action on a stringray

[zazz]

just wondering if its worth putting my stingray in for a setup...its low but i want it real low. I am using medium rounds so what might i expect in terms of mm at the 12th fret from a great setup??

seems like about 2mm at the moment.

[Figjam]

Not many people get too much below 2mm on any bass. It just defies the laws of physics.

Action isnt the end all of bass. Im sure your bass plays fine.

[Sean Baumann]

How are you measuring that? Cuz, holy cow, 2mm = ~0.078 inches which is like 5/64". Are you measuring the relief, or the string height at the 12th fret?

if it i relief, that his definitely high, if it is string height that sounds really low to me already.

ps. this probably belongs in that other forum on setups.

[HMZ]

I set my basses up at 2/32. I really can’t go any lower with out the stings making noise agents the frets.

[zazz]

thanks guys....the 2mm is from the fret top to the underside of the string..thats like 3/32"....seems like there might be some room for improvement.

[Sean Baumann]

Probably. What is the relief set to? Fret the string at the first and last frets, and at the mid-pint (fret 7-8?) measure the distance between the string and the fret. I usually go to around 0.013-0.010"

That is a good first step.

[pickles]

Mine are set up (as most of my basses are) with barely perceptable relief when you fret the string at both the first and last fret (you should *just* be able to see a gap between the 12th fret and the string) ... and 2/32" on the G string, 3/32" on the E string measured at the 12th fret while fretting the first fret (to remove the nut from the equation). Thats what I call "low action". If thats still not playing as buttery and light as you like, you can try a a lighter string.

3/32" on the G string is what I'd call a "medium" action, if measured as above.

[Sean Baumann]

buy some feeler guages, they are cheap.. instead of eye-balling it. Just a friendly suggestion

[pickles]

Originally Posted by Sean Baumann

buy some feeler guages, they are cheap.. instead of eye-balling it. Just a friendly suggestion

No need. I've been setting up basses a looooong time, and know when its right both visually and by feel. The latter is MUCH more important than which feeler fits under the string anyway.

Also a more flexible string (and more resonant instrument) requires more relief. Determining that relief is something I do by playing the bass and seeing where it buzzes.

[ddnidd1]

Originally Posted by pickles

Mine are set up (as most of my basses are) with barely perceptable relief when you fret the string at both the first and last fret (you should *just* be able to see a gap between the 12th fret and the string) ... and 2/32" on the G string, 3/32" on the E string measured at the 12th fret while fretting the first fret (to remove the nut from the equation). Thats what I call "low action". If thats still not playing as buttery and light as you like, you can try a a lighter string.

3/32" on the G string is what I'd call a "medium" action, if measured as above.

To measure the string height you indicate you fret at the 1st fret to remove the nut from the equation. Unless you're using a capo when you play, the inclusion of the nut will always be essential to accurately measuring string height/action.

[pickles]

Originally Posted by ddnidd1

To measure the string height you indicate you fret at the 1st fret to remove the nut from the equation. Unless you're using a capo when you play, the inclusion of the nut will always be essential to accurately measuring string height/action.

Nut height needs to be correct, but you want to measure that separately from the saddle height. Once you fret any note on the fingerboard, the nut is no longer a factor in the vibration of the string. It will effect the feel of fretting (and intonation) in low positions if it is wrong, but otherwise it should only effect open notes.

All of the techniques I use when setting up a bass (which I learned from Roger Sadowsky's article in bass player many years ago), are designed to isolate the various adjustments, and make each one correct without being confused by the others.

[pickles]

This has been my setup bible ever since I first read it. Works great!

http://www.sadowsky.com/media/pdf/te...bass_setup.pdf

Thanks Roger!

[ddnidd1]

This may be nitpicking, but once you have fretted a note and the string is held down against the fret, as you play higher notes on the same string the height of the string will be 'barely' above the fret and Much lower than for instance (arbitrarily) 2/32".

However, every time you move from one string to another you're dealing with pressing down an open string. The feel of the action (string height) of the open string is created by the combined height of the saddle and the nut.

[SGT. Pepper]

Originally Posted by pickles

No need. I've been setting up basses a looooong time, and know when its right both visually and by feel. The latter is MUCH more important than which feeler fits under the string anyway.

Also a more flexible string (and more resonant instrument) requires more relief. Determining that relief is something I do by playing the bass and seeing where it buzzes.

+1 on that. I eye them up too.

[zazz]

great link by the way pickles!! i am also wondering if makes such as mm could benefit from fret dressing once all else is said and done?

[Turnaround]

Originally Posted by pickles

No need. I've been setting up basses a looooong time, and know when its right both visually and by feel. The latter is MUCH more important than which feeler fits under the string anyway.

I set them up till it plays right for the owner, THEN I measure them. That's so I can set it up to the same way in the future.

[pickles]

Originally Posted by zazz

great link by the way pickles!! i am also wondering if makes such as mm could benefit from fret dressing once all else is said and done?

Both of mine ('05 models) have great fretwork from the factory.