sadowsky Steel 130 tapers are very good too. D'Addario XL 130s are good as is TI Superalloy 125. I have not been thrilled with DR or Ernie Ball B Strings. Ken Smith B strings are OK.

6) Heavier strings can be duller or boomy sounding. I prefer something in the 125 to 130 range. The 128 is a nice compromise between boom and growl. Height is key if the string feels flimsy.

meev992 · #18 08-12-2007, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JAUQO III-X

SIT (and my E string is a .80).

That's amazing....

makes me feel like my approach is all wrong, and that i'm missing something here.

then again, there's the timbre difference right?

right?

hahha i'm sorry, it's just that, my world is being turned upside down.

JimmyM · #19 08-12-2007, 12:25 AM

I've tried ultra-lights like Jauqo, and the timbre difference isn't as significant as you'd think. Amps compensate for a lot of the difference. However, it's true that it's probably easier to get a big sound with thicker strings.

Brad Johnson · #20 08-12-2007, 01:03 AM

I get a huge sound with thinner strings. I know that seems counterintuitive but it's true. I use either a .120 or .125 B at the most. I also have low action and no unwanted fretnoise.

The bass in question and the player are key. Most of the B stringed basses I own aren't even 35" scale. I'd put them up against anything.