32" bass with wonky bridge, fix or replace bridge and convert to 34"?

edobass · #1 03-11-2010, 06:21 PM

Hi all, new member with a question..

I just bought myself a fixer upper, an old Vantage VS600B fretless bass, 4-stringer. Structurally sound apart from the bridge curve. The bridge radius seems be a lot narrower than the fretboard, causing the middle 2 strings to be a lot higher than the E and G.

The bridge doesn't seem to have structural stress which leads me to believe that it was manufactured that way. 3-point bridge like a Gibson/Epiphone but slightly wider spacing between the studs, which makes replacing it with an Epiphone bridge or the Supertone not an option.

I've narrowed down my options to these three:

1. File the saddles down and have a fix action for the middle two strings. I'm gonna get a file from the hardware store during lunch time today and do this one anyway.

2. Get replacement saddles, I've sent an email asking for saddle heights to find out if this will fix my problem.

3. Ditch the bridge, cover the hole underneath it (indented under the bridge), and install a Fender-type bridge behind it. Change the scale from 32" to 34" and replace the side dot markers on the neck to suit 34". Even thought of removing the side markers altogether but that will be like shooting myself in the foot!

I guess I'm looking for comments and advice. Also any love for the medium 32" scale?

edobass · #2 03-11-2010, 07:29 PM

Quick update, I just pulled the bridge out and it is indeed bent and structurally stressed. Measured the hole from centre to centre and it's pretty close to the 85.7mm, Hipshot's metric measurement for the Supertone.

Now scouring evilBay for a Gibson/Epiphone 3-point bridge, I'm too cheap to lash out for a Supertone at the moment.

Deathblade Eric · #3 03-11-2010, 07:48 PM

Greetings.

Have you had a nose around here?

http://www.matsumoku.org/ggboard/index.php

Lots of love for Vantages, & more than a bit of solid info & advice. I'm sure I've seen something on these bridges failing as yours seems to be.

As it's a classic Matsumoku bass, the bridge fittings/centres etc. will be metric. U.S.A stuff tends to be Imperial & the two don't usually mix.

Pete.

edobass · #4 03-11-2010, 07:54 PM

Greetings Pete, thanks for the link, I will have a nose around or more in there!

mech · #5 03-12-2010, 06:14 AM

You can't convert from a 32" scale to a 34" scale. The scale length is set by the layout of the frets on the neck. The scale length is twice the distance from the top nut to the 12th fret.

mech

THPBass · #6 03-12-2010, 06:18 AM

I think the OP stated that it was a fretless, so changing the scale length is not a problem, other than the side markers being off, which he already addressed.

GeoffByrne · #7 03-12-2010, 06:24 AM

+1 on the above. To change the scale length, you'd need a different neck - difficult in this situation.

I had something like this & a previous owner had removed the bridge & filled it with a carved piece of maple (or ash) - beautiful job - probably professionally done.

I found a suitable lump of brass (actually an 8 string bridge) & put it on.

Looked like this:

G.

mech · #8 03-12-2010, 09:49 AM

Fretless. My bad. Posting answers before I wake up.

edobass · #9 03-12-2010, 05:24 PM

Thanks fo all the responses guys. That is a beautiful job on that bass..I like the bare brass look so much! I think changing the scale length would be a bit too much of hassle for me at the moment as I don't have the proper tools here to fill the hole - unless I just keep it uncovered heh.

I managed to swap around the saddles to make it slightly more playable. I noticed some ugly cracks where the bends are when I took out the saddles, so I guess filing the saddles wouldn't make much sense as the bridge is bound to break soon enough.

The guys at matsumoku reckon an epi bridge would fit fine so I might try that. Does anybody have any good epi bridge they don't want anymore?

T-Bird · #10 03-13-2010, 02:27 AM

Hi.

While not highly sought after or especially valuable, the Vantage instruments are among the best IMHO.

So I wouldn't vote for changing the scale. Even as it's super simple on a fretless and there seems to be enough room in the body.

