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09-14-2010, 12:54 PM
|  | Registered User | | | | | Any ideas how I can adjust my intonation?
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For those with a Warwick Corvette, how do you adjust the intonation?
I know at first that seems like a stupid question, but the placement of the split bridge makes it difficult to get a screwdriver in there to adjust the saddles. I've bought some angled screwdrivers but they're a little too long, so same problem!
So, without taking the bridge off, I'm stumped. I think taking the bridge on and off about 10 times every string change would be like, horrendously irritating
You see in the picture that the intonation screws are in a really awkward place... bit of a design flaw on Warwick's part?
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Fender - Promethean - Markbass
Last edited by Evil Undead : 04-25-2011 at 04:48 PM.
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09-14-2010, 12:59 PM
|  | Registered User | | | | Um also, if anyone can tell me how the length and width of the screws that would be awesome
I've been trying to measure them, but getting nowhere... I can't tell if the width is 2.5 or 3mm, and if the length should include the head as well
The reason I need this is because in trying to adjust the intonation, I've messed up the heads of the screws (due to the silly angles!) and need to replace them next time I change my strings... but don't want to take the screws out until it's time for me to replace them... I'll do them one at a time so I don't get messed up
Any help would be massively appreciated 
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09-14-2010, 01:29 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Finland (Northern Europe) | | Hi.
Hard to tell from the pic, but it does sound like the bridge is mounted the wrong way around.
While there's not as much room between the body and the screws as there is in Gibson T-O-M, installing the bridge so the screw heads face the neck makes a world of difference.
OTOH, it's been a great while since I've seen a Warwick up close, but it's still the bridge that I'm probably going to use when I start building again, so I've been eyeing 'em a lot  .
As for the measurements, the lenght is without the head, and the best way to find the pitch and diameter is to compare the screw with a known nut. If You can find Allen head screws, you can buy a special ball end wrench as well. Of course it's going to cost a bit, but it's worth it in the long run.
Regards
Sam | 
09-14-2010, 01:45 PM
|  | Registered User | | | | I thought it was odd that the bridge was mounted that way round, but it's the same on all Warwicks, I've done my research
Allen head screws? Hmm, that's worth a thought... the wrenches I have are angled and they're shorter than the angled screwdrivers, so could get into smaller places.
I'm a bit nervous about replacing the screws myself as I've never done it before and don't want to mess it up, but it's not that difficult is it?
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09-14-2010, 01:49 PM
|  | Registered User | | | | | Oh, I'm also a bit reluctant to remove the screws until I absolutely have to.
Part of me thinks that perhaps I should leave it all well alone and carry on adjusting the intonation as I am until the screwheads are completely knackered, and then take it to a tech to sort out?
I do wonder though, if I continue to use the same brand of strings and gauge, will I need to adjust the intonation very often? I only had to adjust it once really, and I figured that was only because I changed from 110's to 105's and different brand.
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09-14-2010, 02:59 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Chicago | | Looking at the manual: http://www.warwick.de/media/manuals/...sManual_EN.pdf
it looks like there are adjustment screws on the front and back of each saddle, so orientation wouldn't resolve the issue, just change which set is harder to get at. And if you flipped it, then the direction you turn a screwdriver for a particular intonation alteration would be reversed, and then warwick would need to issue TWO sets of instructions for its instruments, effectively defeating one of the cost benefits of having a standardized bridge...
I can't quite visualize why you can't get a normal screwdriver in there -- a skinny one should be able to get over the tailpiece fine. I assume you're taking the string off before making adjustments, right? But worst case, you would only have to take the tailpiece off any time you wanted to readjust everything...which bites, but it's not that awful. I'd saturate the mount holes with ac glue to make it easier to avoid stripping the holes.
For replacements, your best bet may be to contact warwick directly -- they may surprise you and have the easiest way to get new screws.
good luck!
ltt
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09-15-2010, 03:27 AM
|  | Registered User | | | | There are no screws on the other side of the saddle that I can see.
And lol, yes I'm taking the string off before trying to make any adjustments
I've tried all sorts of screwdrivers, skinny ones, angled ones, the works. The angle just makes it impossible. The screwdriver does go into the head of the screw, but at an angle, so it's stripping the head of the screw.
An Allen bolt would definitely be better, but without taking one of the screws out, I can't measure the size.
I've emailed Warwick directly as you suggested  so hopefully they will be able to come up with something.
My bass is my pride and joy so I just wanna keep it in top condition 
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09-15-2010, 03:37 AM
| | | | I have zero trouble adjusting my corvette's intonation with, for lack of a better description, a plain old normal screwdriver.
I'm probably not one to question someone else's screwing technique, but it does seem to be the only variable here | 
09-15-2010, 05:00 AM
|  | Registered User | | | |
Hmm... I wonder what I'm doing wrong. I kinda wanna try it again and see if there's anything I can alter, but don't want to cause further damage
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09-15-2010, 09:54 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Chicago | | Are you unlocking the bridge? There manual says there are two screws on top of the bridge that have to be loosened with an allen key before the intonation adjustments can be made. Without strings (and assume the locking screws are loose) the saddles should move easily, and it should be nearly impossible to get enough pressure on the screws to strip them
Can you get some closeups of the top and back of the bridge with enough light that we can make out whatever screws are there?
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Lethargy Tar-Tare: Born of beer and lack of adult supervision. My Feedback | 
09-15-2010, 11:48 AM
|  | Registered User | | | | | ohhhhhhhhhhhh.... Now I feel silly
I didn't have a clue that the bridge could be unlocked. Doh!
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09-15-2010, 12:15 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Chicago | |
Then I REALLY suggest you go read that manual I linked to -- it tells you how to do all of the adjustments that are available with that bridge -- pretty well written, with illustrations.
Good luck, man!
ltt
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Lethargy Tar-Tare: Born of beer and lack of adult supervision. My Feedback | 
09-15-2010, 02:20 PM
|  | Supporting Member | | Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Metro Boston MA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Undead There are no screws on the other side of the saddle that I can see.
And lol, yes I'm taking the string off before trying to make any adjustments
I've tried all sorts of screwdrivers, skinny ones, angled ones, the works. The angle just makes it impossible. The screwdriver does go into the head of the screw, but at an angle, so it's stripping the head of the screw.
An Allen bolt would definitely be better, but without taking one of the screws out, I can't measure the size.
I've emailed Warwick directly as you suggested  so hopefully they will be able to come up with something.
My bass is my pride and joy so I just wanna keep it in top condition  | Did you find the locking screws shown on Page 7 of the Warwick Manual?
You've read these, right? ALL BASIC SETUP QUESTIONS ANSWERED HERE
I must have read this part wrong - You are taking the strings off to adjust intonation?
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