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  #1  
Old 10-25-2007, 06:27 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: UK, South East
Trying Out Different Strings

Trying Out Different Strings; how do you cope with different string diameters?

Obviously you can file out the bridge and nut notches when going to larger strings but what happens when you want to go back ? You could keep a few bridges with different size notches and change them when you change strings but that only works if you change a whole set at a time and it doesn't solve the nut problem.

How is it done ? There's a fair old number of string junkies on TB . Tell me how it's done.


BTW who was "Evah Pirazzi" ?
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Last edited by ricobasso : 10-25-2007 at 06:29 AM. Reason: afterthought
  #2  
Old 10-25-2007, 07:41 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
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We don't like being called "junkies". It's an illness. How about some compassion?

Generally, the diameters are not going to cause a set up change for you if you're experimenting and you started your set up with something kind of medium sized. If you end up loving something, you might want your luthier to give you a complete set up around it, but just to put things on and off, it's no big deal unless you're going from solo strings to gut strings or something.

-tk
  #3  
Old 10-25-2007, 08:18 AM
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I have learned a trick from my luthier, Jim Ferguson, for raising an individual bridge slot. Now some here (like Phil) may frown on this but it's worked fine for me with no effect on sound or performance,

Using Super Glue gel and an instant hardener (like "Zip Kicker" available from hobby shops), put a small amount of the gel in the slot that you wish to raise and spray with the hardener. When dry, use a narrow gauge, rounded file (at Home Depot you can buy the Nicholson "Hobby File set" and use the smallest rounded file, you have to buy the whole set around $15), file the slot to the desired height. Make sure you round the edges downward on both sides of the slot and make sure the slot is smooth. If it is a lower string, obviously the slot needs to be wider. That file is tapered to a point on the end so some different slot widths can be achieved. Then, coat the slot with pencil graphite and violá!

Jim told me that a slot like this is actually less likely to snag windings on a string then the plain wood.

If this idea is objectionable to you, the other way, assuming you have adjusters, is to sand down the edge of the bridge and start over on all the slots. You also may need to sand the bottom of the bridge to reduce the thickness a bit. This can usually be done a few times before you have to raise the adjusters too high. You probably want a luthier to do this job. I've gotten away with the Super Glue trick quite a few times though.

Bring on the nay-sayers!
  #4  
Old 10-25-2007, 09:09 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
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I did this a couple of years ago, and it is still working great! In fact I forgot I had done it until I read this thread.
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  #5  
Old 10-25-2007, 10:53 AM
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Peterborough, Ontario, Canada
To re-do a bridge slot, clean out the slot with sandpaper to get rid of any pencil lead. Apply superglue (for wood) in the notch...the "press down to release the glue" type works best for me. Then add maple sawdust from an old bridge. Repeat until you have enough to fill the slot. Let it harden for a couple of hours. Use a fine small flat file to clean and smooth up the slot area. Then use a hobby file to cut a new slot for the string. The slot depth is half the diameter of the string. Apply some pencil lead or graphite and install the string.
I have used this method many times with no problems. 5 minutes work plus hardening time. If you have never done it before, try it in any old piece of wood first to see whats involved.
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