Quote:

Originally Posted by edobass

Quick update, I just pulled the bridge out and it is indeed bent and structurally stressed. Measured the hole from centre to centre and it's pretty close to the 85.7mm, Hipshot's metric measurement for the Supertone.

Now scouring evilBay for a Gibson/Epiphone 3-point bridge, I'm too cheap to lash out for a Supertone at the moment.

Any friend with a shop press or even a hydraulic jack and some ingenuity, You can flatten the base-plate.

IME the Epi "oil-rig" is adequate for Epi, but I wouldn't use it on a build. Same probably goes for the Gibby.

I'd go for the Supertone and I'm a cheapskate as well

.

Regards
Sam

edobass · #11 03-13-2010, 03:13 AM

Hi T-Bird, I hear ya on the Vantage value and on the scale length change.

Are you saying I can just bend the bridge back into shape? I would've thought it would just bend back in no time. I'm seeing it more as a design issue now..hmm.

I need to check if the Supertone can give me a low enough action though.

Oil rig, is that what you guys call the 3-point bridge?

JustDavid · #12 03-13-2010, 05:40 AM

OP said fretless. Also said they were going to relocate the side markers as part of the scale change.

Deathblade Eric · #13 03-13-2010, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-Bird

Hi.

Any friend with a shop press or even a hydraulic jack and some ingenuity, You can flatten the base-plate.

Sam

I'd caution against pressing/bending it in this case tbh. A lot of the "budget" Matsumoku bridges are cast aluminium alloy - Pot Metal - & won't take kindly to flexing. If it were brass, no problem, but alloy is likely to crack completely & they can't be soldered/brazed back together.

The Aria TSB, Cardinal (CS) & RSB ranges all had models with alloy bridges.

Pete.

edobass · #14 03-14-2010, 05:08 PM

Cheers for that Pete.

edobass · #15 03-16-2010, 05:34 PM

I think I might install a tailpiece to eliminate the pull on the back of the 3-point bridge. Might get the Epiphone bridge and a cheap Ibanez Quik Change tailpiece, cut off the ears of the tailpiece, drill some holes in the middle and screw the tailpiece to the body.

Or I can just drill bigger holes to the body and install the tailpiece using the studs.

edobass · #16 03-17-2010, 12:15 AM

Went down the easy route. Bought an Allparts Epi bridge and Rotosound Tapewound and D'Addario Chromes. Should be schweet..Going for the pseudo-upright sound with the Roto and the Chromes for more modern sound when needed.

Thanks for the help everybody!

joegeezer · #17 03-21-2010, 05:46 PM

The Stanley Clarke Alembic is 32". Stanley seemed to play it OK.

tayal01 · #18 05-12-2011, 05:01 AM

I have exactly the same bass (Vantage VS600B Fretless) with exactly the same issue with the bridge.

In my case, the bridge appears to bent up at the A string and there is actually a crack in the bridge through which you can clearly see the thread on the intonation screw!

I suspect the damage has been caused by using too much force when trying to set the bridge height and the pull of the strings may be causing it to get worse. The A string is only just holding within the 'pincer' of the bridge hole.

Have you got a photo of the finished result? I'm considering going out and buying a new bass as I didn't think I'd be able to find a replacement bridge but you might have given me the answer with the Epi bridge.

tayal01 · #19 05-12-2011, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edobass

Went down the easy route. Bought an Allparts Epi bridge and Rotosound Tapewound and D'Addario Chromes. Should be schweet..Going for the pseudo-upright sound with the Roto and the Chromes for more modern sound when needed.

Thanks for the help everybody!

I'm going to try the same solution. Bridge ordered from Allparts. Let's hope it fits right.

edobass · #20 05-24-2011, 02:06 AM

Hi, sorry for the delay in responding, the forum is blocked at my workplace and I rarely get to use the computer at home.

I'm suspecting the damage was caused by metal fatigue, it looks more like continuous pressure instead of one big hit to the bridge.

I hope you've got the bridge replaced and everything, mine is working perfectly.