Bridge positioning

Kadin · #1 12-26-2010, 01:30 PM

I just got a bridge (and bridge cover) for Christmas, and it's actually a Fender "vintage" replacement bridge.

I'm customizing an Ibanez GSR200-FM, and I've finally been able to pry the bridge off (why did they feel the need to glue it on? It tore off a huge chunk of gloss).

I tried lining up the new bridge, and obviously it doesn't match. I expected this.

Instead of drilling next to the current holes (because I'm pretty sure this would reduce the integrity of the newer holes), I'm thinking of just drilling new ones higher up. Ya know, closer to the bridge pickup.

Would this mess with the intonation to the point where I'd need to pay for repairs? Would it even do anything bad? This would be moving it higher up by a couple of inches.

I was hoping to get answers from those who may have done this, so I know whether or not to risk the new hole/old hole line giving way and letting the bridge fly off.

Thanks.

jmercer91 · #2 12-26-2010, 01:33 PM

fill the holes with a dowel and then drill

Kadin · #3 12-26-2010, 01:38 PM

I wouldn't know how to do that or what the benefit would be, really. I have no repair experience.

stingray69 · #4 12-26-2010, 01:46 PM

Yeah, you'd probably want to fill the existing bridge holes if the new holes are that close to the old ones. Moving the bridge up or back will mess up the intonation or beyond the saddles range of movement to compensate for the skewed intonation - best to keep the G saddle at 34" (or 35", whatever your bass' scale length is currently).

As far as dowel rods, you can find wooden BBQ skewers at any Walmart - they're usually made of a hardwood like birch. They usually won't even dent when you dig a thumbnail into them as hard as you can. Certainly hard enough to fill the bridge holes, I use them a lot for this purpose - plus they are very inexpensive.

You may need a pocket knife or such to whittle them down to fit inside the existing holes, but they are very close to most hole sizes to begin with. Cut them to the depth you need, dab a little wood glue on them, push 'em down - done.

jmercer91 · #5 12-26-2010, 01:46 PM

you could cover some toothpicks in wood glue and jam em in the hole. clip off the part of the toothpick that's sticking out. wait a day for the glue to dry and then place the bridge next to it where you feel it should be

Kadin · #6 12-26-2010, 01:50 PM

So toothpicks and wood glue. That'll fill in the holes? And if I drill next to them (or half out of them, creating an "infinity" shaoe), will this make just as sturdy of a hold as normal?

I wish I could explain it better. I don't want the new drill holes to be so weak due to the original ones that the bridge just doesn't hold.

Pilgrim · #7 12-26-2010, 02:40 PM

Toothpicks will not work - they're not hard enough. You're correct, drilling next to existing holes will collapse the wood in between.

You MUST locate the bridge correctly for scale length or the instrument will be impossible to intonate. You cannot move the bridge closer to the bridge pickup - that changes the scale length and destroys your chance to ever intonate the bass.

The way to deal with the old holes is to drill them out to a diameter which matches hardwood dowel material you can buy at a craft or hardware store. I'd keep the diameter as small as possible while requiring you to drill the holes slightly larger - don't try to use the existing holes without drilling. You want a clean hole with smooth sides for this repair. Cut short lengths of the dowel to make plugs, then cut a groove up each side of each plug (groove location should be roughly 180 degrees apart).

Using Titebond or white glue, insert and tap the plugs into the holes. The groove cut up each side will allow excess glue (if any) to escape. It doesn't take a lot of glue, so don't go nuts with this.

Protect the finish with tape, then use a thin craft saw or hacksaw blade to cut off the plugs as close to level with the top as possible. Sand carefully to level them with the body.

Properly locate the bridge taking into account the scale length, left-right location to align the strings properly, and make sure it's level on the body. Mark and drill new holes, then mount the bridge, install strings and do a full setup.

This is the only way I know of to be sure that you'll have a proper repair and the bridge will be mounted well.

walterw · #8 12-26-2010, 02:45 PM

not to be a spoilsport, but why are you even doing all this? the original bridge is just as good, and you won't hear any difference once you did get the new one on.

rkingly · #9 12-26-2010, 02:50 PM

I'm with walterw seems a little futile.

Hi Walter.

