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05-15-2008, 09:43 PM
| | | | best way to take a finish off?
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so i'm refinishing a pbass style bass (the brand is stage). im just wondering what the best way of doing this is? what grade sand paper? sorry if this is a lame question... thanks for your input in advance though.  | 
05-15-2008, 10:06 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: NY, NY | | | Wrong forum, try luthier
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Originally Posted by THand Really, what I keep thinking is:
put "getting drunk with GE" on bucket list:D | Taking parts donations for another Drunk Rock bass. FS/FT Montreux Little Buffer Ben Lindsey Jazz | 
05-15-2008, 10:09 PM
| | | | whoops my bad... sorry guys. im sure you hate noobs doing that. | 
05-15-2008, 10:11 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Madison Wi | | | i would go with a heat gun and scraper
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05-15-2008, 10:23 PM
| | | | i would double check this, but if the finish isn't bad, you can go over it. might not be the best route though.
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Originally Posted by mongo2 You know how they say someone got hit hard with the ugly stick...well, there it is. | | 
05-16-2008, 12:08 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: NY, NY | | Sorry if I came off wrong, but you will get more help in the lutheir forum. 
__________________ Quote:
Originally Posted by THand Really, what I keep thinking is:
put "getting drunk with GE" on bucket list:D | Taking parts donations for another Drunk Rock bass. FS/FT Montreux Little Buffer Ben Lindsey Jazz | 
05-16-2008, 12:41 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Long Island, NY | | I used paint thinner / laquor thinner and a bunch of nights getting woozy in my basement followed by a lot of sanding once most was off... then I did a spray can bass coat of the color I wanted w/ a rattle can. I let the car painters handle the rest.
I can't argue with the results. Plus my bass' paint job is now as durable as a car and will probably outlast me. lol
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Last edited by Slax : 05-16-2008 at 12:43 AM.
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05-16-2008, 12:43 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Long Island, NY | | Quote:
Originally Posted by pingone i would double check this, but if the finish isn't bad, you can go over it. might not be the best route though. | Personally I wouldn't do it. If I learned anything from paint.. it's painting over stuff that's slick won't stick as well... but I'm probably also wrong. 
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05-16-2008, 05:20 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: maryland | | | unless you want a natural finish, you should be able to paint over it. just sand it enough to give the new paint something to stick to. 220 or 300 grit should do it. sand it until the finish is no longer glossy and more like a satin finish. gotta be easier and quicker than trying to get it down to bare wood. | 
05-16-2008, 12:59 PM
| | Greyhounds make good sound engineers - Big Ears! | | Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Philadelphia, PA | | | I know I'm in the wrong forum, but since enough people are chiming in here I thought I would ask, and I only got one response from the LF when I posted, which I'm not sure about.
I need to do the same thing as the OP, 'cept I want to take the very glossy clear-coat off the back of my basses maple neck. I hate the feel, and I want to go satin or maybe even no finish. Best way?
Thanks ~ | 
05-16-2008, 01:11 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Fort Collins, Colorado | | | As far as the neck - just go over it with a very mild 3-M abrasive pad and you'll create a satin feel. Go easy in doing this - you can always rub it a few more times.
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Last edited by Pilgrim : 05-19-2008 at 09:08 AM.
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05-16-2008, 01:11 PM
|  | mix-tape legend builder: Baddy 1 Shoe Pedals | | Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Durham, NC | | Quote:
Originally Posted by aquateen unless you want a natural finish, you should be able to paint over it. just sand it enough to give the new paint something to stick to. 220 or 300 grit should do it. sand it until the finish is no longer glossy and more like a satin finish. gotta be easier and quicker than trying to get it down to bare wood. | +1 I just did this with a guitar refinish ant it worked fine. Make sure you prime it after sanding and you should be just fine. It's hard to get the whole way down to bare wood especially if it's a hard poly finish.
Also, use duplicolor car paint. works like a dream
As far as the last post about the neck I'd just use lacquer remover applied with a cloth. | 
05-16-2008, 01:26 PM
| | Greyhounds make good sound engineers - Big Ears! | | Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Philadelphia, PA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmy rocket +1 I just did this with a guitar refinish ant it worked fine. Make sure you prime it after sanding and you should be just fine. It's hard to get the whole way down to bare wood especially if it's a hard poly finish.
Also, use duplicolor car paint. works like a dream
As far as the last post about the neck I'd just use lacquer remover applied with a cloth. | In searching this forum, some suggest sanding the neck with grades of sandpaper up to 1000 grit, and then 0000 steel wool - or should I use a laquer (or some type of) thinner? What if I'm dealing with a poly finish and not laquer? Thanks. | 
05-17-2008, 07:05 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: NY, NY | | | If its one of those gloss Fender necks, use fine sandpaper, then superfine to smooth everything out.
Don't use steel wool! For some reason, in my experience, it buffs the finish to a shine again and makes it cloudy.
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Originally Posted by THand Really, what I keep thinking is:
put "getting drunk with GE" on bucket list:D | Taking parts donations for another Drunk Rock bass. FS/FT Montreux Little Buffer Ben Lindsey Jazz | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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