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  #1  
Old 06-04-2008, 01:35 AM
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What is your routine check list to go through after you buy a bass? Tune it up and start playing - completely gut all the factory hardware and replace with your own gear?

I haven't really messed around with my (only) bass.
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  #2  
Old 06-04-2008, 05:44 AM
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Setup:
  • Neck relief
  • String height
  • Pickup height

After doing the setup, I "evaluate" the bass in terms of the minimum usable string-height (lower action is betterer!).

Note: Before I leave the store, I "sight" the neck looking for warpage. Neck warpage is bad...
  #3  
Old 06-04-2008, 06:12 AM
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Change the strings and do a setup, I guess. Unless it just came from the factory... then tune up and play.
  #4  
Old 06-04-2008, 07:48 AM
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Usually I change out the pickup (big fan of Seymour Duncan, here) and string it with TI Jazz Flats, then tune it, check the relief, check the intonation (a good idea when you change strings anyway).
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  #5  
Old 06-04-2008, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbcandle View Post
Setup:
  • Neck relief
  • String height
  • Pickup height

After doing the setup, I "evaluate" the bass in terms of the minimum usable string-height (lower action is betterer!).
+1 (but also + check the intonation)

Although I wouldn't automatically sign on to the lower/betterer campaign. I feel like each Bass has it's own sweet spot with string height and action, and I usually end up doing the three adjustments above a few times within the first few weeks just to see where that sweet spot is.

I might feel like I've got it on the first try, but then take it to practice and realize I'm digging in too much for the action or something. For me it takes some tweaking, but I think I'm a tinkerer by nature.

Also, I usually leave the strings on for a month if they're a brand I'm unfamiliar with just to try them out.
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  #6  
Old 06-05-2008, 09:13 AM
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1. Tune it and start playing.
2. Change the strings.
3. Tweak the action.
4. Re-tune it and start playing.
5. I would'nt buy a bass that "needed" gutting.
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  #7  
Old 06-05-2008, 02:24 PM
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I make sure it's what I want BEFORE I buy it. After I buy it I'll probably change strings if they're the wrong gauge (I really like 45/65/85/105). I'll do a basic action/truss rod adjustment and intonation. Then I'll play it for a few weeks before I do anything else. Let it settle in to the humidity and temperature, to my strings, and how I play before I start doing major work.

I only change PUPs if I know the PUPs will translate what's going on acoustically better. I've not changed bass PUPs in over 10 years. And I've not gotten rid of a bass I bought in over seven years.

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  #8  
Old 06-05-2008, 05:02 PM
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Setup

Stock strings usually stay on until I can't stand them due to lack of sustain/harmonics UNLESS they feel like barbed wire or have way too much tension. They get changed to medium light after age or if they are garbage from the factory.

Nothing else gets done unless all of these cosmically align and happen at the same time:
1) "Extra" $$$ lying around
2) Boredom or too much "spare" time
3) Pickups or electronics/pots are truly lame

As it is now, I've 3 basses "waiting" for #2 to show up.
Two basses have new pickups to be installed "someday"
One bass(a regular player!) has three(3) pots that crackle and need replacing. STILL not done.
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  #9  
Old 06-05-2008, 05:08 PM
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How to setup a bass
  #10  
Old 06-05-2008, 08:11 PM
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1) Neck Relief
2) Action (string height)
3) Intonation
4) Pickup Height (only if needed - used)

I wouldn't buy a bass that needed "gutting" either.
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