Anti-neck dive device?

fretlessman71 · #1 07-30-2008, 12:32 PM

Got an idea here, maybe it's been done before. Don't really care about WHOSE idea it is, if someone starts making one I'll be honored.

Seems to me that if a bass had a particular problem with neck dive, you could extend the strap button out 2" or so and alleviate most of the problem.

So if you took a bolt, for instance, one about 5" long, and installed it so it only went into the body about 2-2.5", and found a way to attach a strap to that (without it sliding down the bolt towards the body), you'd change the balance point of the bass on your shoulder, and make the neck less of a "lever".

Does this already exist? I realize you couldn't do this to a vintage bass...

NJL · #2 07-30-2008, 12:36 PM

do a search, this has been covered... a long time ago, but has been covered..

Erick Lam · #3 07-30-2008, 12:37 PM

Just place the bridge button higher on the body. This has worked with every basses I've owned.

Lawlzfitzgerald · #4 07-30-2008, 12:39 PM

it'd look pretty ugly but it just may work.
my only worries would be the bolt ripping out of the the upper horn or something because of the torque. but if you have a high quality bass it shouldnt be a problem.

i dont have much of a nick dive problem. however i have found that high friction straps (suede, if theres a rubber strap made) cure the problem. but it makes the bass kinda stiff and you cant really shift its position unless you pull on the strap.

but then it ends up tugging on your clothes and you look awkward.

fretlessman71 · #5 07-30-2008, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NJL

do a search, this has been covered... a long time ago, but has been covered..

I had no luck - just found a bunch of threads complaining about basses with neck dive. Maybe you're more talented than I in this regard, and a display of said talents would be appreciated.

Erick - could you elaborate? I'm not getting a picture in my head of what you mean...

Erick Lam · #6 07-30-2008, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fretlessman71

Erick - could you elaborate? I'm not getting a picture in my head of what you mean...

Here, see where the strap attaches. With the neck level, both strap buttons are pretty much at the same height. You don't have to put the bridge button *that* high but at least above the bridge. You could go Gary Willis style and add a second button below the bridge for a permanent bass stand.

fretlessman71 · #7 07-30-2008, 01:06 PM

AHA! Makes sense. Might have to try that on a bass or two - my hollowbodies tend to be very neck-heavy.

Erick Lam · #8 07-30-2008, 01:09 PM

Just don't hold me responsible for any holes drilled into your basses.

Bob C · #9 07-30-2008, 01:11 PM

Years ago, in the "It's New" page of GP (or maybe BP) magazine I saw a gadget that was a plate that screwed into the back of the upper horn - sort of a prosthesis extension with a strap pin on it. This was to correct neck dive. I can't see putting that on a vintage bass. Plus, it didn't even look that attractive. But the intent was good.

fretlessman71 · #10 07-30-2008, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob C

Years ago, in the "It's New" page of GP (or maybe BP) magazine I saw a gadget that was a plate that screwed into the back of the upper horn - sort of a prosthesis extension with a strap pin on it. This was to correct neck dive. I can't see putting that on a vintage bass. Plus, it didn't even look that attractive. But the intent was good.

I had seen a device that fit underneath the neckplate and extended out past the strap button before... would be less "permanent" and might be stronger, who knows. But if you have a neck-through, you're SCREWED (as it were).

EADG mx · #11 07-30-2008, 01:16 PM

I think in most cases, what you need is a new bass.

fretlessman71 · #12 07-30-2008, 01:17 PM

Gotcha. Can I have yours?

EADG mx · #13 07-30-2008, 01:19 PM

It dives pretty badly so it wouldn't be an improvement.

I've looked for anti-dive remedies. Any I've been suggested either involve adding weight (to an already heavy instrument), doing modifications (destroying the resale value), spending money (ex. lightweight tuners), or any combination of the 3.

It's just not worth it. Get a new bass.

fretlessman71 · #14 07-30-2008, 01:21 PM

When it comes to free gear, I'm not that picky.

Bob C · #15 07-30-2008, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fretlessman71

I had seen a device that fit underneath the neckplate and extended out past the strap button before... would be less "permanent" and might be stronger, who knows. But if you have a neck-through, you're SCREWED (as it were).

Hey, now that you mention it, I'll bet that is the design I saw a million years ago. Makes a little more sense.

EADG mx · #16 07-30-2008, 01:26 PM

Well my point is that neck dive, imo, is a design flaw. You're putting time, money, and effort into solving a problem that shouldn't be there in the first place. In extreme cases it's just not worth fixing.

**Horny Toad** · #17 07-30-2008, 01:36 PM

What kind of bass are we talking about? Just curious.

Pilgrim · #18 07-30-2008, 01:47 PM

Aside from moving strap buttons, lightening the headstock hardware and adding weight to the bottom, one idea I've seen is to use a much longer screw for the top strap button, and "sleeve" it with a small diameter piece of pope. Result was to extend the top strap button about 2" with a screw running through a metal sleeve and the strap button on the end. I don't know how long the screw would hold stable.

There are MANY places you can re-position the bottom strap button. Sometimes moving it further around the bass toward the G-string side helps. A couple of pieces of masking tape on the strap end can let you experiment gently with various strap placements.

fretlessman71 · #19 07-30-2008, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pilgrim

Aside from moving strap buttons, lightening the headstock hardware and adding weight to the bottom, one idea I've seen is to use a much longer screw for the top strap button, and "sleeve" it with a small diameter piece of pope. Result was to extend the top strap button about 2" with a screw running through a metal sleeve and the strap button on the end. I don't know how long the screw would hold stable.

There are MANY places you can re-position the bottom strap button. Sometimes moving it further around the bass toward the G-string side helps. A couple of pieces of masking tape on the strap end can let you experiment gently with various strap placements.

I like this idea... provided I can get a screw long enough to do what I want it to do (and NOT do what I DON'T want it to do, namely "bend").

The impetus for this thread is a bass I own with a Tele-style body that sounds wonderful, but hangs weird on me because there's no "horn" for the strap button. Not a big deal on a 25" guitar, but the extra scale length of a bass poses reach problems. This might be a good fix... until I'm able to swap basses with EADG mx.

MR PC · #20 07-30-2008, 11:02 PM

Rick Turners's semi=acoustic basses use something called a "Dinghus" a unit that attaches to the back of the bass. I'm not sure why he didn't design the bass to be balanced in the first place......

From his website:

Accessories for Renaissance Basses
AC-D4 The "Dingus" 4 string strap position extender
AC-D5 The "Dingus" 5 string strap position extender