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  #1  
Old 01-21-2007, 10:00 AM
stevetx19's Avatar
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big problem...

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ok,

so i just changed the nut on my jazz bass. ive never done any repair work like that, i just follewed as many tutorials online as i could. i have it all strung up, but when i finger the first fret, the string touches the second and third frets; only buzz is heard. the further up the fret board i go, the less of a problem this is, eventually fixing itself at the 4th or 5th fret.

adjusting the string height doesn't seem to fix the problem until the action is ridiculously high.

anyone know what is going on?

thanks
stephen
  #2  
Old 01-21-2007, 10:20 AM
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It sounds to me like your nut is too low.
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  #3  
Old 01-21-2007, 11:23 AM
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really?

im not sure, but it feels like just the opposite. To me it looked like the strings were a little high on the nut.

is there any way to make sure?
  #4  
Old 01-21-2007, 11:27 AM
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you might need to shim the neck
  #5  
Old 01-21-2007, 12:41 PM
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I may be missing something, but I'm not sure why the nut would be a problem. Once the string is fretted, the nut height doesn't matter, right? At any rate, to check the neight of your nut, fret the string at the third fret and make sure there's just a little bit of space between the string and the first and second frets.

I'm guessing your problem is with your neck. It might be bowed.
  #6  
Old 01-21-2007, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDirtyMoocher View Post
you might need to shim the neck
Shimming the neck lowers the action. If anything, his action is too low, so that wouldn't help here.

Unless you meant putting the shim towards the front, to raise the action. But it sounds like he can get the action high enough without shimming to get rid of the buzz.
  #7  
Old 01-21-2007, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevetx19 View Post
i have it all strung up, but when i finger the first fret, the string touches the second and third frets; only buzz is heard. the further up the fret board i go, the less of a problem this is, eventually fixing itself at the 4th or 5th fret.

adjusting the string height doesn't seem to fix the problem until the action is ridiculously high.

anyone know what is going on?

thanks
stephen
Buzzing at the first few frets and not further up the board is a classic indication that the relief is not set correctly. This is not a guarantee that the problem is relief, but it is a likely cause of the problem. The problem is definitely not with the nut.

Check the sticky at the head of this section and adjust the truss rod to allow the proper amount of relief. You may then have to adjust the string height at the saddles.
  #8  
Old 01-21-2007, 03:27 PM
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well, i should have mentioned this before, but the original nut broke, so when i replaced it i thought it would be a good time to switch it to a tenor bass. the difference in tension most likely did some damage to the neck.

i have been trying to adjust the trussrod as carefully as i can. the first attempt wacked the tuning, and when i retuned, all of the strings were really tight. my G snapped...
since then the tension seems alot more normal so i guess it just needed some time to adjust.

thanks for your help,
stephen
  #9  
Old 01-21-2007, 04:10 PM
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ahhhh! the real and complete story finally come out! based on what I've read here so far, my advice is to spend the $45 and take your bass to a qualified tech for a set-up before you end up damaging your neck (or worse - breaking the trussrod)

all the best,

R
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  #10  
Old 01-22-2007, 07:27 AM
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I stand corrected - I missed the "fretted at first fret" part, and was thinking open strings. My bad.
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  #11  
Old 01-22-2007, 11:04 AM
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well,

i really should take it to a tech...problem solved.

my goal is to learn how to fix these things myself, but i am rather new at it. This is a rather inexpensive bass so i'm not too concerned about it. i don't want the truss rod to break, but if it does i wont be devastated. Ive been following guides online, and it seems to be getting better.

to techs usually mind showing you what the problem is and helping you learn how to fix it, or do they just like to take your money and keep you coming back?

peace,
s
  #12  
Old 01-28-2007, 06:46 PM
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Hmm, well, so if you made it a tenor bass, first you need to create an anti-oxymoron stabilizing field around your work area. Then, since lighter strings=less tension, like the guy said, loosen the strings, loosen the truss rod a weeny bit, retune, see if that helps, if not, repeat the process a couple more times. But oh! wait ~ I'll bet the problem is the new nut ~ was it already slotted? Then it was slotted for a fat E string, and the A string you stuck in there is riding too low. Find some way to raise the notch of the E string slot if you're dead serious about this tenor bass thing. I've heard that double bass people can cheat with a tiny bit of super glue in the nut slot if they make the slot too deep. Haven't tried myself. Good luck!
And yeah, beware of guitar techs in music shops! Do it yourself, go slow, be careful, you'll be fine. If its a fine instrument you don't want to work on, beware the music shop guitar techs doubly so and find a real live luthier if its that serious a situation.
  #13  
Old 01-28-2007, 11:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevetx19 View Post
well,

i really should take it to a tech...problem solved.

my goal is to learn how to fix these things myself, but i am rather new at it. This is a rather inexpensive bass so i'm not too concerned about it. i don't want the truss rod to break, but if it does i wont be devastated. Ive been following guides online, and it seems to be getting better.

to techs usually mind showing you what the problem is and helping you learn how to fix it, or do they just like to take your money and keep you coming back?

peace,
s
I don't know about techs in your area, but if you were close to me I'd simply charge you my hourly rate and

1) do a complete set-up with you present
2) detail the steps and techniques you need to know and practice
3) answer any other set-up questions you may have

we both end up winners in this deal, and you leave with a bass properly set-up and ready for you to undo and redo the set-up on knowing that it was capable of being completely dialed-in. in all it should take 60 - 90 minutes to cover everything in detail barring any major repairs

it never hurts to ask is there's someone local willing to do the same

all the best,

R
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