Bridge screws stripping wood

Legattabass · #1 02-09-2011, 06:26 AM

Last night I swapped bridges on my Fender MiM P Bass (Gotoh 201 was sounding too restrained and dead; turns out stock sounded a lot better). I found that 2-3 of the 5 screws did not seem to 'catch' in the wood anymore, and could slowly be rotated even after the screw heads were level with the bridge. I assume if I removed the bridge now, I'd find small wood shavings.

What is an acceptable method of repairing the stripped wood beneath the bridge? And will such repairs affect the sound of the bass?

fenderhutz · #2 02-09-2011, 06:37 AM

Toothpicks (round , not square preferred. Or tiny dowel rods if you have them handy). Wood Glue. Break off toothpick level with bass then dip into a tiny drop of wood glue, insert back into bass and put screws back in. Tighten screw snug and let it dry for about 24 hours. I would also just for grins put a tiny dab of wood glue on the screws that are tightening just to keep it snug. If and when you ever take it off it doesn't affect the screw getting stuck.

I had to do this as well on a Squier Classic Vibe when I switched bridges do to the soft Basswood body. Toothpicks work fine if you don't have the dowel rods.

sevenyearsdown · #3 02-09-2011, 06:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fenderhutz

Toothpicks. Wood Glue. Break off toothpick level with bass then dip into a tiny drop of wood glue, insert back into bass and put screws back in. Tighten screw snug and let it dry for about 24 hours. I would also just for grins put a tiny dab of wood glue on the screws that are tightening just to keep it snug. If and when you ever take it off it doesn't affect the screw getting stuck.

I had to do this as well on a Squier Classic Vibe when I switched bridges do to the soft Basswood body.

+1

Legattabass · #4 02-09-2011, 06:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fenderhutz

Toothpicks (round , not square preferred. Or tiny dowel rods if you have them handy). Wood Glue. Break off toothpick level with bass then dip into a tiny drop of wood glue, insert back into bass and put screws back in. Tighten screw snug and let it dry for about 24 hours. I would also just for grins put a tiny dab of wood glue on the screws that are tightening just to keep it snug. If and when you ever take it off it doesn't affect the screw getting stuck.

I had to do this as well on a Squier Classic Vibe when I switched bridges do to the soft Basswood body. Toothpicks work fine if you don't have the dowel rods.

Would any sanding be required afterward to make sure the bridge sits flat?

fenderhutz · #5 02-09-2011, 06:50 AM

Nope. Just make sure the toothpick isn't sitting high. You can break a little off if you aren't sure, it will still grab. When I insert the toothpick I usually lift it up a *tiny* bit and then break it off, just to make sure. Of course make sure the area where the bridge sits only has the ground wire and no bits floating around.

If you have other screws that tighten fine it's not crucial to let the glue set for 24 hours, but that's just my cautious side to keep the bridge from going a little crooked depending on what screws aren't working properly.

Legattabass · #6 02-09-2011, 06:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fenderhutz

Nope. Just make sure the toothpick isn't sitting high. You can break a little off if you aren't sure, it will still grab. When I insert the toothpick I usually lift it up a *tiny* bit and then break it off, just to make sure. Of course make sure the area where the bridge sits only has the ground wire and no bits floating around.

Also; these holes seem a little larger than a toothpick. Is this where dowels would come in handy?

If not dowels or a toothpick, would sawdust and wood glue work? I've heard that if you push the mix against the walls of the screw hole with a toothpick, into the threading itself, you can restore some material for the screw to secure itself.

fenderhutz · #7 02-09-2011, 06:55 AM

I also use this trick for strap buttons, I have yet to have one come loose.

fenderhutz · #8 02-09-2011, 06:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Legattabass

Also; these holes seem a little larger than a toothpick. Is this where dowels would come in handy?

If not dowels or a toothpick, would sawdust and wood glue work? I've heard that if you push the mix against the walls of the screw hole with a toothpick, into the threading itself, you can restore some material for the screw to secure itself.

Little larger is fine, you need room for the screw. You can always double fill the hole with a second toothpick. Won't hurt a thing if there is room.

Never done the sawdust fix, seemed too messy

The toothpick fix has always been more than sufficient.

C.Linton · #9 02-09-2011, 08:36 AM

Just be sure you understand, you don't need to completely fill the hole with toothpicks. You shouldn't need more than three at most. One or two should do the job. You're just basically replacing the little bit of wood that was lost when it got stripped.

Legattabass · #10 02-09-2011, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C.Linton

Just be sure you understand, you don't need to completely fill the hole with toothpicks. You shouldn't need more than three at most. One or two should do the job. You're just basically replacing the little bit of wood that was lost when it got stripped.

