Best nut glue: Wood glue, superglue, or....?

bassist11 · #1 02-17-2011, 10:56 AM

Just like the title says..

New nut for my P-bass is ready to be glued in.

What should I use?

JLS · #2 02-17-2011, 11:15 AM

Doesn't matter. You're only going to use a miniscule amount, a couple of tiny drops.

Rickett Customs · #3 02-17-2011, 11:25 AM

Superglue, but just dot it in 2 or 3 places.......don't get too liberal with it....

walterw · #4 02-17-2011, 08:04 PM

you want the nut rigidly held in place, but still removable years later with no damage to the surrounding wood.

for me, that means a little superglue.

Lizooki · #5 02-18-2011, 06:30 AM

I build my fretboards so that i end up with a "sand to fit" nut that is a tap in fit. No glue needed. But I guess thats not entirely possible with a manufactured bass, so ....
I'll go against the grain and say a couple drops of wood glue.
It'll hold the nut fine (as long as it's real bone) but it pops right out when needed to. then you sand the remaining glue out.

Matt

**rhino333** · #6 02-18-2011, 06:43 AM

I took a class in refretting/set ups, etc. from Galloup Guitars. We used thin super glue (#10; "red") and then did a quick spray with "accelerator" to make it set up quickly.

You can get those at Stewmac.com but I usually go to my local hobby store to get them.

T-Bird · #7 02-19-2011, 03:12 AM

Hi.

I'm with lizooki on this, no-glue or wood glue.

CA is fine I guess if You are careful, but if not...

Regards
Sam

MNAirHead · #8 02-19-2011, 03:19 AM

I use hot glue.. when it comes time to pull it out, just scrape it off in a complete piece..

jtc_hunter · #9 02-19-2011, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MNAirHead

I use hot glue.. when it comes time to pull it out, just scrape it off in a complete piece..

good idea.

Billy Low · #10 02-19-2011, 08:15 AM

I use 1 small drop (about .5 cm dia.) of thinset superglue.

bassbenj · #11 02-19-2011, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lizooki

I build my fretboards so that i end up with a "sand to fit" nut that is a tap in fit. No glue needed. But I guess thats not entirely possible with a manufactured bass, so ....
I'll go against the grain and say a couple drops of wood glue.
It'll hold the nut fine (as long as it's real bone) but it pops right out when needed to. then you sand the remaining glue out.

I wouldn't say against the grain. Moo glue (Elmer's white wood glue) has been the "traditional" nut glue for as long as I can remember. Super glue is common now because it's so quick and easy, but as everybody warns, do you remember the old super glue ads where two 1" steel blocks glued together held up a CAR? THAT will be your nut if you use too much superglue!

walterw · #12 02-19-2011, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MNAirHead

I use hot glue.. when it comes time to pull it out, just scrape it off in a complete piece..

do you mean hot hide glue, or that clear silicone gunk you squirt out of that little plug-in gun?

because the glue-gun stuff has no place in guitar repair, except maybe for installing pickup covers!

(not that it will hurt anything, just that you'll have a rubbery, tone-robbing cushion under the nut. you want the nut glue to be rigid, even brittle, for maximum tone transfer.)

Billy Low · #13 02-20-2011, 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassbenj

I wouldn't say against the grain. Moo glue (Elmer's white wood glue) has been the "traditional" nut glue for as long as I can remember. Super glue is common now because it's so quick and easy, but as everybody warns, do you remember the old super glue ads where two 1" steel blocks glued together held up a CAR? THAT will be your nut if you use too much superglue!

With just a small dallop, CA (superglue) is not a problem at all. Just a small rap on the side of the nut usually breaks the bond. You will, however, need to file the remaining CA out of the nut slot before mounting the new nut.

4001 · #14 02-20-2011, 12:08 AM

TITEBOND

LilloEsquilo · #15 02-20-2011, 08:03 AM

Depends. If you aren't going to be the one to replace it next time, use superglue. If you are, then consider how much work you want to go through. In the factory they seem to glue the hell out of those things, it's a real challenge to get the nut loose. Then again I've had one bass where I went to change the strings and the nut dropped right out there was no glue on it, so that got missed.

I wouldn't use superglue on one that I was going to have to work on in the future.

walterw · #16 02-20-2011, 12:30 PM

i use superglue all the time on parts that have to be removed later.

it's not some magic indestructible bond; in fact, it's often easier to get apart than wood glue.

it's epoxy that's the nightmare to try and remove later.

JLS · #17 02-20-2011, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LilloEsquilo

Depends. If you aren't going to be the one to replace it next time, use superglue. If you are, then consider how much work you want to go through. In the factory they seem to glue the hell out of those things, it's a real challenge to get the nut loose. Then again I've had one bass where I went to change the strings and the nut dropped right out there was no glue on it, so that got missed.

I wouldn't use superglue on one that I was going to have to work on in the future.

Superglue is exactly the correct adhesive, for this sort of work. It will hold the nut on forever, but let go with a sharp whack.

Nuts only need to be glued, to keep them from falling out/off, when the instrument is unstrung.

JLS · #18 02-20-2011, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by walterw

i use superglue all the time on parts that have to be removed later.

it's not some magic indestructible bond; in fact, it's often easier to get apart than wood glue.

it's epoxy that's the nightmare to try and remove later.

Another nightmare for you: The headstock break, that someone's tried to repair with hot glue, from a glue gun.

mntngrown · #19 04-22-2011, 10:35 PM

Too much came out and that stuff sets up fast

Nut is off center and sharp whack and hot setting on hair dryer not helping. Any chemical pre release like acetone before a whack maybe? Probably better to ice it than heat it now that I think about it.

Jazzdogg · #20 04-22-2011, 11:08 PM

I use hide glue because it works well, reverses easily with moist heat - without damaging the materials, creates an inelastic bond, and I always have some around the shop; I don't imagine too many folks to work with hide glue these days, but if you happen to have it on hand, it works great.

For these kinds of tasks I use pre-mixed hide glue made by Pat Edwards (Antique Refinishers, Inc. and American School of French Marquetry):

Old Brown Glue - Articles