Best way to straighten out my neck?

T-Forty · #1 05-12-2009, 08:41 AM

So, I bought a heavily used/abused 2005 Fender American Vintage 62 Precision.

When I got it there were about 7 or 8 notes high on the fretboard that were extremely buzzy and the action was super high. From the side you could see the neck bending forward.

Took it in for a set up and the tech got it so that the action is much more acceptable but there are still 3 or 4 very buzzy notes.

He said he was able to tighten the truss rod about 1 full turn, but it wasn't enough to get the neck to come back. I said I would try it out because I rarely play way way up high on the fretboard and the action was similar to my T-Forty, which I would say is between medium and high.

The options for fixing it if I bring it back to him are for him to loosen and tighten up the truss rod repeatedly in an effort to get the neck moving a bit, or he said he could do a heat treatment to straighten it out and then set it up again.

Thankfully whatever he does the set up is going to be free since I already paid for one.

So, any thoughts on which option I should exercise or if anyone has other suggestions that would be awesome.

And don't recommend getting a new neck please. I don't have the $325 they cost on ebay (yes, I'd insist on getting a fender neck)

unclejane · #2 05-12-2009, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-Forty

So, I bought a heavily used/abused 2005 Fender American Vintage 62 Precision.

When I got it there were about 7 or 8 notes high on the fretboard that were extremely buzzy and the action was super high. From the side you could see the neck bending forward.

Took it in for a set up and the tech got it so that the action is much more acceptable but there are still 3 or 4 very buzzy notes.

He said he was able to tighten the truss rod about 1 full turn, but it wasn't enough to get the neck to come back. I said I would try it out because I rarely play way way up high on the fretboard and the action was similar to my T-Forty, which I would say is between medium and high.

The options for fixing it if I bring it back to him are for him to loosen and tighten up the truss rod repeatedly in an effort to get the neck moving a bit, or he said he could do a heat treatment to straighten it out and then set it up again.

Thankfully whatever he does the set up is going to be free since I already paid for one.

So, any thoughts on which option I should exercise or if anyone has other suggestions that would be awesome.

And don't recommend getting a new neck please. I don't have the $325 they cost on ebay (yes, I'd insist on getting a fender neck)

Go to lighter guage/lower tension strings.

If you're getting buzz up on the heel, you may be screwed. There you'll either have to adjust the tilt of the neck upward, which will raise the action further down on the neck (and if the truss rod is already maxed out....). Getting the frets dressed is another option. Course all that starts running into some money.

I'd start with lighter strings....

LS

T-Forty · #3 05-12-2009, 09:43 AM

I'm using Dean Markley Blue Steel NPS (nickel plated steel) lights...45-100...

Would shimming the neck help? In my head a shim that is sort of wedge shaped seems like it could work.

JLS · #4 05-12-2009, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-Forty

I'm using Dean Markley Blue Steel NPS (nickel plated steel) lights...45-100...

Would shimming the neck help? In my head a shim that is sort of wedge shaped seems like it could work.

No. Your neck has kinked right around the 15th fret; this is called "ski jump", or, "fenderitis", and can't be fixed by trussrod adjustments. If you're lucky, there's enough fret height that they can be taken down in that area. It sounds like your tech is less than knowledgable, frankly.

T-Forty · #5 05-12-2009, 10:23 AM

Ah I see.

Taking down the frets is something I will consider sometime in the future, but for now I'm fine with the action and don't play that high up.

Thankfully the D and G play fine. The problems are with the A mostly.

JLS · #6 05-12-2009, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-Forty

Ah I see.

Taking down the frets is something I will consider sometime in the future, but for now I'm fine with the action and don't play that high up.

Thankfully the D and G play fine. The problems are with the A mostly.

Raise that saddle, take two aspirin, and call me in the morning.

T-Forty · #7 05-13-2009, 09:56 AM

Has anyone here dealt with Fender through one of their dealers while trying to obtain a replacement neck?

JLS - is this "ski jump" a materials defect or workmanship defect?

joeyl · #8 05-13-2009, 10:21 AM

I have never dealt with the Fender customer service but I know a couple of people who were trying to get a replacement neck for their basses, they ended up buying a Warmoth or USACG replacement neck, I think Fender wanted around 400-500 dollars and a few months wait.

