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09-14-2006, 06:30 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Horsham, PA (Philly suburb) | | | Advice needed - offering defretting service
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I've defretted three of my basses and finished the fretboards with lacquer. The results have been excellent. I've noticed on here that someone commented about a long backlog for a particular company that provided a similar service.
My question is this: I've thought about doing it on the side. How would you suggest I get started with it? I think the challenging part would be the pricing at first. It is a fairly labor-intensive process, but without an existing base of satisfied clients and the associated reputation, it would be hard to charge a price that would make it worth my while for the time. | 
09-14-2006, 06:35 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Horsham, PA (Philly suburb) | | | Just in case you're wondering - I'm not asking this to elicit business here. I have not decided yet if I'm going to pursue it. If I do, I'll do it properly regarding the commercial requirements here at TB. | 
09-14-2006, 06:46 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Atlanta/Loganville | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by BobWestbrook I've defretted three of my basses and finished the fretboards with lacquer. The results have been excellent. I've noticed on here that someone commented about a long backlog for a particular company that provided a similar service.
My question is this: I've thought about doing it on the side. How would you suggest I get started with it? I think the challenging part would be the pricing at first. It is a fairly labor-intensive process, but without an existing base of satisfied clients and the associated reputation, it would be hard to charge a price that would make it worth my while for the time. | Ferget about it.
I'm very serious - save yourself a lot of trouble. The "Lab" you've mentioned produces the finest epoxy finish you could ever hope to attain. I'm not kidding - these things are perfect in every respect. He uses a secret process to attain this high level of quality. That's precisely why he has a 2 year waiting list! Nothing compares. Your mention of using "lacquer" worries me. IMO it's quite unsuitable as serious protection for a fretless. While lacquer is considered a fairly hard finish, it doesn't approach the hardness of epoxy. It's not a matter of thickness, it's a matter of molecular structure. Another problem is that lacquer is an organic finish and with organic finishes, it's almost a sure thing that the oils and gunk from the human body will eventually break it down. You don't see any lacquer on the back of well played vintage guitars because player sweat, and friction wiped it away.
Now, just so I don't sound too negative, put your efforts towards surpassing the commercial finish and you'll be more successful.  | 
09-14-2006, 08:13 PM
| | | | With practice using other materials you can probably do a good job. I've done a few epoxy fretless jobs myself and they've turned out nice. But I wouldn't try to base a business on that alone. There are not enough customers to make it pay. It'd sort of be like starting up a men's clothing store and only selling 30" waist jeans. Nothing else, just 30" waist jeans. | 
09-14-2006, 08:31 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Horsham, PA (Philly suburb) | | Thanks for the opinions, I appreciate it!
Even if I did it, it would be just a sideline thing (I'm a computer consultant), not a full-time endeavor.
I think the hardest part would be convincing others to leave their "baby" in the hands of a stranger.
I'm open to other suggestions, if anyone has any. | 
09-14-2006, 08:58 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Horsham, PA (Philly suburb) | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by Hambone While lacquer is considered a fairly hard finish, it doesn't approach the hardness of epoxy. | True, lacquer is not as hard, but from my experience it seems sufficiently hard and durable.
It is organic, but that seems part of the appeal to me -- a more "organic" fretless sound. | 
09-21-2006, 11:24 AM
| | Dingwalls & fEarfuls... | | Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Denver, CO | | | Fingerboard finishes Epoxy is nice on a fretless, but I like a more natural fingerboard feel.
I defretted an Ibanez BTB 405 recently and used "Wipe on Poly" as the fretboard finish.
Here's a picture of it:
On the plus side, anyone who has ever tried to sand off polyurethane knows how difficult it is to abrade that finish. Plus, the coats go on VERY thin, so there are no brush marks and the feel is still very natural and woody. Also, any future repairs will be extremely easy.
The only downer is the long cure time; I live in Colorado where relative humidity has been in the 20% range and it still took 3-4 days before the finish was no longer tacky. | 
09-21-2006, 12:07 PM
| | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by groovaholic Epoxy is nice on a fretless, but I like a more natural fingerboard feel.
I defretted an Ibanez BTB 405 recently and used "Wipe on Poly" as the fretboard finish.
Here's a picture of it:
On the plus side, anyone who has ever tried to sand off polyurethane knows how difficult it is to abrade that finish. Plus, the coats go on VERY thin, so there are no brush marks and the feel is still very natural and woody. Also, any future repairs will be extremely easy.
The only downer is the long cure time; I live in Colorado where relative humidity has been in the 20% range and it still took 3-4 days before the finish was no longer tacky. | If you're using regular store bought wipe on poly, it is not at all as hard as the specialized catalyzed polyurethane finishes used by instrument manufacturers and on mass produced furniture (and other products) They both have polyurethane in them but the paint and hardware store polyurethanes are much softer when dry and will remove as easily as varnish or paint with paint stripper. The other stuff will not.
If your wipe on poly is taking that long to dry at a comfortable room temperature and only 20% humidity, something seems a bit odd. It may be old and when this stuff (and oil based paint and varnish) gets old, the drying agents added by the manufacturer degrade. If it's too old it won't harden at all. I once bought a can of polyurethane from a hardware store (it was on sale) that had been there for years and it took almost a week to dry.
One thing you can do is add a bit of Japan dryer, available in paint stores. | 
09-22-2006, 12:44 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Madison, NJ | | Quote: |
Originally Posted by 62bass With practice using other materials you can probably do a good job. I've done a few epoxy fretless jobs myself and they've turned out nice. But I wouldn't try to base a business on that alone. There are not enough customers to make it pay. It'd sort of be like starting up a men's clothing store and only selling 30" waist jeans. Nothing else, just 30" waist jeans. | You'd get MY business!
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09-22-2006, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by tplyons You'd get MY business! | For 30" waist jeans or defretting?  | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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