So I'd just be securing those toothpicks on the edge of the screw-holes so that theres secured wood for the screw threads to bite into? Even if the toothpicks do not "restore" the full circumference of the hole?

C.Linton · #11 02-09-2011, 08:40 AM

Yup, that's basically the idea.
Just one more tip as to how I do it. As fenderhutz said, insert the toothpick into the hole to measure it. I use my thumb nail to mark it. Take it out and break it(or cut it if with a hobby knife, if you're a neat freak) just below the mark made with your thumb nail. After applying a little glue (you don't need a whole lot)
TURN IT AROUND and insert it back into the hole WIDE END DOWN. This assures you have plenty of surface area for the screw to grip onto all the way down by matching the profile of the screw's shaft. I hope I made that clear.

Lublin · #12 02-09-2011, 08:43 AM

Perfect, fast, and easy fix.

Well written.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fenderhutz

Toothpicks (round , not square preferred. Or tiny dowel rods if you have them handy). Wood Glue. Break off toothpick level with bass then dip into a tiny drop of wood glue, insert back into bass and put screws back in. Tighten screw snug and let it dry for about 24 hours. I would also just for grins put a tiny dab of wood glue on the screws that are tightening just to keep it snug. If and when you ever take it off it doesn't affect the screw getting stuck.

I had to do this as well on a Squier Classic Vibe when I switched bridges do to the soft Basswood body. Toothpicks work fine if you don't have the dowel rods.

Legattabass · #13 02-09-2011, 10:20 AM

All right, last question.

Good glue for quick, strong adhesion?

JLS · #14 02-09-2011, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Legattabass

All right, last question.

Good glue for quick, strong adhesion?

IT. DOESN'T. MATTER!

Lublin · #15 02-09-2011, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Legattabass

All right, last question.

Good glue for quick, strong adhesion?

Elmer's wood glue will be fine.

Legattabass · #16 02-09-2011, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLS

IT. DOESN'T. MATTER!

THIS IS MADNESS!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lublin

Elmer's wood glue will be fine.

Thanks very much.

Legattabass · #17 02-09-2011, 02:30 PM

On the other hand, all of this is rendered unecessary by getting slightly longer or wider screws, correct?

C.Linton · #18 02-09-2011, 02:35 PM

No, that's not necessarliy a good idea, That would invlove drilling and the inherent possible mistakes that could bring (accidentally drilling the hole too deep/wide), as wel las having to buy the properly sized screws and drill bits. Best, easiest, quickest, and cheapest fix is the toothpick.

bassbenj · #19 02-09-2011, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C.Linton

No, that's not necessarliy a good idea, That would invlove drilling and the inherent possible mistakes that could bring (accidentally drilling the hole too deep/wide), as wel las having to buy the properly sized screws and drill bits. Best, easiest, quickest, and cheapest fix is the toothpick.

This is correct, except for the one word "best"! The "best" fix for any stripped out wood screws is to install threaded inserts and mount the bridge with machine screws. These will not strip and let you get as much tension as you want holding the bridge down.

Yes, it's a much bigger operation installing inserts than toothpicks, but it does work great. Truthfully I only did it once on my G&L and that is sort of a special case. As you may know they mount the bridge with only two screws and have a very bad habit of lifting off the body of the bass. People "fix" it by putting screws down the through-body string holes. The inserts fixed it forever no matter if you string through-body or from the bridge.

Fender-style bridges on the other hand usually have enough screws that just using the glue-toothpicks is fine. But I just wanted to add these comments to indicate that there is indeed a "better" way to deal with bridges.

C.Linton · #20 02-09-2011, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassbenj

This is correct, except for the one word "best"! The "best" fix for any stripped out wood screws is to install threaded inserts and mount the bridge with machine screws. These will not strip and let you get as much tension as you want holding the bridge down.

Yes, it's a much bigger operation installing inserts than toothpicks, but it does work great. Truthfully I only did it once on my G&L and that is sort of a special case. As you may know they mount the bridge with only two screws and have a very bad habit of lifting off the body of the bass. People "fix" it by putting screws down the through-body string holes. The inserts fixed it forever no matter if you string through-body or from the bridge.

Fender-style bridges on the other hand usually have enough screws that just using the glue-toothpicks is fine. But I just wanted to add these comments to indicate that there is indeed a "better" way to deal with bridges.

I don't necesssarily agree that inserts are inherently better. The only reason I can see for using inserts is if you like to take your bridge on and off a lot for whatever reason.
And, quite frankly, I would be concerned how it might affect the tone and/or sustain. It is an alternative to consider for sure, as long as you take how it might change the sound of your bass into consideration. Inserts are a modification, or upgrade if you will, that could change your bass's tone, toothpicks are a repair that won't alter the basic sound of your bass.