1/8 turn saved me $2K

Jefenator · #1 12-25-2008, 01:53 PM

I've had my Warmoth "wide" 5 string for about 6 years now. It gets a nice, deep sound, works OK for certain gigs, but I could never get it set up quite the way I like. It was either buzzy or too high and the upper register just wouldn't sing properly. I tried a bunch of stuff and had pretty much given up. I was ready to either give the luthier a crack at it or trade it in towards a "good" 5-string.

Then I got out the screwdriver and gave the truss rods one more try. This bad boy sports dual rods - I loosened each one 1/8 turn.

Bingo!!

Suddenly, I could play above the 12th fret and hit those notes hard and instead of choking off, they'd cry out extra loud. I could never use the bass on a Jazz gig before, so I tried it out Monday night and sure enough: problem solved. I'm stoked.

The only down side is now I don't get to hunt for a Lakland or a Sadowsky because this funky old Warmoth has become the "keeper".

I'm not a total newbie with setups but as you can probably tell, I'm no pro, either. At least now after 6 years of lingering discontentment, I have a pretty good impression of what a neck plays like when there's not quite enough relief!

Dave R · #2 12-25-2008, 05:05 PM

Great story! Glad you found the "sweet spot."

mikenewman@fron · #3 12-26-2008, 08:02 AM

I was about to post a new thread about a simular problem with my fender p '51 re-issue. I feel like the action is a little high. Should I adjust the bridge first or go right to the truss rod adjustment. Any advice appreciated. Mike

Zooberwerx · #4 12-26-2008, 08:18 AM

1/8th of a turn, eh? I've found that even a 1/16th of a turn can make one helluva difference....depends a lot on the instrument and truss rod system. As far as the action goes, I always look at the relief first, nut slots, then string height at the bridge. In all fairness, a handful of TBers will tout the benefits of a perfectly straight neck....although I've never been able to make it work myself.

Riis

GeoffByrne · #5 12-26-2008, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikenewman@fron

I was about to post a new thread about a simular problem with my fender p '51 re-issue. I feel like the action is a little high. Should I adjust the bridge first or go right to the truss rod adjustment. Any advice appreciated. Mike

It depends on how it is now.

If you are getting buzz below 7th fret, you have a slight backbow. You need to release the truss a little & after that probably lower your bridge.

If your buzz is up at the top end of the neck, you probably need to tighten the truss rod & also lift the saddles slightly.

ofsalesmen · #6 12-26-2008, 11:51 PM

I had a similar experience with my Ibanez EDA tonight. I finally got the right amount of shim in the neck and the action is FINALLY where I like it!

Jazzerbone · #7 12-27-2008, 12:31 AM

It took 6 months of tweaking to get my Yamaha TRB6 where i wanted it. I was almost ready to sell it too.

thudfromafar · #8 12-27-2008, 12:35 AM

I have come inches from selling several basses, right before turning the truss rod slightly.

mikenewman@fron · #9 12-27-2008, 07:31 AM

Would that be under the pickguard on this model. Or do I remove the metal plate on the back of the body? Mike

Dave Muscato · #10 12-27-2008, 07:37 AM

Great looking axe. How a bass is set up is one of those things that's under-appreciated in how much you enjoy playing one bass over another, just like balance and intonation, in my opinion. It can even be a subconscious thing, but when you get it right, a bass can feel like "home" even when you didn't like it before. Glad it worked out for you!

Zooberwerx · #11 12-27-2008, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikenewman@fron

Would that be under the pickguard on this model. Or do I remove the metal plate on the back of the body? Mike

I'm almost tempted to suggest removing the metal plate (under full string tension, of course) but I'm still in a jovial Christmas spirit so I won't. I believe truss rod access is at the heel of the neck, hidden partially by the pickguard. There are / were basses that did require removal of the neck for relief adjustments but the procedure is a royal PIA.

Riis

Jefenator · #12 12-27-2008, 10:36 AM

I'm getting lots of practice, taking the neck off with a '60s Jazz replica. Not a huge deal (helps to have a capo handy, keep the strings from flopping all over).

On the Warmoth pictured above, you just reach in there (underneath the extended fretboard) with a flat-blade screwdriver. Couldn't be much quicker.

Zooberwerx · #13 12-27-2008, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jefenator

I'm getting lots of practice, taking the neck off with a '60s Jazz replica. Not a huge deal (helps to have a capo handy, keep the strings from flopping all over).

Would it be possible to rout a small pocket or recess in front of the truss rod access on that particular model? The modification would be hidden by the pickguard and, in the long run, would make subsequent adjustments a whole lot easier. As it now stands, adjustments are made on a trial-and-error basis. There's just something fundamentally wrong with dismantling a bass for a simple tweak IMO.

Riis