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08-29-2007, 04:32 AM
| | | | Bass balancing
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Hi,
I've just bought a new CiJ Fender Jazz, only to find that it's neck-heavy. The body's alder and the neck's maple.
When I play it standing up with a strap I've got to constantly fight against gravity pulling the neck downwards and rotating the bass, which means it's either slowing my fretting hand down as it's partly holding the neck up or making plucking the strings awkward as my right hand's forcing the body down.
Anyone have this problem with a bass...and any solutions? All I can think of is attaching a counterweight to the bridge end of the strap to weight that side down. I don't want to do any invasive surgery that'll destroy the vaule of the bass!
Cheers | 
08-29-2007, 04:54 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Memphis | | I had a problem like that with a bass once, the solution ... wheel weights, the little lead weights that they use when balancing car tires ... they come in pre-cut pieces with an adhesive backing, use just as many as you need, either under the pickguard or control box  ... Auto parts stores should have them.
Last edited by Kenny Allyn : 08-29-2007 at 05:44 AM.
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08-29-2007, 05:10 AM
| | | | Excellent workaround! Thanks for that!
Great Duck Dunn quote too, btw. | 
08-29-2007, 05:14 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Boca Raton, Florida | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny Allyn I had a problem like that with a bass once, the solution ... wheel weights, the little lead weights that they use when balancing car tires ... they come in pre-cut a pieces with an adhesive backing, use just as many as you need, either under the pickguard or control box  ... Auto parts stores should have them. | great tip
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08-29-2007, 06:25 AM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by cdog Hi,
I've just bought a new CiJ Fender Jazz, only to find that it's neck-heavy. The body's alder and the neck's maple.
When I play it standing up with a strap I've got to constantly fight against gravity pulling the neck downwards and rotating the bass, which means it's either slowing my fretting hand down as it's partly holding the neck up or making plucking the strings awkward as my right hand's forcing the body down.
Anyone have this problem with a bass...and any solutions? All I can think of is attaching a counterweight to the bridge end of the strap to weight that side down. I don't want to do any invasive surgery that'll destroy the vaule of the bass!
Cheers | That's been one of my main gripes with Fender style basses and the main reason I don't play mine live anymore unless I can sit.
I hate adding weight to an already heavy enough bass. I'd try ultralight tuners for a start and keep the stock ones for resale value so you can switch back if you sell. Ultralights may do the trick if there isn't too much neck dive. If not, add a little bit of weight. | 
08-29-2007, 06:37 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Memphis | | The ONLY problem I've ever had with a "Fender Style" bass was an old Peavey that had those really Heavy 80s Schaller tuners on it ... I did consider new tuners but at $100 a set the weights seemed like a better option.
Once that bass balanced it was actually more comfortable precisely because of the balance ie: you didn't notice any weight had been added.  ... But new tuners are one way to do it | 
08-29-2007, 07:15 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: coastal N.C. | | | The reason a bass is neck heavy is because the horn is too short in relation to the weight of the neck. The best horn length Would be very nearly even with the 12th fret.
With that in mind, if you can figure out how to extend the horn, you get good balance and add little weight.
In another thread on this same subject, someone posted pix of an after market horn extender on his bass and according to his report, it works perfectly.
Problem being that I've spent quite a bit of time sourcing one, without any success.
If my player bass was very much neck heavy, I believe that I could fabricate one pretty easily.
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08-29-2007, 07:21 AM
|  | Signed, Sealed, Delivered | | Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: NY & MA | | | Another solution... this is what I've done... is to use my strap the "old fashioned way". One end attaches to the butt end like it always does, and the other end attaches to the headstock just in front of the nut. I simply tie it on with a leather shoe lace, or there are any number of aftermarket clips available. Balance is perfect for me. | 
08-29-2007, 07:23 AM
|  | ... activating internal kill switch ... | | Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Pig's Eye, MN (aka st. paul) | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny Allyn I had a problem like that with a bass once, the solution ... wheel weights, the little lead weights that they use when balancing car tires ... they come in pre-cut pieces with an adhesive backing, use just as many as you need, either under the pickguard or control box  ... Auto parts stores should have them. | never thought of that, it'd be cheaper than new UL tuners. It'd make the whole bass heavier, but great cheap work around.
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08-29-2007, 07:48 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2006 Location: Whyalla, South Australia | | | I had that problem with a Fender P bass. I found that a wide leather strap with the underside not finished so that it remained course created enough friction over the shoulder to alleviate the droop.
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08-29-2007, 08:36 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Memphis | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Wal Pawlik I had that problem with a Fender P bass. I found that a wide leather strap with the underside not finished so that it remained course created enough friction over the shoulder to alleviate the droop. | I've done that too ...  ... With a wide 3" course bottom leather strap and a couple of weights your done. | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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