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08-21-2006, 04:05 PM
| | | | 76 P-Bass at-heel truss adjustment...
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Greetings, gentlemen. I'm trying to set up a 76 P-Bass with the truss rod adjustment at the heel of the neck. There's a Phillips screw there, but only half of it is visible/reachable. Does the pickguard need to be removed to adjust this thing's truss? | 
08-21-2006, 05:11 PM
| | Registered User Owner: Brevard Sound Systems | | Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Deltona, FL | | | Yeah, if you're lucky... You might have to go as far as taking the neck off to get to the truss rod adjustment. '76 with TR at the butt, didn't they go to the bullet TR in '74?? Maybe I am off on that. | 
08-21-2006, 08:05 PM
| | | | Take the neck off. I know it's a pain but it's the only way to do it right. On mine, I finally got out my router and routed out a channel right through the pickguard to get at the truss rod nut. It looks good and works, but if you don't want to alter the resale value of your bass, leave it alone. Myself, I don't care. I don't plan on selling it anyhow.
By the way, I don't think that's a Phillips. On mine and most other Fenders of that type, it's actually a large X, designed for a wide, flat screwdriver.
Last edited by 62bass : 08-21-2006 at 08:09 PM.
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08-21-2006, 08:16 PM
|  | I'd kill for a Nobel Peace Prize! | | Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Ottawa, Canada | | | You don't have to take off the neck completely. Just loosen the strings real slack. Then back off on the screws (they are *very* long) until you can tip up the neck enough to get at the truss fully.
Like 62bass mentioned, you usually use a flat screwdriver. But a huge phillips can work. | 
08-22-2006, 01:02 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2002 Location: Cottage Grove, St. Paul suburb | | | [quote=seanm]You don't have to take off the neck completely. Just loosen the strings real slack. Then back off on the screws (they are *very* long) until you can tip up the neck enough to get at the truss fully.
Doing it this way is asking for trouble, said my local Fender Gold Certified tech. The screws often enlarge the holes causing a real problem. Get a capo and attach it at the first fret with the strings still in the tuners, that will keep the strings from getting in the way. The local tech doesn't even detune, although I do. | 
08-22-2006, 01:33 PM
|  | I'd kill for a Nobel Peace Prize! | | Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Ottawa, Canada | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by lonote Doing it this way is asking for trouble, said my local Fender Gold Certified tech. The screws often enlarge the holes causing a real problem. | That does make sense. I never thought of that. Quote: |
Originally Posted by lonote The local tech doesn't even detune, although I do. | Now he just contradicted himself  Not detuning means a lot of tension of the neck and the screws will *really* try to enlarge the holes  Plus you would need a lot of arm strength to pull the neck back into place. | 
08-22-2006, 04:20 PM
| | | | I had a '75 that I didn't hold onto....don't ask, anyway it had the same setup, and all that was needed to get to the trus adjustment was to remove the pickguard.
If that won't do it, just remve the neck, as fiddling with it with the screws partially backed out is just asking for trouble.
Better yet, when in doubt, pay a qualified-pro to do it for you.
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08-23-2006, 07:05 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2002 Location: Cottage Grove, St. Paul suburb | | Now he just contradicted himself  Not detuning means a lot of tension of the neck and the screws will *really* try to enlarge the holes  Plus you would need a lot of arm strength to pull the neck back into place.[/quote]
I've seen him do it and he DOES have a lot of hand/arm strength. I detune, but only a step, and I have no problem. I'd have a big problem if I didn't detune, though. | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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