Best way to lower action slightly on Ibanez SR500.

[skiltrip]

I just bought an SR500 yesterday. After bringing it home and letting it settle in, the action rose a little bit higher than it was in the store. My house sits around 55-60% humidity, so maybe the store was a little dryer? In any case, I looked at the neck relief, and it seems to be pretty flat, so I'm definitely not going to mess with the neck. Would the best way to bring the action down a hair is just adjust each saddle as needed? Also, the intonation on the bass is absolutely perfect, and I don't want to mess with that. Will raising or lowering the saddles slightly do anything to the intonation?

Also question, specifically on the bridge of the SR500, there is one Allen Screw on top, but there is also an Allen Screw on the "front" of each saddle (facing the headstock). What is this screw for?

[JLS]

"Would the best way to bring the action down a hair is just adjust each saddle as needed? Also, the intonation on the bass is absolutely perfect, and I don't want to mess with that. Will raising or lowering the saddles slightly do anything to the intonation?"

Yes. No.

[bobknowsbass]

I remember what my uncle told me when I began setting up basses. "Only a quarter turn each saddle, then see where you're at." Adjust slightly but evenly until you get to where you want. Or, just listen to Carl from Lakland.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIzV9462xeE

[skiltrip]

Originally Posted by JLS

"Would the best way to bring the action down a hair is just adjust each saddle as needed? Also, the intonation on the bass is absolutely perfect, and I don't want to mess with that. Will raising or lowering the saddles slightly do anything to the intonation?"

Yes. No.

Thanks.

[ByF]

I'm going to disagree that adjusting the saddles is the "best way."

The action was low in the store, and it's high now. You're in a different environment. That means that the neck relief changed. Moving into a new environment won't change the bridge saddles, but it will cause the neck to bow.

You say that the relief "looks pretty flat," but that's not a very good measure of neck relief. I would suggest you actually measure the relief, and adjust the truss rod.

Lowering the saddles will lower the action, but you should get the relief right first.

Ed

[tobie]

+1 to what Ed said. You'll probably find that some of the strings are already at their lowest saddle-setting anyway. I'd just tighten the truss rod a little bit (1/4") and check it again.

Since no-one answered your Allen Screw on the "front" of each saddle question: these are to set intonation further down the neck. I'm sure you'll find more about it on this forum, but here is an excellent link on setting up a bass: http://www.tunemybass.com/bass_setup/.

[Solarmist]

Ibanez basses new come with almost zero relief, and very low action. The intonation won't change by lowering/raising the saddles a little. My SR400QM has the same B20 bridge that's easily adjustable with a 1.5mm hex wrench. I use a Stew-Mac string action gauge for setting action height accurately.

[skiltrip]

Originally Posted by ByF

I'm going to disagree that adjusting the saddles is the "best way."

The action was low in the store, and it's high now. You're in a different environment. That means that the neck relief changed. Moving into a new environment won't change the bridge saddles, but it will cause the neck to bow.

You say that the relief "looks pretty flat," but that's not a very good measure of neck relief. I would suggest you actually measure the relief, and adjust the truss rod.

Lowering the saddles will lower the action, but you should get the relief right first.

Ed

Thanks Ed. This makes perfect sense, thanks.

What I don't know though is, how to you properly check to see if your relief is ideal? What's the process?

[electracoyote]

Originally Posted by skiltrip

Thanks Ed. This makes perfect sense, thanks.

What I don't know though is, how to you properly check to see if your relief is ideal? What's the process?

One method is to use one of the strings (I use the A) as a straight edge. Fret or capo the first fret and then fret high up the string, 17th or 19th fret. With the string as a straight edge, carefully observe how far the midpoint of the string is from the top of the frets. You can gently tap on the string midpoint to see how far it moves. This distance is your relief. I have heard a variety of estimates, anything from zero to the thickness of a credit card, and some people use feeler gauges for accurate measurement. Since proper relief seems to vary widely from bass to bass, I start with about a credit card thickness and go from there. I take relief out until it presents a fret buzz issue, then I put a little back.

Remember to only adjust your truss rod about a quarter turn at a time and give the neck some time to fully adjust to the change before adjusting again.

I just brought a bass up from the relatively cooler, more humid basement, and the neck had lost all relief. It's normal for necks to go through a state of flux once in awhile.

[skiltrip]

Originally Posted by electracoyote

One method is to use one of the strings (I use the A) as a straight edge. Fret or capo the first fret and then fret high up the string, 17th or 19th fret. With the string as a straight edge, carefully observe how far the midpoint of the string is from the top of the frets. You can gently tap on the string midpoint to see how far it moves. This distance is your relief. I have heard a variety of estimates, anything from zero to the thickness of a credit card, and some people use feeler gauges for accurate measurement. Since proper relief seems to vary widely from bass to bass, I start with about a credit card thickness and go from there. I take relief out until it presents a fret buzz issue, then I put a little back.

Remember to only adjust your truss rod about a quarter turn at a time and give the neck some time to fully adjust to the change before adjusting again.

I just brought a bass up from the relatively cooler, more humid basement, and the neck had lost all relief. It's normal for necks to go through a state of flux once in awhile.

Thanks for that explanation. If I get a chance I'll definitely try that tonight. Does anyone happen to know what size/type truss rod wrench is used on the Ibanez Soundgear basses? I have full sets of Allen wrenches, so hopefully it's the Allen type.

[electracoyote]

Originally Posted by skiltrip

Thanks for that explanation. If I get a chance I'll definitely try that tonight. Does anyone happen to know what size/type truss rod wrench is used on the Ibanez Soundgear basses? I have full sets of Allen wrenches, so hopefully it's the Allen type.

I'm guessing a hex (Allen) wrench. Shine a light down the hole and take a look. From there it's a little trial and error to find the size that is a snug fit.

[ByF]

I believe that my SR505 uses a 4 mm Allen wrench.

If you don't have feeler gages, I would suggest two business cards stack together as a gage. Card stock is about .008" thick, so two would be .016". That would be about right for me. Credit cards are about .030"

Don't forget to loosen the strings when you adjust the truss rod.

Ed

[skiltrip]

Originally Posted by ByF

I believe that my SR505 uses a 4 mm Allen wrench.

If you don't have feeler gages, I would suggest two business cards stack together as a gage. Card stock is about .008" thick, so two would be .016". That would be about right for me. Credit cards are about .030"

Don't forget to loosen the strings when you adjust the truss rod.

Ed

Thanks for that info Ed. The Business card trick is a good one. Lord knows I have tons of them that are about to get chucked (company takeover so i'll have to get all new ones made anyway).

And in regards to the truss rod, as long as it's an Allen type, I'm good. I was afraid it might be one of the nut/bolt type. I think I have that on my old Ibanez 540SLTD (from 1990).