|  | 
12-17-2008, 08:57 PM
| | | | Best (two part) epoxy for a fingerboard
Sign in to disble this ad
I'm am looking for a good spray-able two part epoxy. Any ideas?
(yes I did search) |
12-18-2008, 08:56 AM
| | Registered User
I setup & repair guitars & basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Kensington, Ca | | | Sprayable epoxy? |
12-18-2008, 09:28 AM
| | | | I looking for someone that has used this method and product type for this purpose. |
12-18-2008, 12:18 PM
| | Registered User
I setup & repair guitars & basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Kensington, Ca | | | I'd go this way:
|
12-18-2008, 12:20 PM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by JLS  | Have you used this on your fretboard? |
12-18-2008, 12:31 PM
|  | bassist for staind | | | | | i havent heard of anyone using it.. i worry the epoxy will be too thick, and add its own charchter to the sound. when water based wood glue dries it shrinks, epoxy does not. even if u clamp it to squeeze it out, i would still wonder how much is in there. i used to work in autobody, one thing i know about epoxy is that the shorter the cure, the weaker the bond. 2 hr epoxy is way stronger than 5 min epoxy. i did not believe it and cured 2 dog turd shaped blobs of epoxy on saran wrap. i could snap the 5 min epoxy easy with my hands, but the 2 hour epoxy was hard to break. . may i be nosey and ask why you wish to not use the traditional glue? johnny a. staind |
12-18-2008, 12:34 PM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by staindbass i havent heard of anyone using it.. i worry the epoxy will be too thick, and add its own charchter to the sound. when water based wood glue dries it shrinks, epoxy does not. even if u clamp it to squeeze it out, i would still wonder how much is in there. i used to work in autobody, one thing i know about epoxy is that the shorter the cure, the weaker the bond. 2 hr epoxy is way stronger than 5 min epoxy. i did not believe it and cured 2 dog turd shaped blobs of epoxy on saran wrap. i could snap the 5 min epoxy easy with my hands, but the 2 hour epoxy was hard to break. . may i be nosey and ask why you wish to not use the traditional glue? johnny a. staind | That's why I was looking for spray so I can control the thickness. I used to build RC planes and can attest to the slower drying the better. At lease with that type of epoxies. |
12-18-2008, 02:06 PM
|  | http://greenboy.us/forum/
designer, fEARful enclosures | | Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: remote mountain cabin Montana | | I dunno about sprays, but I had a local luthier use Rot Doctor Layup & Laminating Epoxy Resin. Six coats lightly applied making sure bubbles are brushed or poked out, and cure for a day or two per coat, and sand each time with leveling block. Looks like something HG Thor might use, if you've ever seen their pictures - very clear and reflective and brings out the richness of the fingerboard.
Tonally it's different - all coatings are. Glassy, I guess one might say ; } |
12-18-2008, 06:34 PM
| | Registered User
I setup & repair guitars & basses | | Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Kensington, Ca | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabriel51 Have you used this on your fretboard? | No, but I recall that Jaco P. used a marine epoxy on fretless fingerboards. |
12-18-2008, 06:44 PM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by JLS No, but I recall that Jaco P. used a marine epoxy on fretless fingerboards. | If I remember right he poured it on? Later it had to be removed and redone.
I would like to keep it thin and to be honest, I may do nothing because there is very little wear on the ebony, however the front dots (position markers) are slightly elevated (some rattle in the B and C sharp area) so I need to freshen it up. Thin super glue looks like a choice also? |
12-18-2008, 07:09 PM
| | http://greenboy.us/forum/
designer, fEARful enclosures | | Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: remote mountain cabin Montana | | | Super glue sucks for the long term. It's not especially good with the moisture coming from hands ferinstance.
Be aware with ebony that you really need to use something like denatured alchohol get the oils out of the wood closer to the surface or you won't have decent epoxy adhesion - peels galore. |
12-18-2008, 07:15 PM
|  | quid verum atque decens
Builder: Rickett Customs | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Southern Maryland | | If i'm correct, marine epoxy tends to "yellow" up.
This fingerboard I had epoxied, by another TB'er, was System 3:  |
12-18-2008, 07:33 PM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Alembicplyr If i'm correct, marine epoxy tends to "yellow" up.
This fingerboard I had epoxied, by another TB'er, was System 3: | That looks excellent! I see an opportunity for so very low action on that fretboard. Those lefty's give me vertigo!  |
12-18-2008, 08:01 PM
| | Registered User
Owner; Knuckle Guitar Works & Circle K Strings | | Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Seattle | | | System 3 has a penetrating epoxy as well - it's called Rot Fix - and I use it to seal bodies and necks when I know the user will be none-too-kind to their bass.
I WOULD NOT spray this. It will ruin any sprayer it is put through. The method greenboy suggests is best with this stuff. Prep your board with denatured and then aliphatic alcohols. Aliphatic alcohol is what is used to thin epoxies, so on the off chance there is residual alcohol left in the ebony it will not hinder adhesion. If so inclined the Rot Fix can be chased with a T88 System 3 epoxy as it will bond wonderfully to the Rot Fix and will be harder.
__________________
I am; KnuckleGuitarWorks.com & CircleKstrings.com
| | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | | 
Posting Rules
| You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On | | | |