T-Forty · #9 05-13-2009, 11:15 AM

Yeah I see there are some on ebay that are made/crafted in Japan that go for $350-$400.

I'd prefer to get a Fender one. I will admit to wanting the logo and I also like yellowish finish on the neck.

I've contacted a luthier in Michigan and depending on the cost I may take it to him for a fretboard leveling in July.

BillyRay · #10 05-13-2009, 11:27 AM

^^^^ You can get a tinted neck from Warmoth and decals aren't that hard to find (hint: go on the ReRanch forum). Be aware that Warmoth necks are, in general, heavier than their Fender counterparts due to the stiffening rods.

Techs can sometimes straighten a neck by heating it up and clamping it straight. This doesn't work 100% of the time but it's a good thing to try if you want to salvage the original neck.

Necks sometimes warp, it's life. Sometimes it's because of user error (leaving the bass in high humidity situations with no strings on but the trussrod cranked, for example), sometimes it's because of the wood. I had a Godin do this on me. It had a bad "ski jump" from the 13th or so fret. In retrospect, I should've just ripped the problematic frets out instead of dumping it for 200$. That thing sounded sweet.

9mmMike · #11 05-13-2009, 11:33 AM

I had a slight buzz from my '57 RI's D & G near the heel. About 1/2 turn on the saddle screws fixed it. My action is pretty low on that bass though.
If your neck is visibly bent, I am not sure what you can do but replace it. Maybe fret-leveling? Has your tech ever done this "heat treatment to straighten it out" thing? That sure sounds promising.
I have not heard of "fenderitis" before. I have a variety of Fender basses now and none of them seem to suffer from this.

T-Forty · #12 05-13-2009, 11:38 AM

Thanks for the tips, Billy.

Regarding taking off the frets and leveling it myself...is that a terrible idea?

T-Forty · #13 05-13-2009, 11:46 AM

My tech has heated necks to straighten them before, but he didn't notice this "ski jump", so I think that would change things.

It was set up professional, and despite what was said on this thread he does know what he is doing. Adjusting the saddles won't do anything and will just make the action suck on the bulk of the frets.

It seems like my options at this point at a new neck or to have the ski jump leveled out. Filing the frets down wouldn't probably work given that they're on the small side.

JLS · #14 05-13-2009, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-Forty

My tech has heated necks to straighten them before, but he didn't notice this "ski jump", so I think that would change things.

It was set up professional, and despite what was said on this thread he does know what he is doing. Adjusting the saddles won't do anything and will just make the action suck on the bulk of the frets.

It seems like my options at this point at a new neck or to have the ski jump leveled out. Filing the frets down wouldn't probably work given that they're on the small side.

If this were my neck, I'd pull all the frets and remove the nut, sand the fingerboard to true w/some fallaway after the 15th fret, and refret. If I were doing it for a customer, at least $250.

Also--I've never seen a Warmoth neck, that didn't need fret leveling. Just had to that, and I mean a lot, on a strat neck w/the fine adjuster in the heel.

JLS · #15 05-13-2009, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-Forty

Has anyone here dealt with Fender through one of their dealers while trying to obtain a replacement neck?

JLS - is this "ski jump" a materials defect or workmanship defect?

No, it's a, "just happens". Like an acoustic the needs a neck reset; the majority of them weren't left in a car trunk, they just moved, over time.

9mmMike · #16 06-10-2009, 01:24 PM

Any news on this issue?

ErebusBass · #17 06-10-2009, 01:36 PM

Get some of the air out of your head.

Oh were you talking about one of your basses?

Patrick Nelson · #18 06-11-2009, 05:46 PM

It is quite common for the last couple of frets to be a bit to high. If there is enough fret height, the frets can be dressed level. He should have taken the truss rod nut out and lubricated it. This can help when a truss rod does not seem to work as well as it should. Also, leveling the frets with a little bit of bow in the neck can get some adjustability out of the truss rod. Find a good luthier, and take it in for a proper setup (including fret leveling and recrowning.) That should cost somewhere between $100-150.

Hoover · #19 06-11-2009, 07:28 PM

I've had two different bass necks successfully fixed via the heat straightening method. fwiw

9mmMike · #20 07-06-2009, 05:13 PM

Wondering if this was ever fixed...........