Shorten E string at tailpiece end?

[ricobasso]

This is a follow on from my earlier broken string post (no pun intended).

I note that on my EUB and URB the E string often ends up with the metal part wound onto the peg for one or two turns. Is this always to be avoided? I broke a secondhand Dominant E, but a Jazzer E, which seems extraordinarily flexible off the bass, winds up, metal part and all, onto the peg with no bother at all.

Is this because all E strings are "one size fits all" ? i.e. 3/4 and 4/4? Has anyone come up with a neat way of shortening the string at the tailpiece end?

[jallenbass]

Look at these.

[ricobasso]

Thanks for the pointer. I may just put a second keyhole for the E string further down on the existing tailpiece. I'll have a look and a ponder tonight.

I'd still like to know if winding the metal part onto the peg is officially sanctioned by any of the string makers. I haven't seen anything written on anyone's packets.

[robobass]

My luthier ran the other way when he saw it, but I have some 1/10 size basses I use for teaching, and can't find any decent strings short enough. I've got lots of used Oblis and Eudoxas, and the basses sound really good with them.

I'm thinking of cutting the end, folding over the last half inch, wrapping wire over the fold, and setting it with epoxy. I'll file a report if I can get it to work. Maybe I should rig up something that holds the balls right down at the saddle and dispense with the tailpiece altogether.

[Jake deVilliers]

Originally Posted by robobass

Maybe I should rig up something that holds the balls right down at the saddle and dispense with the tailpiece altogether.

Good idea; like a Marvin without the hammock part.

[ricobasso]

I'd still like to know if winding the metal part onto the peg is officially sanctioned by any of the string makers.

Francois??

[Francois Blais]

It's best to avoid it, but never had any problem, except with the Dominants, which always broke.
It may cause some dents in the outer wrap, which can cause it to break if you put the string on and off a few times though.
I found the Corellis to be particularly fragile.

[ricobasso]

Originally Posted by Francois Blais

It's best to avoid it....

But I don't see any makers or retailers listing both 3/4 and 4/4 sets. Are they made?

[ricobasso]

Originally Posted by robobass

My luthier ran the other way when he saw it, but I have some 1/10 size basses ....

Just seen your picture . (I've been using a PC which doesn't let pictures through the firewall) I guess a man's gotta do what a man has to do.

Have you tried a half turn around a nut and bolt plus two thick washers to effectively make a new ball?

[Francois Blais]

Originally Posted by ricobasso

But I don't see any makers or retailers listing both 3/4 and 4/4 sets. Are they made?

Thomastik makes both.

If the ball has a hole (making it shaped like a barrel), you can mount the string in loop fashion.
The string goes through the hole.
I do that with some strings on my EUB...

[ricobasso]

Originally Posted by Francois Blais

Thomastik makes both.

I just had another look at the Dominant packets and it does indeed say 3/4 on them. I also measured my basses and the EUB is about 3" shorter between the E peg and the tailpiece hole . I do need to look at ways of effectively shortening the tailpiece on the EUB.