Pilgrim · #10 12-26-2010, 03:13 PM

I was thinking exactly the same thing. If the original bridge is good, find another bass to do this with. You're buying trouble and work where there is no need to.

Kadin · #11 12-26-2010, 03:28 PM

The stirrups in the bridge are stripped, and the thing's been a general pain ever since I got the bass. I got the new bridge because it uses screwdrivers instead of hex wrenches.

Kadin · #12 12-26-2010, 03:58 PM

I'm gonna attempt Pilgrim's method, since it sounds effective and easy.

If the situation goes awry and I /need/ a new place for the bridge, could short scale strings work if I allocate the bridge to the appropriate length?

Pilgrim · #13 12-26-2010, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kadin

I'm gonna attempt Pilgrim's method, since it sounds effective and easy.

If the situation goes awry and I /need/ a new place for the bridge, could short scale strings work if I allocate the bridge to the appropriate length?

No, because the frets on the neck are placed for the current scale length. You'd have to find or build a short scale neck.

Best idea: get a replacement bridge that matches, or repair the current bridge. By "stirrups" in the bridge, I assume you mean the saddles. MUCH easier to just repair or replace the saddles and solve your problem.

This isn't "rocket surgery", but it does need to be done carefully. I hope you noted the comments about aligning the strings properly and getting it level on the body.

In other discussions of bridge work, there is information about how to place a non-OEM bridge so that you have the correct range of saddle adjustment.

My vote: replace the saddles, or if they use set screws which are stripped, replace the screws. If the saddle threads are stripped, drill and tap the saddles out a bit larger to use a larger diameter set screw. Why not try that first??

JLS · #14 12-27-2010, 01:30 PM

"Best idea: get a replacement bridge that matches, or repair the current bridge. By "stirrups" in the bridge, I assume you mean the saddles. MUCH easier to just repair or replace the saddles and solve your problem."

This would be my suggestion as well.

Kadin · #15 12-28-2010, 07:54 AM

Well, I didn't mean the saddle. The screws inside to raise/lower them is what I mean, and someone mentioned those were called "stirrups" once.

I'm going to attempt the dowel idea, and yes, I did take note of the string spacing. Since both bridges shared a common plug at the end relative to their sizes, I'm going to check if that's a proper way to get lined up. If not, I have measuring tools.

Thanks for the help, and I'm sorry I'm asking for advice on such an immature situation. I just want this bass back up and running with the parts I want. Hopefully I won't need to spend as much time just putting the new pickups and pots in (I'm getting someone to wire all of this stuff for me).

JLS · #16 12-28-2010, 09:11 AM

This means that you've tried to do all this, rather than replacing some allen screws. All 8 of them would have set you back less than $5.

You should consider letting someone who has experience, work on your instrument.

Kadin · #17 12-28-2010, 01:19 PM

I've wanted to replace all the parts of this bass for a couple of years now. I'm sorry you don't agree with my ideas.

Pilgrim · #18 12-28-2010, 02:46 PM

It's not disagreement with your ideas - we are TRYING to give you helpful advice on how to execute those ideas, and on alternatives.

The simplest way to make the bass perform well is to fix the hardware on it. If you don't want to do that, then you take on more work, and it's important that you do that work well. Your questions indicate you're in a learning curve about this whole thing, and some of the ideas we have helped you discard would have resulted in an unplayable instrument,.

Good luck with the parts you have - everything you want to do is probably do-able, (provided the string spacing on the replacement bridge is compatible with the pole spacing on the pickups), and I predict the learning will continue as you work through it.

James Judson · #19 12-28-2010, 02:57 PM

The toothpick method has worked for me hundreds of times. Don't know what planet Pilgrim is from. If Pilgrim is right you can still use the dowel method but the toothpick method is easy and cheap.

202dy · #20 12-28-2010, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by James Judson

The toothpick method has worked for me hundreds of times. Don't know what planet Pilgrim is from. If Pilgrim is right you can still use the dowel method but the toothpick method is easy and cheap.

The "toothpick method" will work only if the toothpicks will completely fill the existing holes. If they do not, there is a risk of the existing hole collapsing when the new hole is bored. That will not promote a strong connection.

It is rare that a toothpick has the girth to fill a bridge screw hole completely. Therefore, using dowel rod is the recommended procedure.

It is also good to remember that courtesy and respect are the hallmarks of the H,S,& R forum.