|  | 
08-15-2011, 08:55 AM
| | | | Best strap button location for sharp horn
Sign in to disble this ad
Well, I didn't think this through all the way when I designed this custom bass. Roughly based on an Aria body, my horn is pretty sharp. Problem is I need to attach my strap buttons now and putting it on the end of the horn is out of the question. My options are on the back center neck like an SG, maybe the back side of the horn, or even into the neck just above the body. I already expect this to be pretty neck heavy too. I've come too far to punch a bunch of holes in it until I'm happy, so I turn to you, my experienced crowd. Allow me to learn from your mistakes and accomplishments....and thank you in advance!
Here's a link to see the body: http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/u...suite/body.jpg | 
08-15-2011, 11:40 AM
| | Registered User Bass Technician, Club Bass - Toronto | | Join Date: May 2004 Location: Toronto Canada | | | On the back of the horn, about even with the twelfth fret. It's actually stronger coming in from the back than it would be coming into the end of the horn as is typical.
__________________
Instrument Technician, Toronto
| 
08-15-2011, 11:58 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Fareham, England | | | How thick is the upper horn (width and height or diameter)?
__________________ British Bassist#111 5 String#334 BTB#83 I Built a Bass From Rough Lumber#24 Ibanez#606 Quote: |
Originally Posted by father of fires You make it look so easy. Like Ikea instructions. | | 
08-15-2011, 12:23 PM
| | | | The body (including the horn) is about 1 3/4" thick. | 
08-15-2011, 01:23 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Oracle, Arizona | | | It is a unique design and I clearly see why you would want to take some time in thinking it through. If it were me I would get some advice from a luitherer. The type of wood and it's balance would be factors that might be pivotal in your decision.
There may be a method to make up a "temporary" strap and see what felt best. The angle of the wood screw would also be a very important issue & with a unique body like that I would seek out advice from someone who had deal w/ that issue previously in your area.
An angle (insertion) approach would allow more wood to be gripped by the screw; however it seems likely that you'd want to be able to experiment before making a final judgment. | 
08-15-2011, 03:36 PM
| | | Looking at the Aria site, some of their strap button mountings look not a lot different than yours might - look fragile but I guess they do work: The Aria SB-CB Electric Bass
I'm sure that with the right install technique your horn could easily manage it. It's not in effect a lot of weight in normal playing conditions.
__________________
P&W514, Ibby431
Last edited by conqr : 08-15-2011 at 03:40 PM.
| 
08-15-2011, 03:45 PM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Turnaround On the back of the horn, about even with the twelfth fret. It's actually stronger coming in from the back than it would be coming into the end of the horn as is typical. | This, BC Rich uses back of horn for warlocks etc and its perfect location and as Turnaround said, stronger location.
__________________
life for its own carnal pleasure. Bass: Jackson JS3. Guitars: BC Rich IT Warlock & BC Rich masterpeice Mockingbird shortscale. Zoom club#2. BC Rich club#26.
| 
08-15-2011, 03:45 PM
| | | | Thanks for the link, I considered that placement but it would be an awfully short screw. I could move the button back a bit to allow more "meat" to be grabbed, but at a certain point the strap may want to come off, plus I don't know about the balance. I've seen a suggestion of taping my strap on at different points to get a feel for the balance.
Thank you all for your opinions!!!! | 
08-15-2011, 04:01 PM
| | | | Can't see it too well in the pic but may I ask why the end of the horn is a no go? I've also seen a lot of pointy horn basses with straplocks screwed in.
Beautiful design btw.
__________________
P&W514, Ibby431
| 
08-16-2011, 07:46 PM
| | | | Thanks for the kudos CONQR. The horn really comes to an edge much like a wedge versus being rounded over. Sure, I could screw in the button but almost no base of the button would make contact. The edge mentioned is probably no more wider than the screw itself. I considered fabricating a brass cap for the edge of the horn that would mold up to the button....but I'm not well rehearsed in metal work....plus it might look too bulky. Thus far, the back of the horn is looking like a good contender! | 
08-16-2011, 08:29 PM
|  | <---Shinola Shite--^ | | Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Manitoba, Canada | | | Ok, from the back of the horn. Best location for balance. Screw length is no issue. 1" penetration is plenty, so 1 1/4 screw is fine. Ask any woodworker. The most important thing is drilling the hole the correct size; the same diameter as the screw shaft. Put screw in, remove, add a dab of gorilla glue and it'll stay for decades.
There is nothing to be concerned about with the weight breaking the horn. Wood is decievingly strong. Unless you have a gorilla dangling from your cool control cutout.
Nice work, its to be proud of.
__________________
'74ish Ampeg V4B, 115/210. * '75 Gibson G3. *Epi Tbird. *Squier: VM Jazz, CV 50's P. *Squier VM Jazz Assoc. *MBC 641. Squier owners club
| | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
Posting Rules
| You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is On | | | |