Aside from raising the action...

[Alvaro Martín Gómez A.]

...what's the best solution to this problem?

http://www.ebaumsworld.com/audio/play/81013166/

Those are the sounds from a 24-fret 4-string bass played on the 19th fret. As you can hear, G and D strings are fine, E isn't that good and A shows a real problem, which doesn't happen on any other fret. The thing is, I performed my usual setup routine on this bass (from a student) and both action and relief are exactly as on my own instruments, which don't have that problem. Is there a way to fix this problem without deviating from my own setup specifications (raising action)? Thank you in advance for your input!

P.S.: In case you want to know, I set string action to 3/32 of an inch from the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of the strings, which I don't think can be considered as "super low action". Relif is adjusted by feel, using the method shown by Gary Willis in his website (http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass...l/relief2.html).

[Rick Auricchio]

It could be a low 19th or high 20th fret. You should have a luthier check it out. They have straightedge tools to check the frets.

[FunkMetalBass]

Sounds like it needs a fret level.

[Turnaround]

3 /32" at the twelfth fret would not be considered super low action - rather medium low. I would suggest that you change your settings so that there is less string height on the D and G strings and more on the E and A.

Relief is not going to make any difference at the 19th fret, so there's no sense looking for a solution there. You can narrow the variables to string height and how even the frets are. I would first check for the levelness of fret from 12 to 24, then look at optimizing the string height.

[Jazzdogg]

Are you measuring the clearance beneath the "A" string at the twelfth fret while the string is being held down at the first fret?

[Alvaro Martín Gómez A.]

Originally Posted by Jazzdogg

Are you measuring the clearance beneath the "A" string at the twelfth fret while the string is being held down at the first fret?

For measuring action, no. For relief, I hold the string down both at the first and last frets (using my right elbow and my left index finger) and check the clearance by feel.

Originally Posted by Turnaround

I would suggest that you change your settings so that there is less string height on the D and G strings and more on the E and A.

Actually, after all the strings are at the same height (3/32" at the 12th fret) I lower the G string by 1/64" and raise the low B (on a 5-string, of course) by the same amount.

[Turnaround]

Originally Posted by Alvaro Martín Gómez A.

Actually, after all the strings are at the same height (3/32" at the 12th fret) I lower the G string by 1/64" and raise the low B (on a 5-string, of course) by the same amount.

So you leave the E, A and D strings at the same height, namely 3/32" ? If you set the B and G differently, why wouldn't you graduate the other strings?
Seems odd to me.

[Alvaro Martín Gómez A.]

Originally Posted by Turnaround

So you leave the E, A and D strings at the same height, namely 3/32" ? If you set the B and G differently, why wouldn't you graduate the other strings?
Seems odd to me.

What I understand is: Leaving all the strings at the same height means that they are perfectly following the fingerboard radius, which is the ideal situation, assuming that the pickups were designed with the fingerboard radius in mind. But the G string is quieter than the others, so it should be slightly closer to the pickups to compensate for that. On the other hand, the heaviest string is louder, so it should be slightly farther from the pickup for the same reason.

[tobie]

Originally Posted by Alvaro Martín Gómez A.

the G string is quieter than the others, so it should be slightly closer to the pickups to compensate for that. On the other hand, the heaviest string is louder, so it should be slightly farther from the pickup for the same reason.

Does your bass not allow you to rather 'slope' your pickup (further from your G, closer to your B) to achieve this instead of adjusting string height?

[Alvaro Martín Gómez A.]

Originally Posted by tobie

Does your bass not allow you to rather 'slope' your pickup (further from your G, closer to your B) to achieve this instead of adjusting string height?

Yes. But as far as I understand, adjusting string height is much better because only the desired string(s)' volume will be affected. Tilting the pickups affects all the strings in one way or another.

[Rickett Customs]

Originally Posted by FunkMetalBass

Sounds like it needs a fret level.

+1

[Alvaro Martín Gómez A.]

Originally Posted by Rickett Customs

+1

I like to do my own setups, but I've never dealt with fret levelling. Can I do that with some kind of tool without implying any major repair job to the instrument or is it better to leave it to a luthier?

[Rickett Customs]

Originally Posted by Alvaro Martín Gómez A.

I like to do my own setups, but I've never dealt with fret levelling. Can I do that with some kind of tool without implying any major repair job to the instrument or is it better to leave it to a luthier?

If you dare


You would need a few things:

A radius block to match the radius, some 300 grit "stikit" sandpaper (you can both from Stewmac, for example.
Don't need to give it too much down pressure, let the sandpaper do most of the work, you just keep it running straight.

A fret crowing file, to re-crown the tops of the frets, again stewmac has these in various fret sizes.

either 0000 steel wool or a dremel with a polishing wheel and polishing compound. If you don't have a dremel, the steel wool will work fine for polishing the frets.

A 3'straight edge, or long metal rule that has a straight edge on it, to check the overall level of the frets

Use a red or black marker, to "color the frets, before leveling with the block, so you can see just how much you need to take off, recrown the tips of the frets back to shape, then tape off the fretboard between the frets and polish the frets.

This is a valuable thing to know and do, if you do it right.

[Turnaround]

Originally Posted by Alvaro Martín Gómez A.

What I understand is: Leaving all the strings at the same height means that they are perfectly following the fingerboard radius, which is the ideal situation, assuming that the pickups were designed with the fingerboard radius in mind. But the G string is quieter than the others, so it should be slightly closer to the pickups to compensate for that. On the other hand, the heaviest string is louder, so it should be slightly farther from the pickup for the same reason.

Following the fingerboard radius is a good idea, but the fact is that the heavier strings tend to have a larger vibration arc than the lighter ones, so they require more clearance. The heavier the string, the more clearance needed. So since the strings are all different, they should have different clearances. Typically this is done by graduating the string height from lowest on the G to highest on the B, each string incrementally adjusted from its neighbour. You still follow the fretboard radius, but just at a slight angle.

[Alvaro Martín Gómez A.]

Originally Posted by Turnaround

Following the fingerboard radius is a good idea, but the fact is that the heavier strings tend to have a larger vibration arc than the lighter ones, so they require more clearance. The heavier the string, the more clearance needed. So since the strings are all different, they should have different clearances. Typically this is done by graduating the string height from lowest on the G to highest on the B, each string incrementally adjusted from its neighbour. You still follow the fretboard radius, but just at a slight angle.

Haven't seen that approach mentioned before and sounds both logical and interesting. I'll give it a try. Thank you!