installing dominant string, help

[pierre]

Hello
I have for the first time dominant to install.
I search on the forum and I find those precautions

- widing the string notches on the nut and the bridge if necessary

- don't use an electric screwdriver, and put the string gradually in tension. Can someone give me precision : an hour a night before making them in tune.

- be careful not to make the metallic part touch the mecanics or the silk windings the nut. If the string is too long any suggestion ?


Another precaution ?

Thanks a lot.

[GriffithLea]

Originally Posted by pierre

- don't use an electric screwdriver, and put the string gradually in tension.
Can someone give me precision : an hour a night before making them in tune.

I don't know the context of that statement, but I don't think it's necessary to take a whole lot of time to bring the string up to full tension. I've changed many a string, and what I do is get the string tight enough to stay put on the tailpiece, bridge, nut, and machine peg, then check things over. I make sure that the string path is the way I want it. Then, I start bringing it on up, rechecking the string path every so often, making sure that it isn't binding on something, until I get to full tension. This takes at most about 5 minutes.

I think pencil lead (i.e. graphite) is a good idea on the nut and bridge grooves.

The comment about the power screwdriver is probably aimed at making sure you don't go over pitch. Also, if something slipped out of place while you were tightening with power tools (the ball nuts on new strings are notorious for this) you might not realize it until you cracked your tailpiece.

Originally Posted by pierre

- be careful not to make the metallic part touch the mecanics or the silk windings the nut. If the string is too long any suggestion ?


Another precaution ?

Thanks a lot.

I've never had a problem with the string being so short that the silk is on the nut, but I've found it impossible in most cases to keep the metal-wound part of the string off of the machine peg. I don't have an answer for this.

[Ludwig]

Dominant strings are available only in 3/4 length and specified for use on instruments with a sounding length of 104 to 106 cm. Staying in that range and maybe adjusting the tailpiece a little, you should be able to have no metal on the peg and no silk on the top string stop. The cross over point between silk and metal is the weak spot and prone to braking if bent to much.
The strings can probably used on instruments a little bit outside the specified range (maybe 103 to 107 cm sounding string length), but take care and adjust with the tailpiece if necessary.

[pierre]

Thanks all for your clear replys.

I'm waiting my new full circle and will install those Dominant. I'm very eager to ear those strings.

[Dr Rod]

LUBRICATE !!!

really, people think it's a pain but it really helps. Generously cover the bridge grooves and upper nut grooves with graphite (pencil). Put a little vaseline or lip balm on the actual string in the places that will touch the wooden grooves. You can clean up with a paper towel afterwards.

Do tune up slowly, but you don't need to do it in a 24 hour period or something like that, you can tune up in an hour or so and this will give the strings plenty of time to adjust.

Make sure that the grooves are wide enough (that goes for just about any string).

enjoy!

[GriffithLea]

Originally Posted by GriffithLea

I've never had a problem with the string being so short that the silk is on the nut, but I've found it impossible in most cases to keep the metal-wound part of the string off of the machine peg. I don't have an answer for this.

OK, I just took a look at the bass on which I recently put some D'Addario 3/4 Helicore Orchestra Mediums. It is a 3/4 bass, and has a string length just shy of 41" . With the bridge in the correct place, and the after-lengths tuned to 2 octaves and a 5th above, only the E and G (which are the strings on the two lower machines) have any of the wound part of the string on the machine peg, about 1/2 turn each. Had the A or D been on the same pegs, they'd have had the same problem.

So for this bass, the wound part of those strings is about 1" more than needed.

Dunno what to do about it. Shortening the tailgut is not the answer, as that would upset the ratio of string length above and below the bridge. I suppose I could put some sort of cylindrical spacer (i.e. slip it over the string pre-installation) between the ball and tailpiece.

Better to have winding on the peg, than silk on the nut, I suppose.

[pierre]

Hello and thanks to all

I put the Dominant after d'addario helicore hibrid light all is ok. But I perspire a little with the E string on which the silk windings end was going on the nut but with the good intonation it is now (between the tuning peg and the nut )at 1 cm (0.39 inch)of the nut. Happy so.

I give you the length of the E string between the ouput of the string at the tailpiece and the silk windings end (in tension) : 128 cm (50.39 inch)
distance between the ball and the output of the tailpiece 1 cm
You should kwow the length of the string which the tunings peg closest to the nut ; for me the E string


I think it should be given by thomastick because all DB are different ; but with this length everyone should able to know where this fragile silk windings end will be on their DB before buying those dominant strings. Thomastik reply me this when i give them my present length

"Pierre:

Thanks for your email. Please refer to the attaché file regarding Dominant strings and their proper installation.{a picture saying the silk windings end should be between the tunings peg and the nut} If you follow these instructions then there should not be a problem with Dominants at all." So no more problem with dominant breaking hallelujah only bad installation

the sounding strings length don't help ; mine is 106.5 cm, so in the average

Like GriffithLéa said I LUBRIFICATE even double because I think this was the advertise of a woman (with a name like Léa ) ..... euh.. out of purpose.


The dominant are not so hard to play,on the contrary the stifness helps. I just put them a 1mm down on the bridge and i think they're more confortable to play than the Hybrid light ; especially after the third position. "Airbass" afraid me saying he takes the dominant solo for working the thumb position" On my DB the thumb position is even easier than with very light strings. And "Chris" that replace the E with stark E afraid me a lot more. So don't be afraid of their stifness.

I put them on my bass five days ago and they still sound a little metallic and superficial. I give them time.
But very comfortable to play and more focused and a bit louder than my previous d'addario hybrid

hope this will help someone

[pierre]

After more than a year ...no breaking and always this special attack when playing.. but a little more darker

[Francois Blais]

Thanks on the heads up, Pierre!

Merci beaucoup!
François