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  #1  
Old 01-20-2009, 10:28 PM
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.135 B and bridge slot

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I recently attempted re-stringing my Schecter Studio 5 with a set of Ernie Ball's (Hybrid Slinkies .045-.0105 with a separate .135 B).

The B fits into the nut slot fine, but it doesn't seem to want to fit into the bridge slot. Now even with the saddle bottomed out the action is too high for my liking.


Any ideas?
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  #2  
Old 01-22-2009, 06:54 PM
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Can you post a pic please?
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  #3  
Old 01-22-2009, 07:05 PM
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What changed? Regardless of the string diameter (as long as it sits in the slot), the bottom of the string should be exactly as it was before. I've read here of some users grinding/filing the saddles to get the action lower as well. But I'm with MadMan above - post a piccie so we can see what you're talking about.
Oh, and maybe the obvious.....does the bridge slot need to be enlarged? That can be done with a $2 file from your local home improvement center.
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  #4  
Old 01-22-2009, 07:56 PM
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I had a tech widen the B string saddle slot on my GWB2 to accommodate a .135 non-taperwound string not because the action wouldn't get to a point of my liking, but because the string would pop out of the too small slot if it wasn't done.

I think the same as Foamy: this might be your solution.
  #5  
Old 01-22-2009, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beta View Post
I had a tech widen the B string saddle slot on my GWB2 to accommodate a .135 non-taperwound string not because the action wouldn't get to a point of my liking, but because the string would pop out of the too small slot if it wasn't done.

I think the same as Foamy: this might be your solution.
Well, for both reasons. It hasn't popped out yet but it's not something I want to risk.
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Old 01-22-2009, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foamy View Post
What changed? Regardless of the string diameter (as long as it sits in the slot), the bottom of the string should be exactly as it was before. I've read here of some users grinding/filing the saddles to get the action lower as well. But I'm with MadMan above - post a piccie so we can see what you're talking about.
Oh, and maybe the obvious.....does the bridge slot need to be enlarged? That can be done with a $2 file from your local home improvement center.

It doesn't fit in the slot.
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Old 01-23-2009, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by EADG mx View Post
Any ideas?
Yeah! Deepen &/or widen the slot so it will fit how you want.

Most paranoid would be to get or make another saddle to mod & keep the original as-is.
  #8  
Old 01-23-2009, 04:46 PM
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I'm thinking I'm going to have to widen the slot, then. How should I go about doing this?

Should I take it to a tech? Sounds like an easy enough job but I've heard plenty about saddles wearing down strings and I want to make sure it's done right.
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Old 01-28-2009, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EADG mx View Post
I'm thinking I'm going to have to widen the slot, then. How should I go about doing this?

Should I take it to a tech? Sounds like an easy enough job but I've heard plenty about saddles wearing down strings and I want to make sure it's done right.
You could take it to a tech if you want, but it's something that I would classify as a DIY project. I had to widen the slot for the same reason and it was very easy. Also, you have to do a lot less filing than you might think.
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  #10  
Old 01-28-2009, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EADG mx View Post
I recently attempted re-stringing my Schecter Studio 5 with a set of Ernie Ball's (Hybrid Slinkies .045-.0105 with a separate .135 B).

The B fits into the nut slot fine, but it doesn't seem to want to fit into the bridge slot. Now even with the saddle bottomed out the action is too high for my liking.

Any ideas?
That would be because it's too big, right?

Get an appropriate type file and widen the slot - carefully. But only do it if you're going to be playing a .135 from now on. Otherwise, ditch the strings and go back to a more normal gauge string.
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  #11  
Old 01-28-2009, 12:23 PM
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Ok, so what kind of file do I need? Should I sand after?
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  #12  
Old 01-28-2009, 12:28 PM
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Get a dremmel tool ... it comes in handy when you want to work on basses.
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  #13  
Old 01-28-2009, 01:45 PM
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Personally, I'd drop into a Sears, Harbor Freight or similar tool spot and pick up a set of small diamond files that include slender round ones.

As stated above, you probably won't have to move much material. The difference between a .105 E and a .135 E is darn small!
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  #14  
Old 01-28-2009, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EADG mx View Post
Ok, so what kind of file do I need? Should I sand after?
I have a set like this:



They're available at this website http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/gyr/gyr...source=froogle but I picked mine up from the hardware store. They're advertised as being for model craftsmen, hobbyist & machinist, but to me they're a cheap set of small files that can be used for many bass-related purposes. I didn't sand, just made sure I cleaned up all the metal pieces before restringing the B.
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  #15  
Old 01-29-2009, 03:09 PM
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I think I'll sand it just to make sure. What sort of grit would I need?
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