Badass III Retrofit - Any Problems?

Illbay · #1 05-15-2009, 08:24 AM

In my sheer ignorance, I purchased a Badass III bridge for my MIM P-bass. I guess I don't feel so bad; even the local Fender dealer didn't realize that the newer MIA Fenders have a three-screw attachment, while the MIMs (and older MIAs) have five-screw.

Anyway, I would like to know if I can have the Badass III retrofitted to the MIM Fender without much problem. I'll continue to use the top-load, but I wonder if there's any problem plugging the old screw holes, or if the three screws will be sufficient.

Thanks in advance.

Illbay · #2 05-15-2009, 08:47 AM

Bump.

excane · #3 05-15-2009, 08:48 AM

I'm curious about the BAIII as well....was thinking about putting it on my American quilted jazz deluxe.

lug · #4 05-15-2009, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Illbay

In my sheer ignorance, I purchased a Badass III bridge for my MIM P-bass. I guess I don't feel so bad; even the local Fender dealer didn't realize that the newer MIA Fenders have a three-screw attachment, while the MIMs (and older MIAs) have five-screw.

Anyway, I would like to know if I can have the Badass III retrofitted to the MIM Fender without much problem. I'll continue to use the top-load, but I wonder if there's any problem plugging the old screw holes, or if the three screws will be sufficient.

Thanks in advance.

You should be able to use the same middle hole and use the old holes to line up the two on the side. You might have to plug up the old holes (depends on where the new ones have to be located. You can do this with a small dowel and simple elmer's glue.

Illbay · #5 05-15-2009, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lug

You should be able to use the same middle hole and use the old holes to line up the two on the side. You might have to plug up the old holes (depends on where the new ones have to be located. You can do this with a small dowel and simple elmer's glue.

That's what I figured as far as the mechanics of the thing, but I'm more concerned about whether the bridge will stay put!

(Oh, and I should say that I'm really not that much of a hobbyist in this regard. I have a good guitar tech/luthier that I get to do all these things, but although he does good work he's not an expert on basses, and I'm not sure if even he could answer this question. If someone has done this, I'd sure like to know).

Illbay · #6 05-15-2009, 10:02 AM

Bump. I really need some input on this.

JustOpenYourMind · #7 05-15-2009, 10:06 AM

Yes the bridge will stay put, if it doesn't move on Mia basses when top loading the strings it shouldn't move on your bass.

My Mia P-bass is top loaded with flats since last year, The bridge didn't move one bit.

Unless they started making mim basses with styrofoam bodies, yours should be fine.

Illbay · #8 05-15-2009, 10:39 AM

Yeah, I was thinking more about the possible zones of weakness introduced by the existing holes.

JustOpenYourMind · #9 05-15-2009, 12:29 PM

If you plug them approriatly, this should not matter

El Beardo · #10 05-15-2009, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lug

You should be able to use the same middle hole and use the old holes to line up the two on the side. You might have to plug up the old holes (depends on where the new ones have to be located. You can do this with a small dowel and simple elmer's glue.

I switched from the original Badass bridge to the Badass III and I did this exactly(well, I used wood glue) and it worked perfectly. It wasn't a fender but it was the same issue.

Illbay · #11 05-15-2009, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by El Beardo

I switched from the original Badass bridge to the Badass III and I did this exactly(well, I used wood glue) and it worked perfectly. It wasn't a fender but it was the same issue.

Thanks, El Beardo, I was really looking for a "been there, done that" testimonial.

bassgod76 · #12 06-22-2009, 01:38 PM

[quote=Illbay;7400956]Thanks, El Beardo, I was really looking for a "been there, done that" testimonial.[/QUOTE

How do you get the dowel flush without ruining the finish by sanding?

RobertPaulson · #13 06-22-2009, 01:41 PM

i usually cut it beforehand then lightly tap it in with a center punch or nail set until it's flush. Probably not "proper" technique, but always worked for me.

bassgod76 · #14 06-22-2009, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobertPaulson

i usually cut it beforehand then lightly tap it in with a center punch or nail set until it's flush. Probably not "proper" technique, but always worked for me.

Oh so you pre cut the dowel length to the hole drilled? Very wise!

RobertPaulson · #15 06-22-2009, 01:44 PM

yep, I push it down in then make a mark on the dowel, then cut just a hair below that. If the dowel is tight just measure with a piece of wire or something.