Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilgrim  BTW - with floating bridges, you sometimes have to angle the bridge for intonation rather than keeping it at 90 degrees to the body. |
Just like setting the intonation on any instrument. The harmonic IS exactly the octave of the open string, unless your strings are in really bad condition. The function of setting intonation is to move the strings' total length to get them to play relatively in tune while compensating for the stretch and the additional length they need when being fretted (pushing 'em from straight down to the fret).
If the fretted note is sharp compared to the open string/12th fret harmonic, that means the distance from the 12th fret to the bridge is too short (just like fretting a string makes it shorter and causes it to be a higher pitch). So, you have to move that saddle further from the 12th fret to make the string longer. If the fretted note is flat, then you have to move the saddle closer to make the 12th fret-saddle distance shorter.
On a floating bridge like this instrument has, measure from the leading edge (fingerboard side) of the nut to the center of the 12th fret. Then measure that exact distance from the center of the 12th fret to the middle of the saddle. That's your STARTING point. Then work to get the E and G strings to intonate properly (and the bridge will probably be slanted, like the bridge pickup on a Stratocaster or the bridge saddle on a flat-top acoustic guitar). Play it and see if the other two strings are acceptable. You may have to play around a good bit to get all four strings to play equally out of tune.
Once you find that spot (which will only apply to the set of strings and action you have on it now, so if you go to a different alloy, gauge, composition, or brand of string you may need to repeat this) some people like to put a very thin bit of very fine sandpaper under the bridge feet to keep it from moving. I don't like that because if you accidentally hit it, it's going to leave a visible scar. Just be careful.
John
